TH400 gutting
what he said!!!
best idea for that aluminum case TIME SERTS.
thanks warrjon
Hi Daim
Just had an idea!
If your broken bolts are not in the corners and maybe even if they are, have you considered drilling and tapping a brand new hole or holes
On either side of the ones that got broken?
Or even going with what you've got to see if it leaks or not
Just had an idea!
If your broken bolts are not in the corners and maybe even if they are, have you considered drilling and tapping a brand new hole or holes
On either side of the ones that got broken?
Or even going with what you've got to see if it leaks or not
Hi Daim
There is no known cure for that but unless you are going the Concourse route, it may not be worth the Candle at the end of the day
I'm a pretty obsessive person myself but having said that I do know when to stop but of course we are all different and so that's up to you
There is no known cure for that but unless you are going the Concourse route, it may not be worth the Candle at the end of the day
I'm a pretty obsessive person myself but having said that I do know when to stop but of course we are all different and so that's up to you
Still yet to do my TH400 Daim but I did strip and rebuild the 4L80E that is now in my XJRs. That is little more than a variant of the 400 and it was a piece of cake.
You just need to be methodical and patient and you won't have a problem. I do not recall any special tools being required.
You just need to be methodical and patient and you won't have a problem. I do not recall any special tools being required.
I'm very surprised at that, as there is a whole crate of special tools in the manual, It's Kent Moore J-39225. As a minimum you'd need the lip seal installer tools.
Just been though the Chevy forums. They recommend a pick, a couple of screwdrivers, a few sockets and a hammer. Lip seal tools aren't really special tools. I have loads of them here.
When you do swap the trans, don't forget to flush the trans cooler and lines and make sure they are CLEAN, mine were full of metal debris as was the trans pan.
Better still ditch the in rad cooler and add a front mounted cooler. The trans cooler in the Rad is on the HOT side totally the wrong place to put it. If you look at any car that has an in rad cooler it is always on the cool side of the rad, except the Jag.
Better still ditch the in rad cooler and add a front mounted cooler. The trans cooler in the Rad is on the HOT side totally the wrong place to put it. If you look at any car that has an in rad cooler it is always on the cool side of the rad, except the Jag.
Last edited by warrjon; Dec 22, 2017 at 02:33 PM.
Volvo is the same. They have the radiator on the hot side of the radiator on modes like the 700, 900 and even later P1 models.
The lines are all basically new, as they have been freshly galvanized. The radiator will be rebuilt, as it is basically dead and has been bodged with radweld.
The lines are all basically new, as they have been freshly galvanized. The radiator will be rebuilt, as it is basically dead and has been bodged with radweld.
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