how did you go about fabricating an intake for each carb?

 

adaptor plates, yep. You can get these from the guys mentioned, we used to chop up inlet manifolds. I left a workshop full of that stuff, thinking about it I could have helped but it's well over 10 years ago now. I was young and daft, once you've built a Jag V12 from scratch for power, you really don't fancy doing another - it's still the most complicated mass production engine ever built....but a true great.
I'll try and find some pics of the ones I've done. I've no digital pictures, it was before the digital age.

 

Id love some pics.

i saw the webber manifolds. each one of those costs about as much as a new turbo.

 

Sean,
You mentioned that you had a 5.7 that produced 415BHP. In todays’ dollars, what would it take to do that again? Could you give me a few of the major mods that were done to get you there?
Chris

 

Sure Chris,
From memory it used flat heads, pre HE, with bigger valves.
Bigger displacement liners with Ford Transit van pistons to get us to 5.7lt
The throttle bodies machined out, with new spindles/butterflies.
The 16CU ECU went to AJ6 Engineering to cure a delay in throttle pedal response.
We also used 6.0lt injectors from a JaguarSport unit. Although another trick is to use two sets of AJ6 injectors.
A free flow s.s.exhaust, I think 2.5" straight through.
Maybe not a fair fight, but a friend showed up with a brand new XKR Silverstone, the only UK supplied car in Black, and it ate it for lunch, I'll always remember the supercharger whine fade into the background. A lighter car in the E Type, it walked away.


Here's a shot of the 6.1 lay-up, pre build. Nice thing about this is the modem telemetry - I can alter the mapping on track. Again installed in an E Type. 550bhp standard, 650bhp without issue.



Final shot is of another V12 5.7 with custom installed deep case 5 speed, with an aluminium flywheel. Harvey Bailey torsion bars, Koni adjustable dampers, AP racing brakes, with custom Dayton SS wheels. Nothing really standard about what we did to these cars, including leather hood tonneu's, the list goes on, retro-development, in a little workshop somewhere....

 

what trans is that?

 

Sean,
Great information. I was hoping to take my '88 5.3 and with some mods get about 400 Hp out of it. I considered twin turbos, but my preference was always to get there NA. Would it be hard to get there with the HE heads?
Chris

 

Hi Chris

The Jag is not a cheap engine to get power from apart from having to buy 12 of everything, go fast bits from Jag specialists are very expensive. Having said that if you are handy and DIY there are some inexpensive mods that can improve the power output of the engine.

Without spending mega $$$$ or forced induction
The 5.3 is probably good for around 350-380hp
Aftermarket ECU and upgrade to distributorless ignition
Intake mods - bore the throttle bodies or find TB's from a local vehicle that will substitute. Open out the air filter inlets.
Exhaust downpipe back in 2 or 2.25". Being an 88 yours might have a 2" center section already.

If rebuilding the engine thats another story limited depending on budget.

cheers
Warren

 

I am finding the difficult part is not having the vast amount of performance data to pull from as is typical for domestic applications. I build headers for a living, so the twin turbo scenario looks appealing just from the stand point of feasibility, but I prefer NA. I was talking to the people at Ross pistons last week at SEMA at they said since the demand for the V12 pistons is limited, so they don’t stock them. That being said, they build them per customers order and can configure the piston design to meet the customers’ needs. Is it possible to get that 400+ HP goal by increasing the bore, different cam grind, headers, fabricated intake and aftermarket TBs?

 

if i was gonna either bore or stroke, i would just stroke it. it would be a lot cheaper and a lot less work, unless you wanted to do a total rebuild anyways.

and then i would port and polish the heads while i had them off.

 

Stroking it requires either changing the rods for shorter ones or changing the piston pin height in other words the pistons. The 6.0L uses different pistons.

Much easier to bore it. Max over bore on stock liners is 93.5mm. Paeco do a stroker kit and it is on special for $1600US with exchange crank http://www.paeco.com/Internet%20Specials.htm

If you go down this road I would suggest having the crank modified for a lip seal.

Going 93mm will yield 5.7L should be good for 400-420hp, there are a couple running around here in Aus with Holden I6 pistons making this HP. Just find a local piston with the right dimensions, buy them with no pin hole and have them machined.

 

i mean, if you stroked it out, you wouldnt even have to pull the motor out of the car. drop the trans, hoist the motor up enough to get the crank out, and pull the pistons and rods up through once youve got the head off. send the crank off to have it offset ground, reinstall crank and bolt the mains back up then insert shorter pistons and longer rods. all new bearings of course. reinstall heads. i mean, im not sure what a shop would charge to modify the crank, but i cant imagine its much more than they would charge to bore the block, which would require a total engine rebuild.

 

I know one of the Jag specialists here bore the liners as it is cheaper than offset grinding the crank. It may be different in the USA

The pistons and liners are removed without removing the engine and bored out of the block. The crank and rods are not removed. In a Jag V12 the pistons can be removed with the engine in the car, once the liners are removed (slip fit liners) the pistons can be removed as they have a floating pin.

 

so how are you planning on getting an L32 PCM to power your Jag. i cant even get one to run my L67.

 

Did I say L32 I meant L36 just a typo Australia never got the L32

Run dual L36 ECU's with 2 VR sensors mounted 60° apart, but I have not yet decided between the Megasquirt or Delco. Benefit of the Delco is the readily available parts, they are cheap and almost every tuning shop in Aus has facility to remap them on a dyno.

The Megasquirt runs dual Ford EDIS6 but Aus never got the stand alone EDIS6 so I would have import parts from UK or US.

 

The L36 and L67 PCM's are exactly the same and you can find and tune them VERY easily with the right software.
i did a quick google on VR sensors. how do those apply to your build? whats their function?

 

My car already has a VR sensor as it came from the factory with Marelli electronic ignition. My plan is to ditch the Marelli distributor and use 6 L67/36 coil packs.

 

Geez...I remember when all I had to do was set the points in my old Pontiac with a screw driver and a matchbook.
Times have changed...lol

 

ok, well be warned, the MSD coil packs SUCK!!!!! theyre junk, i wouldnt touch them with a 10 foot pole. AC delcos are great, but expensive. duralast or the generic part store brand are fine.

and depending on which l67/l36 PCM you get, there are some differences. 98-02 pontiacs, chevy, buick, oldsmobile are all the same. but youll probably be getting them off of the Ausie equivalent.

 

so, the price is falling like a hammer on my dream jag (had my eye on it for 9 months).

so i had a couple questions. can the ignition timing be advanced or retarded by turning the distributor like ony older V8's and such? if so, im seriously considering going to a carb'd setup. Twin holley 750 4brls. ive got this idea that i can grind down the manifolds so that a couple of carbs would sit, airtight on top. then i want to block off the TB's, and rig up a throttle system. the carb's would be mounted in the red areas.

any input would be greatly appreciated as to the feasability, bonnet clearance, ignition timing, etc. also, are the intake manifolds aluminum, steel, or cast iron?