Wiring Diagram Help - Door Locks
#1
Wiring Diagram Help - Door Locks
I've attached my proposed fix for the door lock problem I am experiencing.
The actuator keeps firing, as seen on the YouTube video:
It only does it on the passenger side. I have disconnected the actuator from the lock linkage, swapped out actuators, replaced the PD5 connector, including pins at the door, have swapped out the Door Lock Control Unit, and have tried bypassing the length of wire between PD13 and PD5. All with no luck.
Now I will try to splice into the wires leaving the Door Lock Control Unit and splice them to the wires just before they leave for the door, just past PD13. I will then cut the wires just before the new splice.
I have to assume that one of the splice points has gone bad? (LBS68-72?) The splices exist somewhere inaccessible, so I won't be able to find them.
I was concerned that this action would create new problems. Any suggestions??
Thanks!
Perhaps a short somewhere?
The actuator keeps firing, as seen on the YouTube video:
It only does it on the passenger side. I have disconnected the actuator from the lock linkage, swapped out actuators, replaced the PD5 connector, including pins at the door, have swapped out the Door Lock Control Unit, and have tried bypassing the length of wire between PD13 and PD5. All with no luck.
Now I will try to splice into the wires leaving the Door Lock Control Unit and splice them to the wires just before they leave for the door, just past PD13. I will then cut the wires just before the new splice.
I have to assume that one of the splice points has gone bad? (LBS68-72?) The splices exist somewhere inaccessible, so I won't be able to find them.
I was concerned that this action would create new problems. Any suggestions??
Thanks!
Perhaps a short somewhere?
#2
#3
Thank you for your response, I was beginning to think I wasn't going to get one.
The wiring diagram shows one wire leaving the DLCM for each of the two locks. (Wires are spliced down the line) If the drivers side door actuator is fine, and only the passengers is affected, can't I eliminate a problem with the DLCM. (I also bought a second one, and it did not change anything)
I have a plan:
1. short the Orange/Blue and Orange/Red from the DLCM right to the PD13 connector. Those are the only two wires that contain an additional splice from the Security System. It happens to be the Lock/Unlock Input wires. I'll see if that's not the problem.
2. Undo #1 and do the same for the Orange/White and Orange/Green wires, which are the Lock/Unlock Output wires.
3. Redo #1 with #2 in place.
4. If needed - do the same with the Ground.
The wiring diagram shows one wire leaving the DLCM for each of the two locks. (Wires are spliced down the line) If the drivers side door actuator is fine, and only the passengers is affected, can't I eliminate a problem with the DLCM. (I also bought a second one, and it did not change anything)
I have a plan:
1. short the Orange/Blue and Orange/Red from the DLCM right to the PD13 connector. Those are the only two wires that contain an additional splice from the Security System. It happens to be the Lock/Unlock Input wires. I'll see if that's not the problem.
2. Undo #1 and do the same for the Orange/White and Orange/Green wires, which are the Lock/Unlock Output wires.
3. Redo #1 with #2 in place.
4. If needed - do the same with the Ground.
Last edited by Vee; 05-14-2015 at 12:02 PM.
#4
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