XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Would you swap your Inboard IRS for one with Outboard Brakes

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Old 07-22-2015, 03:56 PM
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Default Would you swap your Inboard IRS for one with Outboard Brakes

Would you swop your Inboard IRS for one with Outboard Brakes.

Reasons for why or why not, would be interesting.
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:46 PM
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I do not see where you would gain anything. The effort to do the swap would be about equal to the effort to recondition the inboard brakes, and all you would get is increased unsprung weight, and a non original rear end and brakes.
Why would you want to do it? I suppose if I had a worn out inboard brake rear end, and a perfectly good outboard brake rear end I might, just because I am cheap, er, thrifty.
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:05 PM
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No. Fix what you have - much like lumping. False economy.
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:53 PM
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The key advantage to the outboard brakes is easier service and repair.....and it certainly is easier, no doubt.

But.....

It's not like the brakes require overhaul twice a year or something. Most older Jags do not see constant use. You could grit your teeth and overhaul the inboard brakes ......and it would be *years and years* before you needed to look at 'em again.

Yeah, it would be nice but I wouldn't go thru any great efforts to accomplish it. It's a cure for which there is no disease.

Put the money and effort elsewhere, IMHO

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug
The key advantage to the outboard brakes is easier service and repair.....and it certainly is easier, no doubt.

But.....

It's not like the brakes require overhaul twice a year or something. Most older Jags do not see constant use. You could grit your teeth and overhaul the inboard brakes ......and it would be *years and years* before you needed to look at 'em again.

Yeah, it would be nice but I wouldn't go thru any great efforts to accomplish it. It's a cure for which there is no disease.

Put the money and effort elsewhere, IMHO

Cheers
DD
Cheers Doug

I take your point but I'm wishing I had outboard Brakes at the moment, so much easier for things like bleeding the brakes.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Dleit53
I do not see where you would gain anything. The effort to do the swap would be about equal to the effort to recondition the inboard brakes, and all you would get is increased unsprung weight, and a non original rear end and brakes.
Why would you want to do it? I suppose if I had a worn out inboard brake rear end, and a perfectly good outboard brake rear end I might, just because I am cheap, er, thrifty.
I didn't know that there was any difference in weight but they are so much easier to Service.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Flint Ironstag
No. Fix what you have - much like lumping. False economy.
If I ever manage to fix my brakes, I'd probably agree.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Dleit53
I do not see where you would gain anything. The effort to do the swap would be about equal to the effort to recondition the inboard brakes, and all you would get is increased unsprung weight, and a non original rear end and brakes.
Why would you want to do it? I suppose if I had a worn out inboard brake rear end, and a perfectly good outboard brake rear end I might, just because I am cheap, er, thrifty.

I agree totally, the original is an excellent set up once reconditioned, I did mine 20 years ago and apart routine servicing, changing mounts and pads, it will give years of good reliable service, all you will gain is not having to lay on your back to change the pads, also remote bleeders make this a lot easier, I did look into it and it was not at all cost effective.


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Old 07-23-2015, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeblossom
I didn't know that there was any difference in weight but they are so much easier to Service.
Probably very little difference in weight but inboard are not unsprung weight, out board are.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:38 AM
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Nope.

If the handbrake etc need attention at this time and space, remove the cardle, DO IT ALL, and I mean ALL. Then main pad changes every few years, fluid bleed every 2, and think about it all again in 20 years, if you and the car are still in luv with each other.

I, too, looked at it, and dismissed it in a heartbeat.

I looked at remote bleeders, and a top idea, and are still on the "to do list".

I use the time on my back when changing the pads to look over the rubber componets in the area, and note damage etc.

It is not that hard to live with the current system, and I do agree that bleeding is a mongrel, and the ABS cars are probably more of a contributor to the "mongrel" word than the non ABS cars.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:57 AM
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I've never heard of Remote Bleeders, where can I get some!
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
Probably very little difference in weight but inboard are not unsprung weight, out board are.
That is interesting, I never thought of that!
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Nope.

If the handbrake etc need attention at this time and space, remove the cardle, DO IT ALL, and I mean ALL. Then main pad changes every few years, fluid bleed every 2, and think about it all again in 20 years, if you and the car are still in luv with each other.

I, too, looked at it, and dismissed it in a heartbeat.

I looked at remote bleeders, and a top idea, and are still on the "to do list".

I use the time on my back when changing the pads to look over the rubber componets in the area, and note damage etc.

It is not that hard to live with the current system, and I do agree that bleeding is a mongrel, and the ABS cars are probably more of a contributor to the "mongrel" word than the non ABS cars.
Hi Grant

'Mongrel' was not one of those Words that I was using today! When Bleeding the Brakes.

But I get your point and I agree with what you say.

So now I'm off for a Test Drive, after my Woes with the ABS and hope to get back in one piece.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:15 AM
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Change for racing, just for the ease of work during races. Otherwise a very good system, just a pain sometimes when there are problems and you do not have a lift.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jagfixer
Change for racing, just for the ease of work during races. Otherwise a very good system, just a pain sometimes when there are problems and you do not have a lift.
I've got a lift but its got a broken XJS stuck on it, so that's then next one to fix.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:23 AM
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Yes, the idea was to reduce unspring weight. Those outboard discs are heavy. They must be controlled. At the end of a lever, it is magnified.


Easier to service. Definitely. But, once in top shape, the inboards should not need
attention for many miles and many years.


Mongrel???? Borg Warner transmission. Lucas electrics, GM Ac compressor and power steering. Differential of Saginaw of Dana origin, and the list goes on!!!


Coco and I went to market yesterday. Jeep,Jaguar not completely ready for the road.
Nice little dog in the car alongside. it's owners came put at about that time. I complimented them on the cute little dog. She, "Thank you, he is an Australian Shepherd, what kind is yours?" Me "Dog". she laughed, "that's a good one".


Coco does look like an Australian Shepherd, but only sort of. More like spaniel under pinnings with a German Shepherd topside. About 30 pounds.


Were I to inherit an OB disc IRS in top shape and mine needed a lot of work, I'd swap. O'wise, it doesn't leak or make noise and ahs a reconditioned set of calipers. so, it will stay that way.


Lumps ain't done for economy, although MPG is usually better.


That PP thing agin.


Carl
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:15 PM
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Outboard brakes keep the heat away from the diff seals so they last longer.
Apparently.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug
It's a cure for which there is no disease.
Well, there IS that little theory of the heat generated by the inboard brakes being responsible for causing the axle seals on the diff to fail at a higher rate (although the culprit is just as likely to be the exhaust pipes routed through the cage in that same area, if not a combination of the two).

There is also greater leeway for using larger, vented rotors and better, multi-piston calipers with outboard brakes...assuming that you also plan to run a larger diameter rim.

Outboard brakes likely run much cooler than inboard brakes, and they are definitely easier to run ductwork to, should your driving style require the additional cooling.

Although downplayed, it has already been mentioned that outboards are infinitely easier to service.

Unsprung weight on the front axle is crucial because of it's affect on steering response and handling. However, unsprung weight on the rear axle of a car in this weight range is really inconsequential, especially when you consider that 99% of XJS owners never drive their cars anywhere near their handling limits.

Aside from that, the car looks downright odd when you put wheels on it that have a very open spoke pattern, allowing a clear view of everything inboard of the wheel. Compared to cars with outboard brakes, it just looks like something is missing.

I'm not saying that I would do the conversion, because it's a major pain in the ***, but, the idea does hold quite an appeal for me every time I'm on my back under my cars, doing something that involves the rear brakes, or differential.
 

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Old 07-23-2015, 02:21 PM
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For the average guy, OB's because f service ease have a slight edge.


For competition, not so much. I'm thinking FI, Indy, Transam, etc, IB's are superior.
Pad change during a race not a usual thing. Wheel control is a huge thing. Big tires add to the issue.


Side bar. Sans cage, an IB Jag based IRS in an open car just looks supreme.




Love the tech of an IB . Hate the tech of the "emergency brake"!!!!


Carl
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeblossom
I've never heard of Remote Bleeders, where can I get some!


try Ward engineering Colchester, although there are better ones that take two bleeders into one nipple
 
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