XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

XJS 1994 2+2 Rear Calipers repair

  #1  
Old 12-06-2015, 03:21 PM
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Default XJS 1994 2+2 Rear Calipers repair

Hi!
Well, I'm in the process of repair/renewing the rear calipers on
my wife's 94 XJS 2+2.
Boy, are they a mess!
I have both calipers off and the brake shoes hardly look worn.
But, the wheels are very warm, almost hot to touch after a 1/3 mile
run up my neighborhood.
So, I'm thinking I also have a parking/emergency brake issue.
Fortunately, the 94 has outboard brakes and easier to access
than the previous years.

I am at the point where I have to remove the brake disc/drum and the
big axle hub nut is rusted up. I've been dousing the nut with all kinds
of penetrating oil to loosen the rusted parts.
I'm using a 1-1/8 socket at present. I really need a 27mm socket.
I'm making my local parts store rich I think.
Both sides hub nut are frozen on so far and I still have to remove
those huge phillips screw in the brake hubs
Another day of soaking the hub nuts.

While waiting I have brake calipers rubber seal kits coming for the
refurb of the brake cylinders.
I haven't found reasonably priced rebuilt calipers on line yet.
So, the DIY repair is on the list of things to do.

I just got the brake hoses. Wooo Hooo!

I will be using my wire wheel and rust remover to tidy up the calipers
before doing the rubber seals.

I tried to push out the brake fluid in the rear caliper lines and got nothing. Hmmm. Do I have a blockage of some sort in the rear brake line?
The parts diagrams show just 1 brake line going from the Master cylinder to a splitter into 2 lines going to the rear calipers.
This keeps getting better and better.

I will posts some pics as soon as I remember where I put my camera down.

I see the emojies on the right. There's one for "RTFM".
I want one that says "RTFAQs" as a better source of info.

Gotta clean up my work area now. It's getting dark here in
Snellville, GA. Nice 60+ temp today and sunny.
Will continue the effort tomorrow.

P O R - Press On Regardless
 
  #2  
Old 12-06-2015, 05:11 PM
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scarbro2011,

You don't remove the hub nut to remove the rear discs!

After removing the philips screw, the disc just pulls off. However, you may need to align and then reach through the access hole and back off the handbrake shoe adjuster first.

Read through the workshop manual. It's all explained clearly.

Good luck

Paul
 
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2015, 09:25 AM
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If, after removing the small screws as Paul directed, you can't pull the discs off of the hubs you may have to use a slide hammer to remove them. I had the right side hand brake shoes on my '95 hang up and the only tool that could get the rotors off was my slide hammer.
 
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Old 12-07-2015, 03:39 PM
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Thanks for the heads up, PTJS1 !
After the penetrating oil bath, I saw that the disc was indeed separate from
the hub shaft. Oh well, I now have a much needed 27MM socket
I will use my impact philips screwdriver to remove the screws.
I may need another 24 hrs of penetrating oil soak on them.

P O R - Press On Regardless
 
  #5  
Old 12-08-2015, 05:07 AM
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Scarbro:


Small world, one of my female relations married a guy named snell. she makes a big point of the name??? Trouble is with so manmy, I forgot which one!!!


Somewhere in my tool boxes I have a selection of drivers with 3/8 socket heads. Phillips included. So, with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, I could use my electric impact. It did what my hammer drive screwdriver could not do!!! Not on my jaguar, but on an old spoke shave I am restifying.


Way back when, the brake drums on my FJ40 were solidly in place by PHillips and rust, lots of it. Crude method did it. I used a sharp chisel and one of my BFH's. Whacked the head right off. Not really needed there. may have been an assembly line convenience. I just ignored the stubs and all went back together just fine. A weird two cylindered system. All frozen... took all of a Sunday PM to get it working again. I needed the car to go to the train station then next AM!!


Carl
 
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:39 AM
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scarbro2011,

I think the Philips screw will just come off fine without soaking. They don't really do anything and aren't under tension. My discs don't even have them.

Remember to line up the access hole with the adjuster. Because you may well need to back off the adjuster and then the disc should just wiggle off. You may need to put the wheels back on in order to turn the disc to line up the adjuster.

Good luck

Paul
 
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2015, 07:00 AM
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Thanks for the info JagCad !
I use to live down the road in Concord, Ca back in the late 70's.
Interesting area. Hated the commute into downtown SF.

I will have to use some sort of persuader on the phillips screws as they
don't budge. Even with my large phillips screwdriver. So, some sort of
impact driver will be required.

I did find the info for the rear brakes for a 94 2+2 in the CD appendix.
I haven't done the JTIS cd load yet. The Windows 10 update really upset
a lot of the new JTIS loading methods for my system.

P O R - Press On Regardless

P O R - Press On Regardless
 
  #8  
Old 12-11-2015, 11:33 AM
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I have finally gotten the phillips screw off. I had to use a impact wrench to loosen it.
I had to use a wooden block to pound on in order to get the rotors off.
The penetrating oils did help somewhat.
Boy, were they pitted. I took them to be resurfaced and was told they were
too thin. Way pass the allowed resurfacing thickness.
The rotors have a 8.8MM stamped on them for minimum thickness.
One was 8.7mm and the other was 8.6mm. Bummer.

Found replacement slotted units at RockAuto for $19.xx plus $10 shipping.
Also ordered parking brake shoes. One set on the passenger side was broken
up.

I have to wait (3-5 days) for the parking brake shoes and the rotors now.
I refurbed the calipers with new rubber gaskets. Fortunately they were not
pitted or groved.

I think I'll paint the caliper exterior with High Temp paint.
A lot of wire brushing will be required to get rusty layers off.
Maybe a nice gold or bronze color. I don't consider "Rust" to be a valid color
choice.

P O R - Press On Regardless !
 
  #9  
Old 12-17-2015, 07:58 AM
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I got the parts from the PartsGeek parts finder menu for 94 - 96 XJS parking brake shoes and found on arrival they were the wrong shoes (pn 081-3197).

RockAuto Parts got the correct shoes for Jaguar # JLM2209 (Centric # CE 111.08260). About $26 including shipping. Don't know where Jaguar gets
$400+ for brake shoes is a fair price.

Spent 3 hours getting one of the brake hoses off. Really hard to get to unless
the car is about 2ft off the ground. You can not do it from outside the car.
You gotta get under it.
One of these days I'm going to get a 2 post car lift.
I have one more brake line to replace and then replace the brake shoes,
install the rotors, assemble the calipers, bleed the brakes and put the wheels back on and then test.
Now I know why the XJS rear brake replacement jobs cost so much. Yech !
But, I love it because it is on a XJS !

P O R - Press On Regardless
 
  #10  
Old 12-20-2015, 11:57 AM
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Scarbro2011,

Well done on the job!

The incorrect parts number for the rear shoes is very typical. I would say that over 50% of the motor factors here in the UK quote that wrong number. I think the problem started many years ago and has perpetuated through the industry.

The weird Jaguar price is because their original supplier has stopped production and their "new" supplier is quoting a ridiculous price. It will come back to normal when they source a better supplier. Unofficially, they will tell you to buy the shoes from elsewhere!

Cheers

Paul
 
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:56 PM
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Bob:


A great motivator !!!! Ala Admiral Farragut, "full steam ahead, dam. the torpedoes"!!


My dear departed and I moved here in 75. before that we lived and worked in the LA area. The freeway commute there got the best of me.


So, when a promotion away from the HO to a branch office in the financial district of SF was offered, I took it. BARTD was an incentive.
And distance from HO politics!!! Win/win.


After a search for a home, we found the Saranap area of WC. Short drive or longish walk to WC BART.


Worked fine, most of the time. Except when the unions had a hissy and went on strike. Work around found. I'll never forgive them.


Carl
 
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:58 PM
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My office closed in 84. BART only on occasion. Otherwise back to the freeway fight in many directions.


Timing of extreme import.


Retired in 75. Done, fifty years in insurance claims, enough.


Carl
 
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:23 PM
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Another delay due to wrong part. This time it is sort of my fault.
I had ordered vented rotors for the rear. Unfortunately, the calipers
support bracket has a groove that is not wide enough for the vented brake rotor
thickness. The rear rotor/drum pn: CAC9351.
I found a replacement rotor set at ROCKAUTO for $14.95 per rotor + $16.50
shipping.
I did paint the calipers with the high temp paint (Bronze). Better than rust color.

I still have 1 more rear brake hose to replace. The penetrating fluid is working
after a 2 day soak.
I also have to replace 3 of the lug nuts. Expensive little buggars. About $10.00
per lug nut on the online stores. The problem is finding the correct versions
at the regular auto parts stores.
These are the Lattice wheel lug nuts (Mag Wheel shaft style lug nuts). Acorn style
lug nuts will not work properly. I think Jag# CCC7030 was the number I saw.



8.8mm minimum rotor thickness - this one was 8.7mm.





P O R - Press On Regardless
 
  #14  
Old 01-03-2016, 05:34 PM
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WOW! I have started the New Year with the rear brakes on my Wife's 1994 XJS 2+2 finally done!!
I had a moment (actually several hours) of panic when the drivers side brake rotor
would not fit. The brake shoe was acting like it was too thick. The passenger side
rotor went on with no problems and it adjusted properly.
The driver side brake shoe problem turned out to be the brake shoe pull actuator that
attaches to the brake lever cable has a small pin that it rotates on. This small pin
wiggled out and jammed the actuator mechanism. This kept the brake shoe in a
"full on" mode expanding the brake shoes out to their maximum width.
Resetting this small pin took about an hour to maneuver it back into place and adjust
the brake cable properly.

I also had to replace 5 of the wheel lugnuts (CCC7029 - I think). I was able to get
the right lugnuts for $5 apiece at my local Classic Jaguar parts supplier,
Coventry West. These were used pieces. You can buy new ones for $10.00.
Call them to get the used lugnuts. The website only shows the new ones.

The Parking Brake now engages properly and the "Brake" lamp on the console is
now extinguished. What, now after 2 years?

I am waiting on new carpet/mats now. Another thread perhaps?
Anyway, I'm happy to have another item on the "She who must be obeyed" list done.

Happy Trails and P O R - Press On Regardless
 
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Retired in 75. Done, fifty years in insurance claims, enough.
Let's say you were ten years old when you started doing
insurance claims.

So, 60 in 1975. That would make you 100 today!
 
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