Does anyone have any experience changing the hood cable that is between the drivers side hood latch and the lever underneath the passenger dash? Mine snapped when closing the hood right at the handle. I have a replacement ordered.

Any guidance or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

The only real difficulty is getting the new cable threaded though the firewall (bulkhead). It is best to remove the trim below the dash so you can see what is what. You may also need to remove whatever is on top of the latch itself in the engine bay (the washer bottle on my model) so you can get to the latch to install the cable nipple into it.

The lever end of the cable does not have a nipple, it fits into a 'solderless nipple' on the lever mechanism (ie a hole with a small screw that traps the cable enabling it to be adjusted to the correct length). Beware of installing it so the cable is too tight when latched, as that will break it again in a short time.

The entire mechanism, including the two latches on the firewall, should move quite easily when used on its own without the hood being closed. If it does not, then the tension on the cable that runs across the firewall to activate the second latch can be adjusted a bit using the same solderless nipple arrangement - this time on the solderless nipple on the lever-activated latch that connects to the other latch across the firewall.

 

Awesome thanks for the reply. I don't believe there is anything blocking mine and it looks like the best course of action will be to remove the hood latch assembly on the drivers side, remove the old cable, feed the new cable, attach it at the lever end, and finally adjust. Does this sound about right?

 

Sounds fine. It can be a bit hard to get to the latch fixings, so just check you can get to them all before you undo the easy ones! You may be able to slip out the old cable nipple out without unbolting the latch. Also, if the outer is OK, you might just be able to slip the new inner down the existing outer, which will make the whole thing a bit easier too.

Good hunting
Greg

 

If the cable breaks under the hood, or comes out of a nipple, how could you get the hood unlatched, it being closed at the time?
RagJag

 

It snapped when I was closing it, not after it had completely closed.

It was only about a 1/3 of the way shut when the cable snapped. Immediately after I pulled the hood open with my hands.

 

The latches are sprung. They open as soon as cable tension is removed, either by opening the lever, or by the cable breaking! The cables pull them closed, they cannot 'push' them open!

Greg

 

Mine are not that way. The cable has to be pulled from under the dash to open the hood. At least it seems that way to me. Is the 1996 different?
RagJag.

 

On my 1993 when you push the handle forward (away from you) it releases the tension on the cable and then the hood latches spring open. When you pull it back towards you the cable pulls the latches closed and the hood down and shut.

 

Are you sure the cable snapped, and not just the plastic handle? You can get the handle at any ford dealer...Same as a mondeo, and many others, I'm sure. Part # is on the handle.

Dave
Atlanta

 

Scribble, my '96 definitely has the handle being pulled toward you to unlock the latches. My question was because of this system. If your cable breaks I don't see any way to go up under the hood from below to get to the latches. Has anybody had this happen?
RagJag.

 

I believe that the direction of the pull on the handle is perhaps misleading. Unless the facelifts bonnets' (hoods) are secured differently (could be), the cable can be released either by pulling a lever or by pushing it back, just depending upon how the lever and its fulcrum are configured. On my HE the lever is pushed to release the latches, and pulled to close them. If the lever mechansim were changed on the facelifts (eg to that on my Ford Mondeo) then it could be that the latches are released by apparently pulling and set by apparently pushing. But the principle of the cable being released does not change unless the latching mechanism itself has changed on the facelifts.

The resistance I feel when releasing the lever (by pushing it in my case) is the resistence of pushing the lever 'over centre'. This is how the lever mechanism stays in the shut position, it goes over-centre, so the cable tension is effectively pulling the lever shut still. If it did not then the hood would pop open as soon as you let go of the lever, or unless a secondary lever-locking mechanism was installed.

If you lock your hood by pushing the lever away from you, then it is just the lever mechanism is reversed, but otherwise identical. If the hood locks some other way (eg by slamming it shut as on most cars) then you really do have a different mechanism.

Greg

 

Late facelifts are different. We have a (gentle) slam shut type bonnet. And a plastic pull handle to release. Whereas the earlier cars have a handle that latches the bonnet closed, and unlatches it open.

Dave
Atlanta

 

Thanks Dave. Goodness knows how you open them in this case!

Greg

 

Yes, goodness knows and aparently nobody else. I have to push down on the hood one corner at a time to get the latches to engage. They are spring loaded with a catch to lock them. Pulling the cable by the underdash lever unlatches them. I would have thought someone, by now, would have had a cable break or slip loose and been forced to devise a way to get the hood open.
I am tempted to purchase a set of latches that have keys to unlock them as some custom cars do. Neat chrome ones without the post sticking up with a cotter key-like thing as race cars use.
I will probably wait until it is too late though. If it ain't broke don't fix it deal.
RagJag

 

My first thought was what happens if the cable slips out of the actuator? To correct this fault, Hardware stores sell various size metal stops that are about 1/2X1/4 that have two holes. You slip the excess cable through one hole and do a 180 degree reverse and put the cable in the second hole. Then squeeze it shut with vice grips (Squeezing may not be necessary) Total time for fix a couple of minutes'

If you are really concerned, a backup cable similar to gas tank door might be in order

 

As mentioned, the late XJS bonnet release mechanism is quite different. The best solution thst I've seen as to open the bonnet if the cable snaps is by undoing the bonnet from the front and then releasing the pin plates from the rear. See here:

http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1658669o33

Paul

 

i think i mentioned this in a previous post, but...

on my '91 pre-facelift XJS, the cable that goes from the engine compartment into the footwell snapped. (my use of the handle was a little too vigorous)

i replaced the cable with a bicylce spoke.
i cut the bent end off of the spoke with a set of snippers,
squeezed a bit of jb weld onto the threaded end (to keep the end piece from unscrewing itself),
slid the cut end into the hole in the engine compartment,
pulled it taught with pliers in the footwell,
and screwed it tight into the handle mechanism.

cheapest fix on the car to date.

 

Cable Tip
If iou have trouble threading the cable into the retaining part, take a small piece of elecrical shrink insulation and insert the end of the cable in the insulation and heat.The insulation will drink and compress the cable

 

For: DrScientist
Great Idea!
I understand the consept, but am confused on the execution. You get a bicycle spoke ; one end is bent and you cut the bend off. The other end has an adjustment thread. You take the cut end and thread it through the latch and then into the cabin to the handle. The screw end is up on the latch.
This is where I need the help. 1. How did you attach it to the handle? 2. Did you use a cable stop on the handle end?