XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

2007 XKR needs help

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  #21  
Old 11-19-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Teddy3333
I replaced the battery 3 months ago, I will replace the fuel filter, is it safe for the car to run to circulate the injector cleaner, and if it is, how long should I let it run?
As is commonly quoted on this forum, a "new battery" does not come fully charged. They sit on the shelf and should be charged before use or in your case, checked as NBCat suggests, then charged. Check the VOLTAGE.

You still don't have enough information. The engine shut itself down. Don't ignore that. gkubrak just posted a page from the manual with one of your codes on it. Note it points to possibly a full filter, among other things, including injectors. On your model year, it's a fairly easy change.

FYI - Follow and always heed the advice of a Tech on this forum (in this case NBCat). They are real technicians and know what they're talking about. Execute the fuel pressure test as he suggested and check the battery voltage. FYI, you have to run the engine to test the fuel pressure so you will be running your injector cleaner through.
 
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  #22  
Old 11-19-2019, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Teddy3333
I replaced the battery 3 months ago, I will replace the fuel filter, is it safe for the car to run to circulate the injector cleaner, and if it is, how long should I let it run?
Just because the battery has been replaced doesn't mean it's fully charged. Quite often batteries stored at parts houses may be there for several months prior to being sold.

Check the voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position to see if it's a minimum of 12.6 volts.
 
  #23  
Old 11-19-2019, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
As is commonly quoted on this forum, a "new battery" does not come fully charged. They sit on the shelf and should be charged before use or in your case, checked as NBCat suggests, then charged. Check the VOLTAGE.

You still don't have enough information. The engine shut itself down. Don't ignore that. gkubrak just posted a page from the manual with one of your codes on it. Note it points to possibly a full filter, among other things, including injectors. On your model year, it's a fairly easy change.

FYI - Follow and always heed the advice of a Tech on this forum (in this case NBCat). They are real technicians and know what they're talking about. Execute the fuel pressure test as he suggested and check the battery voltage. FYI, you have to run the engine to test the fuel pressure so you will be running your injector cleaner through.
Thank you sir, I will do just as you suggest !
 
  #24  
Old 11-04-2021, 10:42 AM
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Not sure if this thread is still active...
https://technician.academy/what-can-...-timing-fails/

I have a Jaguar 2007 with 46k miles on it.
The car sat 9 months without driving or starting and the oil was really bad and had stale fuel in the tank.
Monitoring the engine with my code scanner - (android tablet + Bluetooth ODBII dongle + ODB Fusion code scan APP)
The manifold vacuum at idle fluctuates between 12.6 and 21 - I believe its supposed to around 16 inches mercury vacuum.
Brief history - over the last month:
1. engine flush - 3 times dropped pan and inspected all looked good inside.
2. drive car until it was almost empty - added techron fuel system cleaner and a fuel injector cleaner after a couple trips (Symptoms is low performance mode and catalyst below threshold) P0430 that was the only code for a while. Then after running marvel mystery oil in crank case the low performance went away and the cars performance improved greatly.
3. another engine flush and oil change - kept a full bottle of marvel mystery oil in crank case - car drive 175 miles after codes cleared all green then - the random misfires showed up.
The manifold vacuum fluctuates, the RPMs drop then come back and I recall a similar issue with my Cadillac STS and I soaked the VVTs over night blew them out and everything was good.
Here is a description of what the VVTs do https://technician.academy/what-can-...-timing-fails/
https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...agnostic-tips/
4. I ask is WHY is this not referenced in the workshop manual as an area of focus with timing issues, low vacuum and performance it always points to a mechanical replacement of something else down stream.
I ordered new VVT and will replace them next week and post pics - I have pics and videos of all my work and will have it on you tube once complete.
recommendation with engine codes and performance issues:
Check and change engine oil Often (engine flush is not a bad idea be warned it can dislodge carbon and make get caught in engine - (why I use Marvel Mystery oil as it dissolves carbon deposits so they are picked up in Filter - use marvel in Diesel F350 Monte Carlo LS 5.3 ) and easy thing is pull and clean senors and recheck before doing major repairs - as an aside for almost 200 miles NO p0430 catalyst below threshold codes show up and only a P0308 misfire then multiple misfires and nothing for another 150 miles indicates there is still debri broken loose from engine flush circulating through - replace VVTs and then verify its fixed.
The misfires if not corrected soon could lead to a catalyst failure or problem as the cats run too hot from the un-burned fuel getting through .
Hope this helps..
I found the VVT technical Page very insightful as the Jaguar VVTs are continuous from engine idle until engine stops.
 

Last edited by Zippymac; 11-04-2021 at 10:50 AM.
  #25  
Old 04-18-2022, 10:18 AM
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I just wanted to close out this Post.
After a lot of troubleshooting and diagnostics the ultimate issue with the Jaguar are:
1. the vehicle got over revved a few times
2. the car sat and fell out of maintenance for 10 months sat in a garage after the over revving of engine and having low performance
3. Owner put in a new battery and tried to drive it with old gas and old oil
4. 3 engine flushes and fuel system cleaners got the car running better, but still random misfires on all cylinders
5. replaced VVT solenoids and the Sensor 2 O2 sensors on Bank 1 and bank 2 - The only random misfires were on Bank 2 - 2,4,6,8
7. 2,4,6,8 random misfires and P0403 Catalytic converter fault - also put a 3x5 index card over exhaust tips and has suck back (when the exhaust is not constantly pushing out nd there is a vacuum and the card is popped suck back on exhaust pipe end) on Bank2 driver side - indicates valve or timing issues
8. Pulled off top end of engine end and noticed 2,4,6,8 injectors real oily - pulled injectors and bench cleaned injectors
9. 2,4,6,8 misfires persisted - pulled engine - identified the exhaust cam out of sync with intake cam Bank 2 - replaced both VVTs, The engine had been repaired once before and RTV not applied sufficiently on the engine block seams allowing oil to seep and leak all over. Also the Solenoid Oil assembly was loose improperly torqued so most likely had oil pressure issues too.
10. Reassembled engine, new oil seal, new timing cover gaskets, new rocker cover gaskets, 2 new VVTs, Chain in great shape and tensioners all in great shape
11, catalytic convertor completely plugged and looked like it was in a blast furnace.
After new VVTs, injector cleaning all new O2 Sensors and a nee catalytic converter the care drives excellent. Quiet idle, smooth acceleration and all the power is back no codes.
After fixing the A/C duck bill leak I need to rebuild the blower motor, new brushes and clean the windings and stater.

Car is back and fun driving... now to provide regular maintenance and and enjoy this beautiful Jaguar XKR Super Charged cream puff. 47,500 miles and it looks it too.


Timing cover removed and VVTs

view of tensioners

injector cleaning


 

Last edited by Zippymac; 04-18-2022 at 10:24 AM.
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  #26  
Old 04-18-2022, 03:05 PM
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A year and a half to service the car?!?
 
  #27  
Old 04-18-2022, 03:31 PM
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Almost a year working on it part time,,, day job had me busy a lot plus other family obligations. got the car in August 2021. Bought the car December 2021 once it was identified to be a timing issue.
But yeah parked the car November 2021 and pulled engine February 2022 and piece mailed parts needed and research on how best to disassemble and assemble.

I never worked on Jaguar before. plus pulling engine was last resort but glad I did.
 
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  #28  
Old 06-18-2022, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by NBCat
If DTC P0300 is present accompanied by random misfires on all cylinders, the very first thing to do is check fuel pressure. Under no circumstances is the vehicle to be operated under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.

If you don't already have it, here is a link to the X150 Workshop Manual:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gn6p1upuh...S531fLxta?dl=0

Refer to the Manual for the fuel pressure test procedure.

What is the age of the battery? The battery must have a minimum of 12.6 volts when checked across the terminals with a voltmeter whilst the ignition is in the OFF position. If the voltage is less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery for at least 8 hours between 2 and 5 amps then perform another test. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts the battery must be replaced. A failing or weak battery is the often the cause of random DTCs and other electrical 'gremlins' chased on these forums.
Thanks for the link to the work shop manual
 
  #29  
Old 06-18-2022, 08:22 AM
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sounds like My Jaguar a 2007 same issues. I hope yours is not as bad as mine.
are the misfires on ALL cylinders on one side e.g. 2,4,6,8 or 1.3.5.7
the issues I had are not the same as yours, but for what it is worth.
1. replace the VVT solenoids cheap and only involves removing valve covers. easy to do in your garage - they can get carbon build up.
2. Have the car checked for a proper tune someone may have put a botched performance tune on it and screwed it up. I know a guy in the states that is helping me because that is ultimately what went wrong on mine; however, not before it caused significant engine problems.
3. Catalytic converter
- take a 3x5 index card place it over the exhaust tip flat if the card sucks back you have a mis timed engine.- goes pop pop pop suck 0 mistimed engine
- VVTs easy replace and check
- plugged catalytic converter are $1500 to $2800 last I checked a few months ago only 2 available - I know a muffler shop that can make a replacement $4500.00
Cats are NOT Cheap and if mis timed engine the CAT gets over heated and catalyst fuses together - then the back pressure CAN but not always cause the engine to skip timing - mine did because previous owner did not know better than street race a bad engine and 2 the performance tune removed the safety tables so I need a new base flash - this will be done when I get back home in a month maybe longer day job stuff.
1. get the JLR mongoose cable and the SDD software with a laptop am sure someone else here can recommend where so you can do proper code diagnosis.
2. I also have the KESS ECM reader and programmer - I AM NOT a Tuner guy and do not pretend to be one, find a GOOD tuner professional that knows Jaguars. just because you take it to a dealer is not a guarantee - know and meet your service guy personally.
after VVT and check it you will need to have CAT looked at - I dropped the exhaust and used a shop vac to check flow - engine off - ran shop vac - put it to the CAT to check it and if the vacuum loads the cat is plugged if not then its clear - right side CAT did not load up like a plugged vacuum left side driver side did CAT was toast.- also visual inspection was a dead give away but use shop vac anyway - bam!! $2500 later plus I had to pull engine and reset timing it was off a few degrees on driver side (left side US) exhaust cam. - get the timing tool kit - put engine on Top Dead Center of compression stroke when valve covers are off - there are flat spots on the cams that should be even if not bad timing arrangement.
I skipped a lot of details, but should be enough to figure out next steps though. hope you do not have to go through what I did.
VVTs plugged and are common if in frequent oil changes.
CATs burn up if engine falls out of tune
just advice take it for what its worth I am not a Jaguar mechanic but learned out of necessity to fix the one I have - oh and mine has 47K miles on it but idles smooth and no codes for 500 miles but the ECM is not right and can not really drive it fully until that is corrected.
A Jaguar tuner from California looked it over to find that the over rev protection table was missing in ECM, plus the User manual says car will not go over ~4000 RPM in park well that did not happen, and that was enough to know it has been tampered with.

Good Luck...

 

Last edited by Zippymac; 06-18-2022 at 08:30 AM.
  #30  
Old 06-19-2022, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Teddy3333
Teddy here, I'm in Nashville, bought a bottle of Techron and put it the car, also got all of the codes. I'm curious, I was asked has this car been driven since the repairs? I haven't driven it far, maybe 10 miles. Someone said the car needs to be driven at least 60 miles for computer to reset itself ? Is this true? Here are the codes--( po300-thru-po308-cylinder1-thru-cylinder8-misfire detected. Next-po316-misfire detected in startup (first1000 revolutions)-po174-system too lean(bank 1)- po101-mass or -volume air flow circuit range/lerformance--po2105-throttle actuator control system-force engine shutdown.Should this car be driven on the interstate if it's misfiring ? I hope this information is helpful !
I use to be a soldier at Fort Campbell back when i had a 2007 XKR convertible and I use to take mine to the Jaguar dealership out there in Nashville,TN get my Jag fixed all the time.But to be exact,the dealership is out there in Brentwood,TN right outside of Nashville.Drive it to the brentwood,TN Jaguar dealership and they WILL FIX YOUR XKR!!!!!!!!!!!!!They never failed at getting my jag back up and running even when i had the whole drive train and transmission ripped out of the car 1 time.They fixed all that back for me and car drove like a brand new 1 after they fixed it
 
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