I have owned my car for about a month and it was due for an oil change. The car is a 2010 with 27K miles on it. I thought it might be kind of fun to document this procedure so that others who are considering the DIY oil change might have have a visual reference. It's really a pretty straight forward process.

While I do give reference to veteran member Queen & Country - this video/post is not intended to promote or discourage the use of any particular oil or filter etc. I am just documenting the process.

 

Nice job. I still would have liked a spin on filter but the insert is easy enough. I am also surprised that oil drains out of the filter which makes me thing there is no flow during start up. Oh when you tightened the filter after it was seated what was the torque setting . Thanks

 

Thanks jagtoes - yes, you bring up a good point about oil draining out of the filter. I thought the same thing. I torqued the filter cap to 25 Nm. Which I believe converts to roughly 18 foot pounds.

 

never mind

 

Few addition tips, you are gonna love this.

The oil filter is $3 bucks at Rock Auto. Stockup right away now that I have let the cat out of the bag.
Quality of the filter does not matter on these as they are all the same. So its not like you get a better housing or better quality drainback valves, its all the same.
Worse, none of the filters can filter the soot from DI engines, which is in the 3micron range.

Heck yeah getting that oil out of filter housing matters. Old oxidized oil contaminates new oil quicker than if the oil was new. (speeds oxidation, like a little bit of sour wine in a barrel)
You can siphon it out with the mightyvac. And then pour some fresh oil to flush out the valleys you cant see. Do this before you drain the oil.

That Ravenol oil is very interesting. I cant believe how much they went through to prevent counterfeiting. Such as a bottle that cant be refilled cause the cap is non removable. Even more, there is a website and scratch-off serial number on the back, so i go to it and enter my number and it tells me its genuine, then I enter just one digit different and it says its fake. What I like about this is that its less likely some blyat ruskie will circulate fake oil. BTW I did not get mine from ebay, got mine from https://www.blauparts.com/, they have coupons off next purchase in box.

 

Queen & Country thanks for the post!! Really great to hear from you. I appreciate the information on the filter and it's inability to capture the soot on these engines. That makes complete sense. Gotta love Rock Auto! I just grabbed up 5 filters and a cabin fresh air filter since I was there.

Excellent advice on pouring some fresh oil down the filter housing to flush the valleys. I will definitely remember that one.

Yes, that Ravenol Oil that I got off of Ebay was from blauparts.com. I have my coupon so I will probably just order directly from them from now on. Thanks again for your advice and input, it definitely helps us newer members and I greatly appreciate it!

 

Can you drain the oil from the bottom of the pan at all on the 5.0 SC? I think on the 3.0 SC engine you can.

 

There is a drain plug there but I believe it has been determined that it is not at the lowest point in the pan so some volume of oil remains.

 

There is a drain plug in the oil pan and it is located at the same level as the suction tube. The problem is you need to remove the plastic belly pan to get at it . Because the oil filter had been changed from the 4.2 engine (spin on located under the engine) to the top of the engine on the 5.0 it is easier and quicker to vacuum out the oil for an oil change. There is no difference as to the amount of oil that is removed .

 

Plus I would not jack the car up to change oil. If you have a lift or pit its fine.
This car is not jacking friendly.