I was wondering if I could get some insight from anyone who may have run into a similar issue with their 2010+ XKR? Car has driven flawlessly since I purchased it about a month ago. Picked it up with 35k miles and drove it 12 hours from Ft Luaderdale, FL to South MS with no issue. Drove it to eat a few nights ago, everything fine, eat, and go to leave when it goes into restricted performance mode. Idle is rough and extreme loss of power. I drove it the following day to have the codes checked and its showing a misfire on every cylinder. Codes its throwing is every thing from p0300 - p0308, and p0313 - p0316. I'm thinking it has to be fuel related, but I don't have much experience with these cars yet, coming from the Vette world. Any help and information is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

That would probably be a vacuum leak. Many ways to find it, from pumping smoke to spraying starting fluid.

 

Holy smokes honey can you go and grab me my bee smoking kit lol

Sorry Ceejay im familiar with the latter of the two techniques you recommend however quite interested in this smoking technique

 

I've had it checked for vacuum leaks, and none were discovered unfortunately.

 

I'd start with your MAF , O2 sensors and crank position sensor check them all out

Next would be the cats and lastly the ecm

 

Most competent Auto Shops have a smoke generator specifically for this, as well as for finding body gasket leaks.....
A non-smelly and non-lingering smoke is pumped into the vacuum system at pretty much any location and then turned on. The pressurized smoke traverses the entire system and escapes wherever there is a place TO escape, ie; a leak. It is a very simple and specific way to track a vacuum leak with less noise and hazard than pretty much any other way.
Sucks that's not the problem, they are easy to fix.

 

I've always done it the old school way with starter spray and listened for the revs to jump.

I really like the concept of the smoker makes perfect sense

 

The smoke method seems more reliable and consistent, though I've never tried that way before. I'm still hoping its something that's an easy fix, but if not, that's where the extended warranty will help out a lot lol.

 

The fact that a 6-year-old car with 35K miles on it is having problems of this nature is not very encouraging for those of us looking to purchase one, I gotta say. These are the kinds of problems that are driving me away from my 1988 Porsche 928, but it seems like maybe the Jaguar would not actually be any better despite being 20 years younger?

 

Yep, three lemony cars out of 35,000 is atrocious.
Mine is a piece of garbage as well, as I had to have a TPMS sensor replaced at 60,000 miles.
GGGRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So you're sarcastically saying that I have nothing to worry about... that might put my sights back on track.

 

Im fairly confident its a fuel issue, be in the high pressure fuel pump, or maybe injector related. Going to pull all the injectors to have them checked, and if they are good then look at replacing the fuel pump. There's only so many things that can cause a engine misfire on all cylinders.

 

Enroute go over what I suggested in my post

If you think it's the pump run direct power to it at least that way you can eliminate the issue

 

I had everything checked you suggested, minus the cats and ecm so far. Going to check the pump with the direct power, then everything else. Hopefully we will get something figured out.

 

Enroute keep all posted but yes power up the fuel first before pulling out the injectors

 

This came up for me today, right on the highway. Car slowed down, mirrors came in , ac turned off, and engine light came on.
I love my Jag, just coming up to 100,000 miles and the truth is the car has performed well. Lots of tires, lots of rims, but basically not much to do on this car until today. 12 HOURS LABOR at the Jag dealer, plus....

THERMOSTAT 1 1 88.49
SEAL-THERMOSTAT 1 1 18.38
SEAL-WATER OUTLE 4 2 24.58
SEAL 1 1 6.15
PUMP-WATER 2 1 194.88
PUMP-S/CHARGR CO 1 1 503.28
ANTIFREEZE 50 1 15.68
FAN & COWL 0 1 775.50
BELT-DRIVE 4 1 96.53
BELT-DRIVE 1 1 137.54
DISC-BRAKE AXLE 4 1 358.00
BRAKE PAD AXLE S 7 1 185.25
BG BRAKE KIT 25 1 21.00
BRAKLEEN 17 1 6.99
PARTS AND LABOR FOR SUPERCHAR.PUMP,WATER PUMP,T-STAT,RAD FAN,BELTS AND COOLANT APPROX. $3730.00+TAX
PARTS AND LABOR FOR REAR BRAKES APPROX.$960.00+TAX
OIL CHANGE $249.95+TAX

So about 4500.plus new back brakes, 1000, plus some paint touching up 2200, so about 8000 dollars.

Now the question is , do i get a new car or not? and if so, what to buy. That warning light hit me hard!!

 

I would suggest taking this to another dealer or indie mechanic

I wasnt aware a scanner could pick up all those items i highly doubt that's the case

 

Have to agree with that, sounds like a dealer that wants to take 'brit' for a ride.
Put a code scanner on it and find out what the car is complaining about. Either your own (they're cheap) or take it to an auto parts store that will do it for free.
Post the codes here, and you'll probably get solutions that are less dramatic.
Yes, it's possible all those things should be done at some point, but maybe not all at once. If you need to move the car, check your coolant level first (no need frying the engine if you've got a leak).

 

they are saying that the warning light came from the pump charger, then they "found" a lot of other issues. I do not have the extended warranty, does anyone with a car from 2009?

Going to sell the car for next to nothing, and see what is out there that is comparable in the used range, 2012-2015, any suggestions?

 

Your member info says you have a 2008 XKR convertible. So yes, if your 9 year old car has that secondary pump go, that's not unexpected. And replacing the main water pump at the same time, if it hasn't been replaced before, may be a justifiable expense (since they're in there already). And the same could be said for the thermostat.

But that charge for a new fan and cowl? Unless the fan's not working, that sounds like an unreasonable service.
Those charges for rear brakes and an oil change are ridiculous, go elsewhere if you don't want to do it yourself.

Selling the car for a song is your choice, but you're not going to get a replacement in the 2012+ range for a similar price. Many here will tell you that moving up to the 5.0L will give you a bigger 'kick in the pants' than the 4.2L, but your XKR is no slouch either.

Good luck, keep us posted on your decision.