Thoughts:
I had a knock after shutoff that sounded just like that "hot temp, low octane" post-knock that you'd get on older cars sometimes. Nope, was the supercharger. (was fixed under warranty)
I have, intermittently, a knock at idle now that I'd SWEAR was a valve lifter but I'm told is more likely an injector (?) and not to worry about it. Like I said, it's a now-and-then thing.
I go through a quart about every 4000 miles.

 

"Old school says you buy gas and check the oil level while it's pumping. 5.0's need to sit longer than it takes to get fuel so they just don't get checked."

Agree ONE THOUSAND PERCENT about the dipstick. Also: if you know there's supposed to be X amount in the pan 15 minutes after shutoff, shouldn't you also be able to calculate that there should be Y amount after 15 seconds?

I have concerns about this. I bought my car used, only 8500 miles, but... I decided to check the level about 2500 miles after I bought it. (Funny how you don't think to do it without a dipstick.) What I got was a "SEE MANUAL" warning. (For the uninitiated, here are the responses: OIL LEVEL OK; ADD 0.5 QUARTS; ADD 1.0 (or 1.5) QUARTS... and then, SEE MANUAL. Which, I realized, meant I was at least two quarts low. And adding-then-checking with this system is a nightmare. I think it took me 2.5 quarts to get back to where I was supposed to be. I'm worried that the promised pre-purchase oil change never occurred, and I'm more worried that I did some long-term damage. Oh well.

 

pk just check it in the morning before you start the car. Even if you do it once a week it's enough. Audi does the same but they left the dip stick tube where they insert the extractor tube. After market makes a dip stick you can use. As for the Jag I tried to insert a wire into the extractor tube but after seeing that this tube takes a few sharp bends you can't get a reading. So I stick to the check before start method. Also I bet if someone searched enough they could find a port where you can put in a sending unit for an oil pressure gauge.

 

Just tee in to wherever the oem pressure sensor is. It'll probably be a female 1/8 BSP thread in the block, so you'll need an adapter to go from that to a male 1/8 NPT, then a barbed nipple with a short section of hose to a tee where your oem and aftermarket senders plug in. I've done this countless times as well as using the oem pressure sensor port as a feed for the oil line on a turbo. From experience- you don't want to just screw the tee into the block because the weight of the two senders hanging off the tee subjected to engine vibration will be enough to break the tee off inside the block. It wasn't pretty when that happened.

Additionally, a scan tool will read live oil pressure data if you just want to check it to see if it's within spec.

 

Yep I assume that would be the logical place to mount one but I would like to see/know if anyone has done this on both the 4.2 and the 5.0. As far as a scan tool do I assume you mean something like Torque Pro or is it some other unit. As far as I know there is no provision in the X150 engines that provide oil pressure information through the OBDII port. I can't get any reading on my Torque Pro in my 5.0 XKR

 

The Foxwell NT510 will read live oil pressure (and temp!), as well as a whole bunch of other neat stuff you didn't know you had access to, like rear diff oil temp, active diff status, suspension position on each corner, the accelerometers, and a whole slew of other stuff. Basically, if it's a sensor and communicates with a module, you can view its live data.

As for if anyone has teed in like I described... very doubtful. Why do you want to know that, out of curiosity?

 

I thought the pressure sensor is on the oil filter mount. I'd much rather just have a switch with a screaming alarm versus a gauge that I won't be watching in the thick of things.

 

I just read the info on this but looking under the Jaguar PDF I either don't know or didn't see where it would show oil pressure. So my question to you is I assume you have one but will it show OP for a 2012 XKR . Also I see it has the ability to set the E-brake for pad change . Is that correct? If so I'll order one. Thanks for the info.

 

I'll get some pics of the scanner reading oil pressure when I get home, and will conform it's operation of the park brake.

As for an idiot buzzer... you aleady have a light in the cluster that comes on if pressure drops below minimum specs so you could just dig into the wiring diagrams and find out where to tap into to run a piezoelectric buzzer. Thing is, that spec is pretty low. I'm not sure what our cars are- you can look it up if you have the fsm- but if you made me guess, I'd say it's under 10 psi at idle, while operating pressure when driving is probably anywhere from 30 to 60 psi. Oil pressure isn't constant; it depends on oil temp and engine rpm. The range between minimum spec and zero is very small, so by the time the buzzer goes off, it's probably a goner; it'd basically be like the overheat light we have... all the buzzer is going to do is tell you that the engine just munched itself and back up what the light on the dash is telling you.

I'm a pilot and I work on C130s, and I gwt it- I love lights, buzzers, circuit breakers and switches, but there comes a point where you just have to put your faith in the machine and accept that you can't monitor for and prevent every type of failure.

 

Wasn't aware there was a pressure sensor on the engine. Nothing is fed to the OBD II port so I'll be interested to see what Mandrake finds. Oil temp, yes, pressure, no sadly. At least as it applies to my 07. Maybe something different on the 5.0 liter engines.

 

Have you used something other than a free app and a $5 dongle to look? The oil pressure is there; you need the right tool to read it.

 

The oil sensor in the 5.0 engine is actually a level & temperature sensor, it doesn't do pressure. To measure the pressure in a workshop situation, there's a special tool (part no 303-1451) that is basically a modified oil filter canister with a fitting on it to attach a conventional gauge. I don't know if there is any issue in leaving that modified canister in place with an aftermarket sensor attached to it, but I think that would be worth investigating.

 

hehe, yes I have a couple, including Autoenginuity and OEM SDD, though I've never looked for it using SDD. And I do know how to use them.

I wasn't slamming you. I was hoping to learn so please snap a pic when you display it on your Foxwell 510.

I do use the torque pro app and did write them about the inability to display the oil pressure and their response was that the data wasn't fed to the OBD port.

But I worded it poorly. Yes there's a pressure sensor and a pressure switch that goes to an idiot light in the dash.

I think I also chased it with WhiteXKR from his JagWrangler website as he built a real gauge accessory for the XK8, but no luck there either.

 

No slam taken, bud. I have a pretty thick skin and probably come across as a dick half the time because I get used to everyone I interact with on a daily basis having a thick skin as well. Sometimes I forget that this isn't Custom Fighters or Pirate 4x4.

Anyway, I could very well be wrong. It's happened before, and it'll happen again. But I am- or, was- very certain that oil pressure is a field visible. Your feedback has me in doubt of my memory now. I'll get into it this evening and post up some pics with what I have.

 

Hey MAN as a side bar I worked with an Army reserve guy 11 years ago who commanded a maintenance team on C130's over at Steward Air base in NY

 

Well fellas, Foxwell done made a liar outta me. Nope, you cannot read oil pressure. My only excuse to back out of it is that I must have been thinking about my Land Cruiser. Sorry about that.

Jagtoes- yes, it will allow you access to the parking brake.

 

Hmm, I personally wouldn't accept a 1% failure of any system I would build, whether it be one of my many built mc's or a car. It's not 1930. especially if you're one the the unfortunate 300 facing a $50K replacement. Extend this over the Jaguar model line, and while the percentage may not change, if you do the math, the total number of failures increases. Considering GM was on the hook for less than 124 events against 1.5m units...well, you do the math.

 

That would be considered good in todays engines.
https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/most-reliable-engines/

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-new...ngine-failures

 

Not so fast cowboy. While this is a statistical analysis of reliability, at least from the perspective of a private warranty provider, its findings include "engine trouble" which could be literally anything that causes the engine to not perform as expected, which is very much different than rod bearing failure, which would be more of a catastrophic trouble than just engine trouble. A stuck injector or bad coil pack is engine trouble easily repaired without an engine swap, though expensive enough where a warranty claim would be prudent.

The question isn't how often does the 5.0L fail, but does JLR know why it does, when it does. Obviously, there are conditions which lead to failure as an event. Some suggest a low-oil condition. Low oil is not some magical happening. It is the symptom of a cause, especially in a modern, liquid-cooled engine using high-grade synthetics. Others suggest a lack of proper baffles to prevent iol starvation under heavy load, one of the reasons street cars make lousy track cars.

Or something else. JLR revamped the geometry of the chain guide actuators to fix a common and well-known problem. They didn't issue a recall of the offending part, but will update if a customer has a problem and can convince the service dept the problem is real. The wearing is gradual enough that most may not even realize something is changing under their beloved bonnets. Left unchecked, the loose chain can start making room in the channel by eating away at the aluminum block, wreaking havoc in a precision engine such as the 5.0L. This would easily result in an engine failure.

So we must distinguish between engine trouble and engine failure. One is a repair, the other a rebuild. Or in JLR's case, a replacement.

 

Unfortunately your summation is not supported by any data whether it be JLR or any independent organization. Although your diagnostic's would be areas that would cause the problem to happen there still isn't a specific finding. This form and others don't have sufficient enough findings to yet form a creditable trend. There are also loads of assumptions and data on the web but most are used for general information. So I guess we agree to disagree on whether this is a problem. Maybe we should list all of the problems brought up on the form and put up a sticky on Why You Shouldn't Buy A X150 Jaguar. We got what we got.