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4.2 Supercharger & throttle body elbow removal advice

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  #21  
Old 04-15-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gkubrak
So only the 5.0s have a coolant level sensor? I have the 4.2 and I don't think it has one. I'm not sure what else could be the issue, especially on start-up, and with no codes.

Could contaminated fuel or blocked injectors cause restricted performance? I'm guessing that would trigger misfires and give me some codes so I doubt that's the issue.

I
I would think the low fuel pressure would be the problem. See if it does it when you replace the sensor.
 
  #22  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gkubrak
After further investigation, I realized the 'restricted performance' was probably from low coolant level ... tank was full before cranking, empty afterward. Seeing as how there were no codes or check engine light, I'm assuming that was the issue.

Would a low coolant level trigger the 'restricted performance' and no codes? The manual says there is a level sensor in the tank but I don't see one.

EDIT: there is no "low coolant" level message that shows up. Just ran through all the possible messages in the manual (pgs 2655 - 2664), and that isn't one of them. I guess the only way it will tell you you're low on coolant is by putting the car into restricted mode - how clever. Almost as clever as not being able to see the engine temp on the display!

Still waiting on a fuel filter so probably won't get to running the car again till Thursday.
I'm pretty sure that's a combo sensor, fuel pressure and manifold pressure. You didn't forget the little vacuum line that connects to the side of the blower outlet did you?
 
  #23  
Old 04-15-2019, 10:45 PM
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Wow, that is a slick paint job and harness wire and hose cover job .... Kansas City Chief's red to boot...my team and favorite color....excellent workmanship....if you are ever in KC, pop the hood and i bet you get free dinner and drinks
 
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  #24  
Old 04-16-2019, 01:00 PM
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Looking forward to the picture of the finished project!
 
  #25  
Old 04-17-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
I'm pretty sure that's a combo sensor, fuel pressure and manifold pressure. You didn't forget the little vacuum line that connects to the side of the blower outlet did you?
I replaced that whole vacuum line, and yes it was plugged in correctly.

Funny thing is ... when looking at the old sensor (left) and new one (right), you can see the new one has a smaller opening for the vacuum. I wonder if this was a design change. I got the part from the dealer so It's gotta be the right one.

Filter should be in today so I'll know tonight if everything worked out.


 
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:23 PM
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Usually gauge ports have restrictions to limit pressure pulses hitting the Borden tube (they'll fatigue crack and fail over time). I can see the manufacturer doing the same for an electronic gauge that uses calibrated capacitance between the pressurized plates to determine the pressure.
 
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Old 04-17-2019, 05:31 PM
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^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
He's right. Pressure is pressure, you don't need volume.
Reactive compression of atmosphere is negligible, so the response time would be insignificant.
 
  #28  
Old 04-18-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Cee Jay
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
He's right. Pressure is pressure, you don't need volume.
Reactive compression of atmosphere is negligible, so the response time would be insignificant.
Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Usually gauge ports have restrictions to limit pressure pulses hitting the Borden tube (they'll fatigue crack and fail over time). I can see the manufacturer doing the same for an electronic gauge that uses calibrated capacitance between the pressurized plates to determine the pressure.
That may explain why my pressure readings were all over the place before this job. And possibly why the sensor failed internally and leaked fuel.

Either way, I replaced the sensor, fuel filter, and topped off the coolant. Started the car up and gave it some throttle. No issues! Restricted performance went away and everything sounded great. Fuel pressure readings were much tighter and more stable than ever before. Although I am still convinced the low coolant triggered the restricted performance.

Got a bit worried when I saw smoke coming from near the EGR pipe, but I figured it was just WD-40 and cleaner residue burning off - and it was.

Thanks everyone for all the input! Now it's on to the catch can setup!
 
  #29  
Old 04-18-2019, 09:34 AM
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Will update in a few days when I confirm no more P0101 code shows up.

Some pics of the final assembly ...



 
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  #30  
Old 04-18-2019, 11:22 AM
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Nice job and looks good.
 
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  #31  
Old 04-18-2019, 11:49 AM
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Yep, looks good. Local Ford dealer has the 1/4 turn fasteners for the cowl covers.

From experience, coolant loss doesn't trigger a warning until the temps get too hot (repaired cut hose popped apart)...
 
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  #32  
Old 04-18-2019, 10:40 PM
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Looks good.
 
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2019, 12:40 AM
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Well done. Maybe it's just the exposure on some of the photos, but the color looks a bit 'orangish', reminds me of a Mopar 'Super Commando'.
 
  #34  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:15 AM
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I think I would do the dip stick handle to match.
 
  #35  
Old 04-22-2019, 08:05 AM
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VERY nicely done! Congratulations.

Originally Posted by gkubrak
Will update in a few days when I confirm no more P0101 code shows up.

Some pics of the final assembly ...


 
  #36  
Old 04-22-2019, 08:55 AM
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I'd paint the "Supercharged" and "V-8" in a contrasting color, maybe silver or white.

Looks very nice!
 
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  #37  
Old 04-23-2019, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 110reef
I'd paint the "Supercharged" and "V-8" in a contrasting color, maybe silver or white.

Looks very nice!
I thought about that but realized how much of a pain that would be to mask everything off.

Then I thought about just sanding it down to a nice polished aluminum finish but didn't want to scratch the surrounding areas.

Maybe next time !
 
  #38  
Old 04-23-2019, 01:48 PM
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WOW...excellent...car show time....those so-called supercars will take notice
 
  #39  
Old 04-24-2019, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gkubrak
.

Then I thought about just sanding it down to a nice polished aluminum finish but didn't want to scratch the surrounding areas.

Maybe next time !
I was just going to suggest that

So I missed why you undertook this project. Oil pooling in the intake? When I removed the tubes to do my ignition coils I noticed an oil film in there, but no pooling. Normal?

-Beau
 
  #40  
Old 04-25-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Beau M
I was just going to suggest that

So I missed why you undertook this project. Oil pooling in the intake? When I removed the tubes to do my ignition coils I noticed an oil film in there, but no pooling. Normal?

-Beau
Just from 1? Or all? I wouldn't consider it a problem until it starts pooling up or you notice a lot of oil burning up. Replacing valve cover gasket and grommets must be a pain, I remember doing them on the X-type, not fun.

What started this was a suspected vacuum leak, and some bad cold start performance - getting worse. Physically, there was oil leaking down onto the elbow and bypass valve. It got so bad that it dripped down to the engine and transmission .... I almost thought it was a trans leak. The oil was pooling up in the intake, and due to a bent seal was able to leak. Still don't know how that seal could have been bent like that, probably installed incorrectly and forcibly.

Don't know how all that oil got in there in the first place, maybe due to so many short trips in the cold, but I also added a catch can at the end of this project to prevent that. You can see the pictures of the oil and seal if you scroll up.

As for the catch can setup, just waiting on plumbing and fittings to come in.
 


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