Ya know, either create a build thread or add a signature line letting us know what this is...

 

Sorry, only pics I have right now....need to get it back together and have an induction cleaning service done....

can anyone enlighten me on how they do it? Like where do they hook into, what chemicals, etc. Going to try to get my local ford dealer to do this for me.

 

2010 XKR

 

If you can bring it to them like that, ie- tow it, you'll probably save abut $300 in labor.

They strip it down to where you have it and use a fixture to simultaneously blast walnut shells at it and vacuum out said shells along with the chunks of carbon.

 

BigD
Thank You so much for posting this picture.
Its priceless info for Jaguar and Land Rover owners across many models.
Here is the best source of free and lost performance.

With pleasure.

• Induction service wont touch that buildup (you should be aware that it is not bad- but there is visible restriction- for a performance minded person like you its the first place you start)
• Induction based chemical cleaning is for those who dont want to go this far as staring at the valves. (why use toilet paper in the shower)
• Mechanical cleaning is the way to go. Basically close the valve, block the other one with rag, blow walnut shells blast media, while simultaneous using a shop vac. They make a plastic tool for this that makes it easy and all contained, or you can make one with 3D printing.
• I would go to an Audi or BMW specialty shop- they are supremely experienced in this problem and have figured out all kinds of tricks.
• I see varnish build up too, not abnormal.

Some more insight please:
What was the gas and oil used- and what was the maintenance history.

Thank You.

 

2 other mods.

1. You can go down to a very fine grit of walnut and get same effect as port polishing.

2. If you want to tackle this chemically at this stage, with physical access to the valves for agitation, you can get CRC 'one tank' which I believe is the most concentrated form of PEA at local auto stores. That will be far more effective than any no-touch method.

 

I'm thinking a shot of Easy Off down the ports, let the chemical work and flush it out once done. Hard part is ensuring the intake valves are closed when flushing so you don't hydrolock the engine.

This also begs to wonder about the old water injection / steam cleaning from the carb days. Slowly pour a soda can of water down the intake while revving it above 3000 rpm. Use a vacuum port to do the same thing on an EFI engine.

 

I also thought of that exact thing, along with another "Old Man" fix, using a slow-pour of about a half-pint of tranny fluid. That makes a lot of smoke, but it's always worked for me in the past (strait down the carb). I don't know how well it'd meld with all this electronic crap, but may do great.

 

I've been running methanol in the intake (before TB) for some time now, supposed to keep everything clean, would be interesting to see what mine looks on the inside. Will have to wait until I pull the super charger for a port and polish.

 

On the 4.2 I have at the house there is a ton of sticky black gunk built up from the PCV system right below the throttle body. I can only imagine how it affects the heat transfer in the I/C.

 

Very badly indeed.

I was aghast at the sticky carbon build up below the throttle body as well as in the intercoolers.
which is why I have an oil catch can as well as methanol/water injection.

 

 

One more soak and scrubbing tomorrow, it's coming out pretty easy but it's still a time/labor intensive task.

 

The important part is the 1/16" wide seal between he valve and the seat. That's where you lose most of your flow.

 

What are you using for the soak?

 

Interesting thread, and glad the OP is sharing. Keep us posted!

Q&C is in error though, as induction cleaning does indeed work. (I've done before and after dyno runs on my 2010) BG was one of the first aftermarket companies to offer this, and many large dealerships now use it, or their own brand labeled version. We've had several posts in the past talking about excessive carbon buildup on the new DI motors.... Something other manufacturers have been working on for nearly the last 2 decades. Jaguar, as always, was very late to the DI party. (note: you will not have the same problems on the 4.2l unless you have abused the engine with poor fuel and oils) Oh... turns out my local Ford dealership is an authorized BG center, and it cost me $199.

Your certainly doing a more thorough job than an induction cleaner, but anyone with DI should make induction cleaning part of their 2 year maintenance requirements to keep up with and minimize this buildup.

Water injection is an idea I've contemplated as well, and should generate additional HP provided the ECU can adapt fuel ratios to it.

Vince

 

Chemical cleaning (maintenance) does work, its what I do myself. However, it works in a very limited capacity.
That's why Audi and BMW (who have poorly designed DI) for their warranty work use walnut shells abrasive- its the only way, as the OP will soon tell us, that carbon aint moving without mechanical agitation.

 

Research that I have done would seem to confirm the above. Soft carbon deposits yes however that carbon on the back of valves is rock hard.

Spraying it with cold water when hot might dislodge chunks however I am not at all sure I would want to do that!

 

There is another benefit to walnut blasting, you are polishing the surface and thereby slowing down future buildup.
Easy-off will do the opposite, give you a pitted and oxidized surface, ready for you to make that carbon into diamond grade.