It seems my wiring at the headlamps have lost their coatings. How would this affect the adaptive headlamps. They are not working. Can I just repair the wiring? Looking for advise

 

Well, baring issues with the adaptive lighting module and motors, I wouldn’t think a shorting issue would be helpful. And may have infact fried the components…

 

There are several posts in a couple different threads about members repairing the damaged insulation in the headlight assembly. Tedious, but WAY better than paying for new units at $3k a pop.

 

I did a quick search and didn't find any threads on repair. But, I did run into someone a few weeks ago who routinely does wiring repair on headlamps. Showed me a Mercedes headlamp. He removes each wire individually from the connector, then heat shrink wraps and re-installs each one. I believe there is a tool for safely removing the pins from the connector so they can be re-installed. Slow and fiddly, but it works. Hopefully the wires haven't shorted in yours.
Just looked on Amazon and there are dozens of tools for removing pins. And O'Reilly's too, so other parts stores I'm sure.

 

I did a search and came up with this:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ailing-224587/

 

Thank you for all the information.

Time to make some decisions.

Know anything about convertible headliner not fully attached to back window?

 

I've shrinkwrapped a couple Hella headlight pods on my BMW's and Jag.. Couple of tips:

1. Of course, take the pods out and put them on a bench to work. Your goal is to disturb (move) as few wires as possible.
2. Work with tools wherever possible rather than your fingers: tweezers, forceps etc. Work around wires rather than pushing them aside. You can cover a lot of wires through the openings when you remove the caps. If you want to take it apart and completely replace wiring, go ahead, but it's a maddening job to do. Removing the lens on these is a bitch.
3. Snip wires about a CM from the connector. You will be soldering them back together after covering them as much as you can with shrinktube. Easier than trying to remove pins without the right pin tools and less risk of breakage when you don't have replacement pins. The little holdfasts on the pins break very easily and when broken the pins won't couple right.
4. After snipping, push the wrap on and slide successive pieces if needed as far back along the wire as you can to cover as much as possible. Don't remove cracked insulation, cover it. Don't move the wire any more than you have to. Remember that air is a fine insulator -- if the bit of bare wire occurs can it can't touch another conductor, leave it alone. After covering the wires and heat shrinking them, slide on a 3 cm piece over the shrunk and move it up the wire when it won't be affected by the heat from soldering the pin stub back on. Then slide it back down over the joint and shrink it.
5. The grunt soldering iron from the bottom of your toolbox with the wide tip is likely a bad choice. For about $20 you can get a temp controlled iron on Amazon that will have much more accurate tips.

Good luck.

 

@slb07jagxk I'd like to know the tool your friend uses to pull the pins. Disregard. Found them on Amazon

 

Thank you...even if done correctly, what is the chance they still may not work?

 

50/50
WJ

 

Sean, would you care to elaborate? I'd like to find one too.
Do you have any maker's reference to the connectors and/or pins in case of damage to the old ones?