Hello

A week ago I got blinking Adaptive Headlight light on the cluster. and both low beams are crossed now. I tried to disconnect battery, reset the system by turning wheel left and right, warning light would go away and low beams would be centered but as soon I start the car and turn the wheel the light would come back and jag would be cross-eyed cat!

i noticed that my left side ( driver) headlight has been opened before as i can see a black tar/glue around the lens...

I went ahead and bought clone SDD cable ,( my other post has an amazon link to the cable) set it up and run diagnostics, and got messages below in screenshots, but not sure how to read them and how to clear them all and re run diagnostics.




anyway could someone point me in right direction what i should check?

 

Part of normal troubleshooting would dictate swapping the control modules from each headlight to the opposite side and see if the fault follows the module and is not part of a harness problem. If it follows the module, get a new one.

 

Take your fist and pound each of the headlights three or four times, then lock the car to reset electronics, and then start the car again and see what happens. The first time this happened in my 2010 XKR, I purchased a headlight from a forum member and the problem went away. But over the last couple of years, it occurs every so often. Another forum member mentioned that he hits the lights, so I tried it, and sure enough, it has worked everytime since (at least a couple of dozen times). It may take a couple of times of pounding the light but each time it has cleared the warning and started working normally again.

 

Since they are both pointing funny I'd start by only having one lamps housing plugged in at a time and see if you can isolate it that way. If you do, swap the control modules on the housing. If you can't, look into the body module for the lamps. Have you looked in the X150 service manual for it's troubleshooting tips?

 

Everything stated above, then maybe, look at the top of your SDD screen, you're on the DTC tab. The next tab are recommendations in order of importance. What does that tab tell you? Can you post a snapshot?

 

U1A38-00 - Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams, and check the power/ground supply and Communication circuit to the Headlamp Power Module. Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, clear stored DTCs in the Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) Control Module. Cycle the ignition state to off, then return to on and check for stored DTCs. If DTCs U1A39-00 and U1A38-00 return suspect Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS) Control Module internal fault, If only DTC U1A38- 00 returns suspect Headlamp Power Module internal fault. Replace as required. Refer to the new module/component installation note at the top of the DTC Index

 

You guys are the best! thanks for recommendations! i will try them this weekend.

Quick questions, i read that SDD needs a steady power supply to the battery but I don't have it. do i need it for diagnostics only? how long I can have the car powered on and SDD cable plugged in before i run into issue with low battery?

 

About five minutes IF you're lucky. Want to flash something to a module? It'll burn up if you don't have enough power. There's a Vehicle Battery monitor in SDD's upper right corner and if it goes from Green to Yellow you have about five minutes before it'll go red and everything goes Hooey.
"Power Supply" can be a decent battery charger, 40 Amp with current control, which most should have. I have a 2/20/40/200 amp charger with the LED readouts and it works perfectly well. Using SDD and it supplies usually between 20-22 amps pretty much constantly. SDD stays green the whole while and no gremlins anywhere.
Any 20 amp draw without a supply will drain a battery pretty fast.

 

I don't plan to program any modules, only read and clear DTC.
Where did you get your power supply? would C-tek battery charger do the same? i would like to get something that i can use for providing power while using SDD and also charge the battery when car is in storage for winter..

 

 

Does SDD run the fan WFO during programming? My old Lincoln LS did and it was sketchy that you'd get the program swapped before the battery gave out.

 

 

You COULD use CTEK, but you would need Fifty of them hooked up and running in parallel. Not really feasible. That Schumaker above would work. Supposedly 2010+ cars need 40 Amps continuous as per Factory, but like I said.... most of my draw was between 20 and 22 or so. It did spike at about 28 once that I noticed. SDD says use 40 for 2010-up, 20 for 2009-down.

 

There are several items that will turn on and off while running a diagnostic as mentioned above, but momentary.

You shouldn't have any difficulty as you've already run the codes, however you should display the recommendations so we can see if there are any longer programs to run. SDD has some self checks and shouldn't even start if your voltage is below the threshold.

Your battery is displayed in the upper right corner and is red on your screen. Long story short, put the charger on @ 25 amp setting and make sure the battery is fully charged before you start. When you connect, the battery indicator in SDD should be green.

While working on the car, close the door so you don't drain the battery. If you're working a few hours, keep it on the charger. As long a you are in read code only and clearing codes mode, I doubt you'll have trouble. Use the battery indicator as your guide.

 

 

 

Peter,

As mentioned earlier the 5.0L (2010-up) XKs want a much higher voltage than the earlier 4.2s. Last recommendation I saw from Jag was 50 Amp service mode when using SDD (or similar).

If you want something relatively inexpensive to handle this I highly recommend this Charger with it's 55amp Charger/Service Mode.

Schumacher SE-1555A, current Cost at Amazon is $105.58 on Prime (free shipping), I got mine from Walmart 4 months ago for $75 delivered. Oh, watch for Prime Day Sales on it starting tomorrow.


FYI, It is not as big or heavy as it looks.



Hope that helps,

Dave

 

You want low noise on the power supply and 13.4? VDC. A battery charger won't give you that. Attached is Jaguar recommended power supply and recommended amperage based on vehicle. I use the Astron RM50 and have no issues with it.

 

is there a special procedure to end diagnostic session?

i could not start my car after running SDD and reading DTC for headlights, Car just would not start, no clicking noise nothing, i had to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and then connect it back and car started just fine.

 

Yes there is. In the top right corner you see a tab entitled "Sessions". Click on it and select end session. If all you did was read codes, disconnecting SDD without ending the session shouldn't have caused the problem. I suspect a poor battery connection and you fixed it by disconnecting and reconnecting the terminals. I believe when you disconnect before properly ending a session, you will be prompted to resume that session the next time. I would suggest doing that and then ending it correctly.

My statement applies to a session where you have only read codes.