Alternator failure en route
I had taken the car out for a drive with a friend on a beautiful day only to get a battery not charging message not too far from home. I switched off the lights, A/C, radio etc. After getting an alarming constellation of warning messages for what I assume is just about every system in the car the cockpit blacked out, gauges pegged at zero and throttle response got really sluggish but we got it home. I worry about any other incidental damage that may have occurred as a result. Aside from a new alternator that I've already ordered are there any other issues I should look at? Has anyone else encountered a similar situation? I was able to recharge the battery overnight and start it up for a few minutes and everything seemed to be operating normally aside from some coolant leaking from somewhere. I replaced the rear flange, pump and thermostat a few months back and haven't had any leaks since then so this seems to be a new leak that I suspect is related given the timing.
Use a voltmeter to check the available battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position for at least 30 minutes. If the voltmeter indicates less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, replace the battery.
If the alternator is indeed not charging, remove it and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul it. Many of the units available from parts houses end up not working correctly leaving an instrument cluster warning on.
If the alternator is indeed not charging, remove it and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul it. Many of the units available from parts houses end up not working correctly leaving an instrument cluster warning on.
Use a voltmeter to check the available battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position for at least 30 minutes. If the voltmeter indicates less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, replace the battery.
If the alternator is indeed not charging, remove it and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul it. Many of the units available from parts houses end up not working correctly leaving an instrument cluster warning on.
If the alternator is indeed not charging, remove it and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul it. Many of the units available from parts houses end up not working correctly leaving an instrument cluster warning on.
Use a voltmeter to check the available battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position for at least 30 minutes. If the voltmeter indicates less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, replace the battery.
If the alternator is indeed not charging, remove it and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul it. Many of the units available from parts houses end up not working correctly leaving an instrument cluster warning on.
If the alternator is indeed not charging, remove it and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul it. Many of the units available from parts houses end up not working correctly leaving an instrument cluster warning on.
Why are you using an AGM battery?
Edit - it looks like the 5.0 uses an AGM battery - I would fit the same battery as OE fitment - whether its SLA or AGM - I would not use a Solid State battery as the alternator is not designed for one of these.
Edit - it looks like the 5.0 uses an AGM battery - I would fit the same battery as OE fitment - whether its SLA or AGM - I would not use a Solid State battery as the alternator is not designed for one of these.
Last edited by ericmcn; Oct 29, 2025 at 02:14 PM.
Most recent battery is an AGM (900 CCV). No voltage where I store the car. After full charge to 13.2 (where I have access to 110), battery doesn't drain as fast. Typically 12.6 after 2 weeks. I was slightly disappointed that it wasn't higher but no problems starting and driving. The last battery was lead acid (good brand, 2 years old, full charge 13.2). After 2 weeks, typically 12.3. Car started fine but consensus in here seems to be that 12.6 is a minimum.
There's no rocket science with batteries really - for a SLA at least the voltage has to be around 14V when the vehicle is moving - 13. something to 14 . Something or whatever
When the car is turned off it should be over 12V and when cranked it should not drop too much.. I don't know what the exact figure is maybe 10V or something.. if it drops to 5V or something it's shot.
When the car is turned off it should be over 12V and when cranked it should not drop too much.. I don't know what the exact figure is maybe 10V or something.. if it drops to 5V or something it's shot.
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That aside, my Veepak connected to the gauge app always says “OBD Volts” and it swings between 13.1-13.6ish.
If you drive it frequently you should not need a charger hooked up - I have one hot wired to the rear aux outlet but you dont need to have it charged up each day - if you are not using it for long periods well thats a different story.
LOL wife in trunk. I don't think mine would agree. Interesting on volts. Have a cigarette lighter plug in voltage measure. Always shows 14.2-14.4 Having problems getting Fusion and OBD wireless connect so can't confirm. Hope you're enjoying the new car.
Hmmm, my 2007 used to always read 14+ while driving. I noticed yesterday that it only reading 13+. Something I’ll need to investigate next spring.
No issues..no warnings...
My new alternator runs 14.3. Steady....
be nice to only charge once a month..
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BlackJag90
XF and XFR ( X250 )
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Jun 23, 2025 09:15 PM
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