The transmission temps can be read via the OBD2 port. You need to use the Torque Pro App not the free version.

 

I know that ..... but the OP's garage is supposedly using a computer to read the fluid level.

Richard

 

I can't imagine how. Nothing but the feed pipe connects to the sump, and it looks like it's just plain plastic with no sensors or connectors. Certainly the temp can be read, as well as the pressure in multiple locations, as well as the speed with with the many valves activate. But no level-measuring sensor that I can see. Maybe they meant fluid temperature, which is certainly readable electronically. But I may be wrong, and there's something not visible.

 

Thanks to all of you guys for the great inputs !
WELL HERE"S THE STORY.
As advised I got the appointment for the fluid change from the OFFICIAL JAGUAR SERVICE CENTRE /DEALER close to my place.
After a 70 kms drive , I reached the place .
They lifted the car and drained the fluid from the plug which amounted to 3.9 L which took around 3 hrs.
They further put 5 L of fluid in .
They were checking the fluid temp with the diagnostic software the've got ,through the obd 2 port.
I was told that the temps are too high at 60 .They need to wait for things to cool down . I was asked to leave the car overnight.
Naturally after being armed with all the knowledge you all have given me , I was not happy with the way they were doing things.
THE NEXT DAY.
I called them about the status ,was told the car is ready and I can come to get her.
I reached there and enquired with the technician regarding the procedure for the fluid change .
He said he did start the car the next day and changed gears , subsequently he checked the fluid level .
Man I dont know what to make of all this .
I drove to my place from the dealership , 70 kms . The drive waas uneventfull
What do you people reckon ?

Dr Ali

 

It all comes down to your phrase "He said he did start the car the next day and changed gears , subsequently he checked the fluid level."

If he checked the level with the engine still running following the gear changes, then that is the correct procedure. If he checked the fluid level after stopping the engine then that is a disaster waiting to happen.

How much of the 6 litres of new fluid is now left in the bottles? It sounds as if they put in 3.9 + 5 = 8.9 litres in. Are you sure that this is what they said? I though they only had 6 litres? I'm not sure that 8.9 litres is even possible using the normal sump drain procedure but will leave others to comment.

Assuming that there has been some misunderstanding about the amount of new fluid actually used, the most obvious mistake they might have made is to run the engine, do the gear changes and then check the level with the engine still running but not leaving it running long enough to reach the correct temperature range. If that were the case, I wouldn't worry about it as the temperature check is not critical and a slight variation in level will not cause any problems.

Richard

 

Richard , they did not put back the 3.9 L old fluid .They only put in 5 L of new fluid after draining the old fluid . They did start the engine though . All this on day 1.
The temps were at 60 when they said they cant check the level that day.
The next day they informed me they had checked the level after starting the engine and doing the gear changes . Thats all hearsay , I cant be sure what they did.
anyway this is what transpired.
Thanks !

 

I understand. I would call the garage to double check that they still have 1 litre of unused fluid left.

Did they change the sump pan and filter assembly for a new one?

If they still have 1 litre of fluid left that means the most they can have put in would be 5 litres. I do not believe that is sufficient fluid if the sump and filter assembly was changed and you will experience problems in due course.

If the sump was not removed/replaced, then it is likely that 5 litres would be sufficient to refill the system but others would have to comment as I have never changed the fluid without removing the sump.

Richard

 

They did'nt change the pan and filter. They have 1L of fluid with them .Funny when i enquired about the pan and filter , they said no it doesn't need any of that.
So in conclusion they just took out 3.9 l of fluid and put 5 L of new fluid in the tranny.
Man I am so afraid right now .
I tried to discuss with them about the procedure n all n about the pan and filter change too , but this is what they did.

 

At the jag service centre



Washing

The next day after the fluid change

Driving back

 

From what you say, I wouldn't worry too much.

Measuring the fluid taken out can be tricky as some usually gets spilled so that figure is probably an estimate. The most important figure is how much new fluid they put back in as that should be done without any meaningful losses. My instinct tells me that 5 litres of new fluid without changing the pan and filter is probably about right. It would be great if someone else can confirm this although, as most people change the pan and filter at the same time, there might not be anyone with actual experience.

Ultimately, it would should not be too expensive to take the car to another garage and ask them to put the car on the lift and, with the engine running, simply remove the level plug and just check that a trickle of fluid comes out. If it does, the just put the plug back and breathe a sigh of relief. Don't worry about the actual fluid temperature as being out of range is not critical.

Richard

 

Thanks Richard!

Am gonna do that as soon as the opportunity comes.
fingers crossed till then

 

Pedoc, I agree with Richard. If you don't (edit -panthera) drop the pan, you usually get 5L out, so it being the first change, 4L isn't bad assuming they were not accurate about measuring it. Did you see the fluid, and if so, what color was it?*

Also, no pan change, 5L fill is not unusual. Still, have a trusted guy put it on a lift with the cool transmission running and see if any drips out the fill port. If not, top it up without letting it get too warm, until it drips out. Should be a half hour to do this, even with a cup of coffee.

Of more concern is why the heck did the job take three hours? Were they letting it cool before the change? I hope you weren't billed that much. Just a drain and fill is less than a hour for me if it's on a lift.

* for those who're wondering, I refreshed mine after 78K miles, and it was in excellent condition -- very light brown. Black, or worse, burnt smelling fluid means the tranny has been driven hard, so just make a note of the color if you have the fluid changed.

 

After reading your description of the process they followed, relax and enjoy the car. Your job is done. I agree with the shop. @ 14k you don't need a new pan and filter. Breathe easy.

 

@panthera999 The fluid was good in quality and and near about colourless with a mild brownish or reddish tinge.
I think the 3 hrs they took included making the job card ,hoisting the car, preping the bottles , 15 mins with fidgeting to open the drain plug with the right tools , ultimately they broke it!.
The actual time was about 1.5 hrs I think .Then the hooking to the OBD for temp checking of the tranny.
Thanks for reassurance man.
@Sean W I appreciate the advice Sean , coming from you.It does give me some peace of mind regarding this tranny episode.

Thanks!

 

I recently had my transmission fluid changed at a top rated independent transmission shop. It took 9.5 qts to fill it. I inquired why so much, most guys are using only 6 qts. They told me that they pumped out all the fluid they could including in the torque converter, they also let it drain overnight. New sleeve and pan, fill and follow service manual procedure, that’s what it took. The difference between 6 and 9 1/2 is if the torque converter is drained, I’m told. That sounds about right but I’m not an experienced mechanic. Im happy to spend a few more dollars to change all the fluid they could get out.

 

The total fill is spec'd at 9.5L, including the torque converter and the cooler loop (if there is one). Any chance you could ask them how they drained the fluid from the torque converter? Something I always wanted to do but could never find the instructions. It's a question all ZF owners have who do their own work, so if they have a method that works, love to hear it. The only way I've found to get extra out of the unit is to drop the mechatronics. Only 7 bolts, but be careful -- that mecha is one surprisingly heavy bugger, and you really don't want to drop it on concrete. Also, at 100K, it's a good idea to change the 5 rubber interfaces between the mecha and the main section. Doing that requires removing the mecha --and doing so still doesn't get all the old fluid out -- just 1/2L or so.. BTW, what did they charge you per L of LG6 tranny fluid? Thanks.

 

I will ask next time I stop in there.
I almost don’t want to put this out there because I could be total wrong. I’m not skilled or experienced in this, someone more knowledgeable then I needs to confirm this. From other conversations and research my understanding is there is an access point in the bell housing that allows you to see the torque converter. The torque converter has a drain plug that can be found by having the car in neutral and slowly turning the main crank, I have no idea how that is accomplished. When you find it, it can be removed and drained. I attempted to find a picture of the access point in the bell housing, see the picture below for what I believe could be that access point.
Can someone confirm this?

 

I don't remember exactly where I got this on draining the torque converter:

 

that's a Mercedes transmission and you can drain fluid at the TC on those models. On the ZF, shops disconnect the lines and run the fluid through for a full flush, but even they don't recommend it. drain and fill is their process. You could do that (drain and fill) every few hundred miles and would likely have removed all the old fluid.

 

Here's a crazy idea, non-mechanically inclined individuals have sworn by the turkey baster method of some other fluid changes, believing after time this method will eventually have replaced all old fluid with new. For those with higher mileage or afraid of issues with a full fluid change or flush, could one simply drain, measure and replace equivalent fluid a couple of litres at a time?