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OK put me in the camp of "don't fix what isn't broken" on this one.
Boots are completely destroyed on my XKR and x351 XJ. So I figured I'd do 8 all around. The first ball joint was tough to remove but got through it. On the second wheel, the 5mm hex on the ball joint stripped. So now I am left hoping I can cut with a wheel to remove this.
There's nothing quite like preventative maintenance turning into actual maintenance. These bolts are probably seized up so unless you're replacing parts that are failing, don't bother messing with it.
cut the top off and grip with vice grips, impact off
Just an FYI for anyone needing to replace just your boost covers... I ordered from the ebay place in Bulgaria about 17 days ago and they already arrived in my mailbox. Also if you need the coil insulators, Welsh by far has best price and ask them for the $10 off first time customer. Sadly on my 2012 XK with under 50K miles the insulators were crumbling apart. Instead of ordering covers for the sway links i just ordered the links. Boot covers for control arms 13x30x22 and for tie rod 15x30x23 (per bigbaddog)
i just got one out of a wrecked 2015 xf with no miles for 30 bucks. has the latest casting and black ball joint boots
That's what Iikely end up doing. First will cut a notch and try that, and then next will try splitting the nut. If nothing then it's new control arm time.
OK put me in the camp of "don't fix what isn't broken" on this one.
Boots are completely destroyed on my XKR and x351 XJ. So I figured I'd do 8 all around. The first ball joint was tough to remove but got through it. On the second wheel, the 5mm hex on the ball joint stripped. So now I am left hoping I can cut with a wheel to remove this.
There's nothing quite like preventative maintenance turning into actual maintenance. These bolts are probably seized up so unless you're replacing parts that are failing, don't bother messing with it.
Its a T30 torx not 5mm hex at the front, if it's a lemforder/OEM arm, that's why it has rounded off (if I have understood you correctly).
I peered inside and they are definitely hex and not torx on mine. Maybe they updated it in later models
That's interesting, and yes almost certainly from 2009 MY they were all T30. I was reading the Rusty Nut Bible recently (it's average, don't bother) and apparently the TORX was invented in 1967 as a result of internal hex being prone to rounding off.
That's interesting, and yes almost certainly from 2009 MY they were all T30. I was reading the Rusty Nut Bible recently (it's average, don't bother) and apparently the TORX was invented in 1967 as a result of internal hex being prone to rounding off.
It is possible that I have aftermarket control arms, replaced before my ownership.
My 07 xkr has 5mm hex as well, but that would align with your 09 and after
Can anyone point to any new vendors selling the boots? Seems like the original vendor in the original post has stopped transacting on ebay.
I usually buy the split universal gaiters which come in a pack with small, medium and large. You don't need to split the ball joint, which can sometimes be the most difficult part of the operation. The included tube of superglue means the gaiter can be quickly replaced in situ.
Just to ad to this very relevent but older thread. When discussing the "evaporation" of our suspension boots to a number of service people at Jaguar...They told me that cars that were still under warranty when owners discovered this flaw, were refused replacement of these inferior boots or suspension parts. How's that for spending big bucks for a car lacking a warranty for inferior parts? Regardless, I was also told over and over, that the suspension parts on our cars should last quite some time (without the protection of the boots) before failure. Apparently that might be the case for those that use their cars sparingly. Presently, I'm living with my "perished" boots as my car has 15,000 miles. Hopefully, the joints and ball joints will hold their own for some time before they fail.
Last edited by bocatrip; May 22, 2023 at 09:59 AM.
i recently ordered all of the boots to replace them on the tie bar and drop links, i ordered direct from Polyboots website and they fedex the items over so you have them in a couple of days, they did mention that they might be opening up another ebay store sometime in the future, i used all of the sizes listed above but i also ordered a 17 31 25.5 from this seller "https://www.ebay.com/itm/314308891050" which worked for the inner boot on the tie rod..
I managed to do all of these without the need to inject the grease after the fact and leave a hole in the boot, simply clean out all of the old grease when the old boot is removed and then smear a small amount of new onto the joint and slip the new boot on, as long as the excess grease is wiped off where the boot sits you should be fine.
Many of the joints like those on the control arms.
Can be taken apart to install the new boots. EverTough, part number, 67008, Tie Rod End Remover..
Works great removing the metal plate.
After carefully removing the ring on top,.clean out old grease.
Install new boot with clean grease, then the plate with ring.
I tried polyboots awhile back and thought these boots for our cars were no longer available. Glad to hear they still are. I'm still driving around with "perished" boots and 15,000 miles on car. Waiting for signs of wear on joints, before undertaking replacement.
Are Polyboots still available for our XKs? I tried to order some for my front ball joints when I received a message saying that they no longer send out to retail customers. . Anyone else find that they are no longer available for retail customers in the US?
I can't believe the condition of these silicon-like boots. They're nearly all perished at 24K miles and eight (8) years. After doing some research, it appears these boots are simply made of inferior materials and deteriorate simply because of age. A couple of members have determined it is best to simply let the part wear out, as opposed to replacing the boot. Their logic is that the joint itself seems to wear for quite a long time even without the protection of the boot.
I am going to replace the rear upper control arm boots because I already have a couple of new ones, and like the fronts they are relatively easy to replace. size 13-30-22.
The rear tie rod is easy to access and after pulling out the bolt and cleaning it up, I could measure for a replacement boot. 15-30-23 and order four (4) each, top and bottom on both sides of car. $13 shipped for all from Polyboots (above).
However, on the sway bar links, I just ordered a new pair. They're pretty cheap at about $25 ea. for Lemforders from Rock Auto
Link. Stabilizer. Bar. Right Part Number: $20 each at Rock Auto
Right: C2D49528
Left: C2D49529
Tie Rod Link: Both C2D51044 - two (x2) I used replacement boots as noted above.
See my post on here I did the back end on my 2008, you can get a kit for the upper, lower, drop link and track rod from British car parts. I also used this to do the rear brake lines and hubs as one was grumbling. I replaced most bolts just remember the 4 x copper crush washer for the brakes. Its doable in about 6 hours a side and now I know everything is new and better than before and I cna feel the difference when driving
I just received an email from Polyboots that the minimum fed ex shipping charge for any order starts at 40 Euros (48 US dollars). I wanted two boots for the front upper control arm ball joints for my 2010 Jag xk. Does anyone else know of any other distributor that offers these boots or is polyboots with the new expensive shipping charge the only way to go?
Anyone know of another distributor selling the covers we need? 13-30-22 for front upper ball joints? Polyboots has not been very responsive when I have contacted them. I would love the specs on any of the suspension covers that can be physically done without replacing the actual entire suspension part. Thanks all.
