Hey guys,

My 07 has been acting odd lately.

Posted earlier about the failed start one day and the subsequent parking aid failure after start up and has stayed for the past week.

Went out of town over the weekend 160 miles each way and a few more things popped up. Nice trip to Dubuque, IA and went through Galena on the way which are the closest thing to mountains we have in Illinois.

On the way back I had the cruise kick out and the radar sensor blocked message came up. Stopped for gas and all was fine after the restart.
I did a search on that and found it is an issue and more prone to happen on silver models.

Also had a weird intermittent noise coming from the area around steering wheel. Kinda sounded like when you hold a blade of grass between your fingers an blow. Didn't happen on the way there but it was windy on the ride home. It was very random and momentary and didn't seem to depend on wheel position. It hasn't happened since but haven't been driving at highway speeds either.

Last, left my shop today to find both drive and passenger windows were fully open. 99.9999% sure I didn't put them down when I parked it and they were up on the drive there.

So I guess my first question is has anyone else experienced any of these issues?

I do have a CTek MUS 4300 I use to maintain the battery on the weekends as it is a daily driver for me. Not a long trip to the shop, 6 miles each way.

Also not sure of the age of the battery as it was not marked when installed but looks new, why wouldn't it where it's installed. Lead Acid not AGM, interstate MP-93 I believe.

Was thinking about disconnecting the battery and resting the computer that way but may just upgrade to AGM for ease of mind and see if it corrects the parking fault and windows. Only happened once so far with the windows so not sure if that's an issue. Just know on the XK100 series if the widows dropped it usually indicated a failing battery. Never had them open all the way though.

The CTek I bought has the battery/alternator test system and hasn't indicated any issues with the battery as it is always on 7 when I go to disconnect in the morning.

Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.

 

Nothing useful to add - just that i've got a silver '07 XK, and am currently dealing with some battery issues. i've had some gremlins, but not any of the ones you described: ACM dropped, display fails to leave the logo screen. As the battery was dying, had the windshield wipers going intermittently, and the running lights come on. Not sure if i need a mechanic or an exorcist, but want to follow this thread to see if i can learn anything! Good luck!

____________________

My Rides:

'07 Jag XK --> My mistress. She brings me joy, looks gorgeous and costs me a lot of money

'83 Jeep CJ-7 --> My soul mate. Rebuilt in '97, this one knows me better than i know myself. i'm going to be buried in this one.

'91 Suzuki VX 800 --> The bad boy. He's bigger, and faster, than i need, but i can't help myself. This one's going to hurt me...

'05 Honda Civic --> My husband. This one takes me to work, the grocery, and wherever i need to be. He doesn't bitch when i don't shave my legs, reliable as the sunrise and butt ugly.

 

If you have a digital multimeter, check the voltage across the battery terminals before you start it, with the ignition off, after the car has been resting overnight (WITHOUT the charger). Anything under about 12.25 volts is a good indicator that you need a new battery.

 

Unless you are sure of the age of your battery and its condition, I would replace it. The XK is an amazingly reliable car IF it has full battery voltage. When it does not, all sorts of weird and seemingly unrelated issue come up - they can be in the touch screen, windows, electric roof, seats, warning lights, cruise control...and they are all caused by a battery at under-par condition.
The proof of this, in a way, is a negative proof. People who know the condition of their batteries and use a CTEK unit *always*, not just once or twice a week, have no issues at all. I offer my own 07 as an example. There is, nevertheless, a reluctance on the part of some to accept this. This is the sort of thing that allows CR (I cannot bring myself to name it fully) to claim that Jaguars have "electrical issues" and "reliability problems". They are in fact, more reliable than most other cars on the road including their luxury rivals - who have the same electrical malfunctions, and who also (meaning, like Jaguar) market the CTEK chargers under their own brand name - they do this because their cars also need full voltage to power all the electronic gadgetry.

 

Did a quick voltage check about 1.5 hrs after coming home and voltage was 12.63 then dropped to 12.62 shortly after that. Just want to establish a baseline as I will check in the morning before heading to work.

Sov, I do agree these are very reliable cars as I drove my 97 daily for 8yrs.
But in this series with the increased electrical requirements I have had more odd things happen that seem to be either software related or poor testing of the system before being put into use. I say this as I never had to have a charger to maintain the 97 and no electrical issues with the same battery for 5 yrs+, so just my opinion.

Also it's the same exact battery I had in my 97 and with the increased demand I am surprised they didn't add an extra battery for the additional load, Infotainment, etc.

The other concern I have is that most of the gremlins I've noticed are on days after the CTEK was used. My setup is connected directly to the battery using the ring terminals and the convenience cable installed for easier connection. The unit progresses through the stages properly and is 7 is illuminated when I go to disconnect. My drive takes about 15 minutes but I let it warm up first so car is on about 20 minutes each way everyday. I guess I will try to use the CTEK everyday and see if that corrects it but had the below happen yesterday after using the CTEK but no issues today.

A couple more gremlins I noticed is I use the black door button to lock the car and a few times got the double beep as the car thinks something is open even though everything is closed. If I use the FOB it locks fine and flashes the lights. This is only in the last few weeks as I have had this car for 5 months now.

Also had a smart key not detected a couple times but the car recognized it shortly there after and all was fine. Always keep in same pocket when I drive so not sure. FOB battery was replaced 2 mo. ago as I got the FOB battery low message.

Ahh technology, when done properly is a great thing but when done poorly is often a nightmare.

Don't get me wrong as I love the car but learning what issues to look for and post when I have concerns that may help other members in the future.

I use the search beforehand and found the Adative Cruise Control issue was documented and not a large concern to me as I rarely use.

Just wondering if the battery disconnect reset would help clear up the issues much like rebooting a computer to clear it out as we have 23 or so processors in these cats. After the no start I had maybe it corrupted something as I have the resulting park aid failure and can't think of anything that would have caused that unless it blew a sensor or the module. Or will it cause more problems?

 

Checked this morning and battery was at 12.49 then same thing as before it dropped to 12.48 and stayed there.

I'll check again after driving home then again the following morning.

Any thoughts on the reset by disconnecting the battery?

I know with smartphones if they start acting up just shut them off and power back on. With our cats it's a little different as they are always on and the only truly way to shut down is to remove the power.

I'm leaning towards the no-start as the culprit as the gremlins started appearing after that happened. However, I had no issues today which is 2 days in a row, other than the persistent Parking Aid Unavailable.

 

Checked when I got home before I locked the car and 12.27 and kept dropping slowly to 12.24.

1.5 hrs later 12.53 and dropped to 12.52 and stayed there.

I'll check in the morning and see what it is after sitting overnight.

 

Check each day before leaving for work and was at 12.45 the rest of the week. Threw it on the CTEK yesterday and unplugged a few minutes ago. Checked voltage and was at 12.90 so I'm leaning towards Gremlins.

No issues this week so not sure what caused the prior ones. Battery seems fine so will just disconnect to reset system. Maybe that will clear up the park aid fault unless something did go wrong with it.

 

Did a battery disconnect today and no go on the park aid unavailable.

Just did the negative and left disconnected for 1/2 hr. Didn't loose my radio presets, but had to do the park brake and window reset along with the clock.

Noticed there is a battery back up and I guess your supposed to disconnect the positive cable for 10 minutes to drain.

Battery Disconnect/Connect Procedures
WARNING: The backup power supply energy must be depleted before any supplementary restraint system repairs are
carried out. To deplete the backup supply energy, first disconnect the battery ground cable, then disconnect the battery
positive cable and wait ten minutes to avoid accidental deployment and personal injury. Failure to follow this instruction
may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: Disconnecting the battery cables will cause all of the electronic control modules to lose all stored
data/fault codes.

Looked at the manual and apparently the park aid system is not fused so the only thing I can think of is the no-start actually damaged the park assist module. So make sure to keep your foot on the pedal until the car is fully started.

Guess I'll have to take to the dealer to determine if it's the module or a sensor but really surprised there is no protection for the module. Unless I need to disconnect both cables and drain the backup to reset the module.

 

The best reset is: disconnect both battery cables, then touch them together to drain any backup capacitors, etc. in the modules.

 

Really, touch together. Didn't see that just the wait ten minutes.

 

I take it you loose the home-link and the rest of the settings when you do that. Anything else I should be aware of like the convertible top. I saw where some people had issues when doing a battery swap.

 

Here's the full post-battery-removal checklist:

1. Connect the battery cables and tighten to 5 Nm. Ground cable must be connected last.
2. Install the battery cover and close the luggage compartment lid.
3. Start the engine and allow to idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
(n.b.: when you first switch on, the display will ask you to press the brake pedal & apply the electronic handbrake, to recalibrate)
4. Switch the engine off.
5. Restart the engine and allow to idle for approximately two minutes (this will allow the ECM to learn the idle values).
6. Apply and hold the brake pedal, select drive and allow the engine to idle for a further two minutes.
7. Drive the vehicle for approximately five miles/eight kilometres of varied driving to enable the ECM to complete its learning strategy.
8. Reset the audio unit and climate control assembly to original customer settings.
9. Reset the door window motors (wind down & hold until there's a click, wind up & hold for another click).
(n.b. store your current seat positions in M1, then adjust & store any other positions you used to have)

 

I have the jagdocs manual and I saw that along with the sticky of yours they added so thanks.

Just never saw anything about touching the cables together to drain the capacitors.
May just do a battery swap as I wasn't sure of the age of the battery. Seems fine but non AGM.

 

Touching the cables is an empirical observation from other people's experience. From an electrical/electronic background, it makes sense. You short out the backup supplies that some modules use to retain their parameters between operating sessions, including any that maybe corrupted. when re-powered, they reload a fresh copy of the software and parameter maps