Hello has anyone tried using a remote control battery disconnect switch? Yet again after leaving a car sit for no more than three weeks the battery was dead. I have tested this issue extensively in the past and can only come to the conclusion that this car really has a poorly designed/overly demanding power system when it is sitting idle for, like I said, no more than two or three weeks.
I try to make sure I hit the door lock button always after shutting the engine down, but still this remains an issue. My battery is a 1000 amp AGM and there is nothing wrong with it I’ve had it tested professionally.
I have not tried to pull one fuse out at a time to see where the drain is occurring but now I am at a point where I just want to install a wireless remote disconnect. Just thought I would run it by you guys see if anybody has done this before.

 

If you had your AGM battery load tested and it's OK, then how do you know if it's being sufficiently charged when you're driving the car? Is it usually driven daily?

Have you had your alternator tested?

How do you know if your AGM battery was fully charged before you let your car sit for 3 weeks? It could have been low when you left it, and depleted by the alarm system, a faulty module, or aftermarket accessories.

 

I have been driving the car prior and everything was fine, but I was using it more regularly. I can check the alternator but I am near 100% certain this is not the issue. I thought I had read on this site once prior that disconnecting the battery for to too long of a time will lock out the ECM or something. This is the only thing I am concerned about in adding a remote disconnect.

 

Just to clarify the battery was tested at 1000 amps, it obviously is not a 1000 amp battery.

 

I had one on my old F150. I chased after an intermittent drain for dozens and dozens of hours. No Joy.
I stuck on one of those Automatic Disconnectors that disconnect the battery if under 12.2 volts or whatever. It saved my *** many many times. A total pain to reset everything inside, but I could actually DRIVE it.

 

Yea - I don't mind the resetting clock...if it saves from me having to deal with a dead battery in the trunk of this car. I just don't want to have the car not start due to an ECM losing its memory or something if it is an extended period.

 

This is the one I bought. I did remove it from the truck when I sold it in case I need it for somewhere else:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Cee Jay,
Check that link. It didn't work for me.
Stuart

 

This is the one I am going to put on.

 

My experience with a used AGM in a 4.2 car has shown it should last 3-4 weeks but not be completely flat. Some members have posted that after leaving the car sit for many months without a battery they've had issues with starting or other malfunctions though there's not enough data to confirm a correlation.

Why not simply use a CTEK?

 

Honestly - I guess I want to do a little experimenting. I am going to try the disconnect first and see how long the battery voltage holds up. I have good trickle chargers that should be sufficient and as winter nears I will certainly use them. I don't believe having the battery disconnected will cause an issue because I had the car in a barn for a time and I know it was likely completely drained for a few months over the winter. It started up fine once I got the battery out and charged it. I just didn't plug one this last time thinking surely 3 weeks would not be a problem. I think the voltage was at around 4-5 volts when I checked it at first. It is unbelievable to me that after this short of time though it requires putting on a charger period, but it is what it is. My 2004 caddy can sit for months at a time with no issue as all cars I have ever owned were the same. But I do have a pretty cool Jaguar and so it is worth it. Thanks though!

 

I tried it on three browsers, all worked okay for me. Even the ones I wasn't logged in on.
Anyway, this one:


I don't know about that GMURA one though, it looks kind of wimpy to me. What is the load capacity of those connectors and wires?

 

Your link worked for me. On the one I am going to use, it’s rated at 180amps (peak I assume) so I think no issue. Cable size looks to be the same as car battery cables but I would have to check.

 

Most V8 starters draw 200+ amps, so maybe that one is only on the Accessory Ground, and not the chassis ground. But then again, a ground is a ground. Seriously, I don't know the schematics or theory of the 180 Amp one, so I can't really speak to its use.

 

Link worked for me.

 

Thanks for the info. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

As a clarification on the switch, the rating is as follows:
Rated current 180A, rated voltage 12V, instantaneous current: 450A.

 

Priority Start looks like a great idea. However disconnect voltage is 11.7. Great quick save to protect battery from electrical problems. How does this solve the slow drain over multiple weeks? My car barely started w voltage at 11.9 Seems like disconnect at higher voltage like 12.2 would be more useful.

 

My disconnector worked at 12.2V on my old F150. It started every time. I can't remember which brand it was though.

 

Make and fit a solar battery charger. Solved all my battery problems.
see: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0/#post2589237

JT