I had my Jag in at the dealer for an airbag light which turned out to be the passenger seat belt buckle. After two weeks of waiting for the repair I pick it up and now the heater/ac motor suddenly doesn't work!

They state it's a $1,700 repair for the fan motor and resistor!! I'm wondering why all of sudden it goes out on their watch and why the hell the repair is so costly.

Anyone have this motor go out?

 

I just had my blower stop. I ran power direct to the motor and the motor was good. The Blower motor control modules seems to be the culprit, this may be the same problem you are encountering.

70$ and two screws is all that holds it in place.

More Information for AIRTEX / WELLS 4P1652

Additionally this link below may be of some assistance with diagnosing.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...tioning-36420/


Regards,
Derek Fricke

 

Thanks!!

 

My apologies Dan. As noticed on the other thread the Airtex may be incorrect. Appears to be the same in photo. Not sure if it was a faulty unit that the other member received.
RockAuto does list two different suppliers Airtex is the only on in stock there.

I'm going to give Airtex a call in the morning and see what they say. I'll let you know.

Regards,
Derek Fricke

 

Called Airtek about the RockAuto Airtek #. The tech didn't have a vehicle listing in their system for the part.
It's likely it was just a faulty part, as per my experience with RockAuto their parts are accurate.

I'll follow up with tech at Jaguar to verify if they know anything about the Airtek part.

 

For Warning. Replaced my Blower control and it seems that wasn't the culprit. -225$

Possibility it is the relay in my case. R1 at the middle fuse box between rear seats. I'll need give that a try.

 

Update, my R1 relay is good. After speaking with a tech, it appears the Blower motor control module when replaced has to be programmed...? I've never seen this personally. 115$ or so to programmed and diagnose at Charlotte Jag.

I need to buy the IDS module for future.

 

The blower control module doesn't require a programming, it's just a transistor on a heat sink.
Check if a blower motor itself is good, by appling a 12V to it's socket. Check a 40Amp F34 fuse in a fuse block behind a rear seat. Had you checked a relay by swapping it? Try to connect a leads nr3 and nr5 of the relay and check if the motor will run.
Check for a power on a blue wire of the blower control module socket.

 

Thanks Moscow.

I didn't think the ecm was impacted either. My only guess is there is a soft code for the AC that was thrown. The earlier models you could access the PID for AC through the display screen. Seems 07 and up , you can only access those through the IDS. I'm thinking maybe this code has to be cleared.

I ran 12v to the motor and it kicks on. Which led me to believe its the relay. Tested that and it seems fine. I'm going to stop at Jag tomorrow and get a new relay to try and speak with the tech in person. My only other guess is maybe the motor is drawing too many amps due to the moisture that was present.

I'll hopefully gather more info tomorrow. Thanks for the info.

Regards,
Derek Fricke

 

If the CCM detects a failure of a blower/blower CM (it can detect a failure if it is not reciving a signal on a feedback line) it will set a code. The CCM will clear a code ( a code will became history code) as soon as a failure is fixed.
Ok, if the moror kicks in then the motor is fine.
Check if there's a constant 12V on a white wire of the blower motor socket. 12V should be always present if the ignition is on. If there's no 12V - it a fuse/relay or junction box failure.
Are you able to change a climate settings like a temp (the climate should work even w/o a blower)? If you are not - check a 15Amp F6 fuse in a CJB (the one behind a LH trim panel in a footwell)
Usually the moisture becomes a problem if the A/C drain is clogged, but after that the motor and blower CM will be soaked in a water and, usually, a blower becomes jammed. If the motor is able to run, the moisture is not a reason of a failure.

 

Thanks for the info on the CCM. 10V present at blower motor when ignition on at blower motor socket/plug. When plug is connected to blower motor, voltage drops to zero. Assuming there is a short in the blower. However seems odd, that when I run 12 volts direct to the blower when it is taken out of housing, it runs properly.
The AC controls function properly. When I power on and off the climate control, voltage of 10V runs to plug and 0V when climate is off.

Thanks again.
Derek

 

Are you measuring a voltage by putting both of the poles to the socket? Then that's normal reading. The relay and fuse are good. Assuming that the blower CM module is new and good (but i've seen new and bad modules) there may be a problem with grounding, since the motor recives a constant positive 12V and a blower CM supplies a negative.
Check a ground point G10AL at the base of a RH A post, and AC001 socket (location is shown here - https://yadi.sk/i/KfKjH3LBiEW5n )

 

Solved! Thanks again for your assistance.

Seems these factory control modules can be faulty. This may have been the error with the previous unit a member bought from RockAuto.

The new BMCM that I installed apparently was bad. Jaguar tech just installed another and everything is working now. Luckily they are swapping at no charge.

Next step is to use my inspection scope and cut the drain grommet to prevent future condensation concerns.

Regards,
Derek Fricke

 

Keep us posted on how that goes!

 

Well, it happens sometimes that the new parts are bad. That's why i prefer to repair a blower CM instead of replacing it (transistor costs a 3-5$ an usually it is the only failing part).
Glad to hear that the fault is fixed.

 

Exactly. Keeping the old one as a backup.

 

So did you use the OEM BCM or the one from Rock Auto?


Thanks

 

Derek, please keep us updated on your fix for the drain grommet. I think I will try this one as well in the near future.
I'm off to trouble shoot my blower issue today and I appreciate everyone's input!

 

I tackled the issue today and it turned out to be the BCM. The fan and fuse were fine.
I jumped the BCM and the fan came on and was able to change the speed.

After taking apart the BCM I found that the TCO was bad and was able to locate one at FRY's that fit with only a slight modification.

Unfortunately after de-soldering and soldering it looks like I have damaged the MOSFET chip so I lost control of fan speed but it blows at about 80% which is fine for Houston! At least I can drive the car again.

At this point I'm going to go ahead and buy the replacement AIRTEX unit from RockAuto to see if it works. Fortunately the replacement is very simple so I should know in a week if it works.

Thanks to everyone for their help with this!

 

I replaced my old BCM with the Airtex 4P1652 and it works perfectly fine! It's nice to know that the dealer wanted $1,700 and I was able to fix it for $70! They lost a customer for good!!!