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XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Blown front strut?

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  #61  
Old 07-08-2017, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50 View Post
Most likely the bars or tie rods were hitting something as the suspension articulated. Still, last thing first. How would a loose internal strut not make noise when you hit the brakes?

Review the X150 service manual, pages 158 on for a better understanding of how it all works. The strut just guides the spring and has nothing to do with forces on the suspension beyond compressing under vertical load, especially when you hit the brakes. The upper or lower A arm groups could have loose , worn bushings. The service manual shows how to load the suspension to check the ball joints.
Here's a link for the manual Ranchero is referring. It takes a minute or two to download.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...150Service.pdf
 
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  #62  
Old 07-08-2017, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by amcdonal86 View Post
I literally just need to jack the front of the car up to take that bolt out, right? Do I even need to take off the wheel?
Read the manual before something regrettable happens.
 
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  #63  
Old 07-15-2017, 12:54 PM
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Well, you guys were right! The problem is not the struts. I had the struts replaced at a shop, with new lower strut bolts and the problem is unchanged. At least it wasn't a complete waste, the ride quality seems somewhat improved, and I used those eBay struts so the costs were kept relatively low.

After that, the shop and I did some experimenting--we removed the anti-rattle clip and the clicking/rattling sound seemed much more frequent, but exactly the same sort of sound over all sorts of bumps. I am now turning my attention back to the brakes. Since the XKR caliper is a 2-piston caliper, with both pistons on the inboard side, the caliper is floating, and is guided by two caliper "slider pins".

It's possible, but not likely, that these slider pins are damaged/bent, but more likely I think the caliper bushings could be worn or damaged, which would potentially allow the pads to clatter over bumps.

The problem is, I picked up caliper pins from the dealer--they do not appear to be the correct ones. I picked up C2C27297 (this is what is listed on JaguarParts.com), but those appear to have a 7mm recessed head, whereas from what I've read on the forums, the fronts are supposed to have a 9mm head. When I went under there and tried to remove the caliper slider pins with a 7mm hex socket, the socket was too small.

I have ordered a 9mm hex socket on Amazon.com since I couldn't find one at Sears or Advance Auto.

However, what I really want to investigate is the caliper bushings. Where are these items fitted on the calipers? I can't seem to find anything about them in the service manual and the parts diagram is vague. Do they surround the caliper sliders?
 
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  #64  
Old 07-15-2017, 03:21 PM
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Harbor Freight has a set of 3/8 Metric Hex Sockets. And, believe it or not, Harbor Freight is having a sale and they are only $8.00.
 
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:03 PM
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:23 PM
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Wow. I'm sad that it didn't resolve the issue. I'm gonna keep checking back in hopes you figure it out.
 
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  #67  
Old 07-15-2017, 05:18 PM
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OK, still if it's a caliper or the slides sticking I would expect you to have pulling problems when you hit the brakes...
 
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:53 AM
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One more thing I was thinking about--I had the hub on the left side replaced as part of the pothole repair. Is it possible that an improperly installed hub was causing the rotor to be misaligned with the caliper bracket, thus causing excessive clearance?
 
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by amcdonal86 View Post
One more thing I was thinking about--I had the hub on the left side replaced as part of the pothole repair. Is it possible that an improperly installed hub was causing the rotor to be misaligned with the caliper bracket, thus causing excessive clearance?
I'm not sure that's possible but if it is, the alignment would have identified it.
 
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:23 AM
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Sean W, that is a good point. Didn't think about that. I may just try to take the car for an computerized alignment check somewhere. I never got a printout from the shop that did the work since they outsourced it, but they verbally told me everything was OK, except there was a minor issue with camber but that it's not something that is adjustable and that it was tracking straight. I don't recall whether that was an issue for front or rear wheels.
 
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:56 AM
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If the rotor was misaligned it would shake hard when you hit the brakes. Same with the wheel to hub fitment, it would shake hard at speed.
 
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  #72  
Old 07-18-2017, 08:02 PM
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I think I might have a breakthrough. I took the clips off for both sides and compared them.

Lo and behold, the left side (the one that was making a lot of noise) does not match the right side. It is probably bent out of shape!

What do you guys think? I tried to bend it back but these suckers are stubborn. I'm guessing it was damaged in transit before it got to the first shop. I can't imagine why or how they could've bent it during installation.



 
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:29 PM
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Well before you adjust, swap sides. If the rattle moves to passenger side then adjust.

Spring steel. Best done in a vice. If it were me, I would grip the band in the vice and reshape with vice grip and or large channel locks. Small adjustments until they match.
 
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  #74  
Old 07-18-2017, 08:33 PM
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I don't have any tools to be able to bend it, and I doubt I have the motor skills to get it to match just right anyway. I am going to see if my dealer has one in stock. If not, I will order one.

I also removed these logo plates without removing the wheels, so I want to wait until I have all the parts I could possibly need to fix this rattling issue before I actually start taking things apart this weekend. In fact, if I have the new rattle clip, I will just take it back to Shop #2 and they can probably install the clips back in about 10 minutes as a test.

I assume it is safe to drive without the clips for about 7 miles?
 
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  #75  
Old 07-18-2017, 08:41 PM
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No, your first shop buggered them sometime during the original repair. Says it a couple times in the X150 manual, page 488 and 489 to be very careful with the clips as it's easy ti bugger them up. For yours, just apply some pressure and bend them back in shape or take it back to the shop and make them fix it.

God but I hope you aren't paying for all this...
 
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  #76  
Old 07-18-2017, 09:30 PM
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So, as it turns out, I was able to get the clips back on without removing the wheels by gently prying on them with a flathead screwdriver.

After swapping sides, the noise is COMPLETELY gone on the left side, and I only heard it maybe once or twice on the right side over cobblestone roads. It is nice and quiet, even quieter than before perhaps because now I have new springs.

I suspect gravity is helping, or perhaps now the loose side of the clip is on the trailing side of the caliper instead of the leading side.

That being said, I am extremely relieved as this has been quite a process to track down this noise. I am going to see if my dealer has a replacement clip in stock--even though the clip is on there and doesn't seem to be making much (if any) noise anymore, I can feel that if I pry on the left side of the logo versus the right side, there is a great difference in resistance, which I am afraid could lead to uneven pad wear or noise issues down the road. Plus when I had the shop clearcoat the logo plates, they did such a crappy job on that one.

I still can't imagine how they could bend one of these things. I do not believe the clips are delicate--just that the logo plate can be easily scratched (cosmetically). I remember the old clips I had removed them at one point and flung them across the driveway a couple times trying to get them back on.

Thank you all for your help!!!! Of course it had to be this way--I spend 3 months waiting for TWO shops to find a repair, only to fix it myself in 10 minutes with a goddamn flathead screwdriver.
 
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  #77  
Old 07-24-2017, 09:23 AM
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I finally installed the new brake clip on the right side. I noticed on driving around on Saturday that there was still some minor clicking sounds over some bumps, but much much less than before.

After installing the new clip, it is apparent that clips on both sides had been tampered with, and were bent in order to make them easier install. Those damn clips are difficult as hell to get on! But if you bend them to make them easier to install, it's not going to provide much force on the caliper and the bracket.

I will order a new one for the left side.
 
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