All of us with modern XK's have suffered through the constant brake dust issue. They don't make ceramic pads for all four wheels yet. So, what brake dust remover do y'all use? I've been though several but still haven't found one that really cleans the wheels sufficiently.

 

Do they make Akebono ProActs for the XK? If they do, they are virtually dust free. I didn't check on Tirerack.

 

I asked early and was told Tirerack had the pads for front and back but after viewing their site i see the only show for the front. Maybe If you call the have the rears as well.

 

I use Windex.....I think it works great!!!!

 

Meguiars Wheel Brightener. Mixes 4 to1 and a gallon will last you a real long time.

MeguiarsDirect.com:Wheel Brightener Wheel Brightener

 

Be careful what you use on the painted wheels. You don't want to use anything that is too aggressive on the wheel's finish. After my previous experience with my G35, the cleaners left streaking on the paint that could not be removed. Our wheels are super expensive. For myself, I would only use mild soap and water and hose it off. There are products out there, but be sure they are compatible with the finish of the wheel.

 

Agreed.....soap and water and a good soft brush to get inside the wheel.

Here's a great article from autogeek.....

Wheels’ worst enemy

Brake dust is made of an adhesive and carbon fibers that come off the brake pad and tiny metal shavings from the rotor. The intense heat and friction generated by the wheels makes this mixture highly corrosive. Because you probably drive every day, more brake dust is constantly being made. Frequent cleaning is the only way to keep your wheels safe. Again, chrome is soft. Brake dust can penetrate and pit chrome wheels in no time. You have to keep them clean and protected in order to maintain their shine.

Step by Step

Clean chrome wheels with the Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush.
Use a Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush to clean wheels without scratching.

Dry chrome wheels with a microfiber towel.

Towel dry each wheel after cleaning to prevent water spots.

We recommend cleaning the wheels before washing your vehicle. Cleaning wheels first will prevent brake dust and dirty water from splashing onto a clean car.

Rinse wheels to remove loose dirt and brake dust. Use a Fire Hose Nozzle to deliver a strong stream of water.

Spray one wheel at a time with a chrome wheel cleaner. A few examples are Griot’s Garage Chrome Wheel Cleaner, Mothers Wheel Mist Chrome/Wire Pro Strength Wheel Cleaner, and Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner. These cleaners are non-acidic in order to protect the wheels' finish. Whether you have clear coated or polished chrome wheels, these wheel cleaners are safe choices.

Use a soft bristled wheel brush to agitate the wheel surface. The Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush is a great choice because it can fit narrow or wide spaces and has a flexible stem. The soft, synthetic bristles loosen grime and brake dust without scratching the chrome. This is essential since scratches are noticeable on chrome. Reach through spokes to clean each wheel front to back.

Don’t forget the lug nuts. Brake dust hides wherever it can. Use a lug nut brush to clean around the lug nuts and inside the lug nut holes. While you’re working with the brushes, the wheel should remain wet. The water and wheel cleaner help loosen grime, but they also lubricate the wheel surface to prevent scratching. You never want to let a wheel cleaner dry on the wheel because it will spot the finish.

While you’re down there, clean the wheel wells, a.k.a. fender wells. A lot of dirt and mud is kicked up in the wheel wells as the tires roll. You might need something a bit stronger than what you used on the wheels. Spray the wheel well generously with an all purpose cleaner, like Detailer’s Pro Series Cleanse-All Exterior Surface Cleaner. Use a long handled brush with sturdy bristles to agitate the wheel well. Note: Do not use your soft wheel brush on the wheel wells. Likewise, do not use the wheel well brush on the wheel itself. Think soft and gentle for wheels, strong and sturdy for wheel wells. Do not use Detailer's Pro Series Cleanse-All full strength on chrome.

Rinse the wheel and wheel well, including the lug nut holes and between the spokes.

Always dry wheels. Water spots are unattractive wherever they appear, even on the wheels. Chrome wheels, in particular, will show water spots and they will detract from the mirror finish. Our Wheel & All Purpose Microfiber Towel is exceptionally gentle on the wheel finish and grabs any residual brake dust. Because the towel is black, you can you use it on wheels without ruining it. To avoid cross-contamination, use this towel only on wheels and wash it separately from your other microfiber towels. Brake dust is the last thing you want on your paint!
Use detailing clay to clean chrome wheels.
Use a medium grade detailing clay bar to remove embedded brake dust from wheels.

Clay Chrome Wheels

All the tiny contaminants that stick to your vehicle’s body also stick to the wheels. Add brake dust on top of that. Detailing clay is a fantastic tool for removing embedded contamination from wheels. Griot’s Garage Wheel Cleaning Clay is made especially for claying wheels. The good thing about this product is that you have a clearly labeled jar so it’s less likely you’ll confuse the wheel clay with the regular detail clay you use on the paint. You should not mix them up! Always avoid cross-contamination between wheels and paint.

Always use wheel detailing clay after cleaning the wheel but before polishing or waxing.

Spray the wheel generously with Griot’s Garage Speed Shine or another slippery clay lubricant.

Take a quarter of the clay bar and flatten it into a patty over your fingers. Then rub the clay over the wheel. Take care to get between spokes and wherever you can see pitting or black spots.

Fold the clay to reveal a clean side as it becomes soiled.

When you’re done with each wheel, use the clay lubricant or quick detailer to remove any clay residue and wipe the wheel clean.

Do the same on all four wheels.
Wheel Polishing

Polish chrome wheels with a metal polish and polishing tool.
Use a Mothers PowerBall MD to polish between spokes. Avoid wool polishing ***** on chrome wheels.

Choosing a metal polish for chrome is interesting. Chrome wheels technically are coated but they’re coated with metal. It’s not quite the same as being coated with clear coat or paint. Chrome is tougher than that. Many metal polishes that can be used on aluminum or steel can also be used on chrome. It’s just a matter of reading the label to determine if a product is safe on chrome.

*Note: Plastic chrome wheels or plastic chrome trim is not real chrome! The same rules do not apply. Plastic with a chrome finish should be treated like plastic, not metal.

Optimum Metal Polish, 3M Chrome and Metal Polish, and Wenol Blue are all excellent choices for polishing chrome. Chrome can tarnish and rust, unlike clear coated alloy, so these polishes are equipped to remove oxidation.

For the best results, apply metal polishes to the wheels with a polishing tool, such as Mothers PowerBall Mini MD or the Flitz Polishing Ball. Both will give you the consistent speed and power needed to effectively polish wheels.

First, wipe the chrome polish of your choice onto the wheel. Apply it to one wheel at a time.

With your Mothers PowerBall MD attached to your electric drill, start slowly and spread the polish over the wheel. Gradually increase the speed. Keep the PowerBall moving over the wheel until the polish starts to dry or diminish.

Use a soft, clean microfiber towel to wipe the wheel clean.

Repeat on all four wheels.
Apply wheel wax or sealant to chrome wheels.
Apply a coat of Detailer's Pro Series Wheel Glaze to protect wheels from brake dust.

Wax chrome wheels

Once your chrome wheels are clean and dry, apply a quality wheel protectant like DP Wheel Glaze or Wheel Wax to seal the wheel surface. These products work just like car wax. Apply them with an applicator pad and then buff the wheel. They keep your wheels looking shiny, and they prevent brake dust adhesion. These products dry clear, like a wax, so they will not diminish the shine of chrome wheels. Your wheels look cleaner longer. You have to reapply these products weekly, but it’s better than scrubbing your wheels every two days. The good news is, if you use a wheel wax as recommended, water is the only thing you need to clean your wheels between waxings.
Tire dressing – the finishing touch

Choose your tire dressing carefully. Old-fashioned tire dressings contain silicone, which produces a glossy shine but they turn brown over time. In fact, shiny silicone tire dressings can attract dirt. These dressings deplete the rubber’s plasticizers faster, causing it to age prematurely. Newer formulas, like Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel or Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel, are water-based and less shiny, but less shiny is the concours look you want. These dressings create the look of new tires with a semi-gloss sheen that doesn’t turn brown. Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel also nourishes the rubber to recreate the look of new tires. You can often layer water-based dressings to get a glossier shine. Follow the directions on the label carefully. Always apply thin coats and allow drying time before you drive your vehicle. Even the best dressing will sling off if it’s on too thick or it doesn’t have time to dry. Avoid pooling of the dressing around raised letters and white walls.

 

Try using Iron X by CarPro before clay bar or polishing the wheel. Make sure to spray only the wheel. I also use this on the paint before detailing. So much embedded iron "drips" off the paint, it's amazing. One of my favorite steps in the detailing process. Cuts down the clay bar time by at least 50%

 

I recently fitted Akebono EURO ultra premium pads to both front and rear and couldn't be happier. Brake dust virtually gone. I had to go to seperate suppliers for each set. Surprisingly Advanced Autoparts had the rears in stock and the fronts came from Tire Rack. Advanced Autoparts loan you the brake tool kit for free and it took me about 2 hrs. What I like about the Akebono's is that they are made here in the US versus China. See pic for details on the rear set. Fronts are EUR1241.

Steve

 

For sure I am going with Akebono when it comes time. OEM rotors. Plan to paint the calipers (XK) either silver or black.

 

How do you compare the stopping between OEM and Akebono?

 

No noticeable difference. Certainly not better. Not fully bedded in yet so I'll post later a more informed opinion.

Steve.

 

On my VDP they did not have as sensitive initial bite, but after that about equal.

 

There's the trade off. The OEM softer pad is more sensitive and stops on a dime with a ton of dust. The harder Akebono will lose some of that initial bite (although acceptable) with almost no dust. I have the Akebonos on my G35 and hardly ever notice any brake build up. I've gotten used to the difference over time from the OEM with regards to it's stopping ability.

 

Sjtyrer,
Ordered pads from Tire Rack and Advanced (($15 off!) today............it is very strange that the fronts (EUR1241) have never been available before but your label shows mfg date of 2012 !!! Where have they been hiding?
And.......they are still not available anywhere else!!
What is it I don't understand (among many things!)..............
Thanks for heads up.......don't need them yet (maybe 2014!); but still nice to have them in stock.

Cheers, Adrian

 

Adrian
Thats a pic for the rears which have been around for some time. Here's the fronts. Made just 7 weeks ago.

Steve

 

I have a lot of dust with the 15 inch alcon brakes. Is it a good idea to change the type of pads. I don't race but love the brakes.

 

Do you think Jaguar would have any warranty issues if the OEM brake pads were replaced with the Akebono?

 

Good luck finding aftermarket low-dust ceramic pads for your Alcon brakes. Let us know if you find any. Even if you do, I'm not sure if it makes sense to use ceramic pads with Alcon rotors.

I recommend replacing the pads before they score the rotors, which are very expensive to replace. I had my Jaguar dealer replace my front pads at around 30,000 miles. Since my rotors still looked good I told my service advisor to not turn (resurface) them. I got lucky - no noise, no pulling, no pulsating or shimmy. But plenty of dust! That's the tradeoff - the OEM pads are soft and stop on a dime. Because they're a soft compound, they tend to not score the rotors like a harder ceramic compound might. But they make lots of dust. I concluded that cleaning wheels beats replacing rotors.

 

Yes, particularly if the Akebonos are ceramic and the OEM aren't. The dealer might use any excuse he can find to shift blame to others for not using authorized, compatible parts. Just my opinion.