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MAKE SURE that the Filler Plug comes loose BEFORE you drain
valuable advice
Been there too, on a low quality domestic differential.
Could not get drain plug loose to save my life, with the limited clearance to get a breaker bar.
Soaking the thread with a mix of atf fluid and acetone for 2 days did the trick.
What are your thoughts Cee Jay on the tranny and did you do the E diff change?
I am embarrassed to say that I still have all the parts and equipment to do both the Trans and the E-Diff sitting on a shelf in my garage, right in front of the XKR. Many other projects have inserted themselves in a higher priority lately. SOON, I hope.
So did I understand that we are NOT doing a full flush. (Meaning we are not doing the C converter) which means only dropping the pan which should be what? 4 to 6 qts?
I'm not going to do a full flush, it seems unnecessary and VERY expensive. May as well have the entire transmission rebuilt since it'd be out anyway.
I have a pan (w/filter), mechatronic (sp?) sleeve and 6 quarts ready to go.
Since I don't have a lift (yet) I'll have a buddy of mine who owns an indie shop do it while I watch/manage. He's treated me really well for the past 15+ years. Course, I help HIM out with different things also, so that's fair.
Trans and e diff change. I called Jaguar in Tampa today to see what they would charge me to change the transmission fluid and do an E Diff change. It took some time for them to get back with me and they told me they were both closed systems. I asked, what if you had a transmission leak? They said they would replace the gasket and the filter and put in about 8 quarts of oil at $60 a quart. He said there is no scheduled maintenance change for either of those areas from Jaguar. He said that if there is a problem with either one of those, they normally replace them. I told him, that’s not a great option if you’re an owner who’s car is out of warranty. Hey said, I see what you mean. But I checked with the master mechanic here and that’s what he said.
So my question to the forum is Jaguar says neither one of those should ever need replacing. How do you feel about ? A partial tranny change by dropping the pan replacing the filter versus a complete flush? (for a car with 67k) In the old days they said to never do a complete change. My Jag has 67k miles and my was a preventative measure.
What are your thought about this unspoken maintenance need?
2. And if you moved forward, how do you know how many qts does it take for a full change vs just dropping the pan and doing a partial? And how do you check what is in there? Thanks
Was thinking the same on my 2010 XKR with 39,000 as preventive maintenance. I called the local dealer who informed the transmission fluid/filter flush/change was $1,100. I asked him if that was to change the fluid or the actual transmission. Cripes, I was stunned!
Was thinking the same on my 2010 XKR with 39,000 as preventive maintenance. I called the local dealer who informed the transmission fluid/filter flush/change was $1,100. I asked him if that was to change the fluid or the actual transmission. Cripes, I was stunned!
Feff
Had mine done at an Indie Import Specialist shop, cost me about $300 for the labor for a pan replacement. I had already purchased all the parts/fluid for about $130..... so right at $430 (approx) to get mine done. Took just over 9 quarts.
Also, most places advise against a flush, and bad things can happen.
So I'm confused on the diff fluid. The Castrol BOT 720 appears, per a previous post, to be a 75W-90 but the specification, again mentioned in a previous post, M2C192A is a Ford spec 75W-140. Can someone clarify what is correct, please?
If anyone has trouble finding the Castrol rear diff fluid for the Electronic Differential on the 2010+ XKR.
The RAVENOL J1C1126 Multi-Disc Locking Differential Fluid is a very good choice.
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Also those who bicker about Jaguar related issues. This is a review of the above oil from a Porsche owner.
Happy to report that changing the e-diff fluid cured the 'shudder from start into a turn' issue for me as well. According to the Torque app, the e-diff fluid is also running at a much lower temp during regular driving.
Dealer changed my e-diff fluid for $400. The highly recommended tranny shop (for all things ZF) down the road couldn't get the filler plug out - weird.
I had the read e-diff changed today at my local shop. The car has 28K on it and I was starting to experience the tale-tale "shutter" when I would first start out with the car and on slow sharp turns.
I used the fluid recommended by Queen and Country: RAVENOL J1C1126 Multi-Disc Locking Differential Fluid
The fluid that drained out was discolored but not horrible. My shop charged me $105. Best part was I was able to go down under the car and watch the whole thing. Kind of felt like I was on a school field trip, for adults! That's the first time I was really able to get a good look under the car. She was cleaner than I expected and YES, the shudder I was experiencing is gone.
As long as you don't have the E-Diff you'll be fine. The /R E-diffs use clutches so the fluid needs a Friction Modifier, either included in some fluids or as an added little bottle.
