I wanted to share this as sanity check for those of you that may have chased this issue. As with the other posts detailing it, my top also would come within a couple of inches of closing and stop. Across three days, I reset the top a bizillion times, reset the windows a kazillion times, released the tension a gazillion times, charged the battery, zapped the battery, burnt sage, and did a tribal dance naked around the car. Nothing worked. At my wit's end, I shamefully dialed the local dealer and scheduled an appointment. Jiggling the wiring harness he could see the sensor going on and offline. Sure enough, it was a couple of broken wires in the harness which he repaired.

For three days I thought that I must either be not performing the steps in the correct order or doing the incorrect steps to reset or restore the hood operation or something like that. This is why I'm posting this. Should you encounter the same issue and performed all of the resets and still have a malfunctioning roof, please check your wiring. You just may not be going crazy.

 

Two questions:
1. Which wire harness was bad and what was it's location?
2. Can someone tell me the location of the relays that control the rear windows on the XK conv.(are they marked and if not, then possibly the exact board locations if known) ? They(rear windows) were both up when I attempted to lower the top with the "convertible top latches not closed" warning and could never get them to close again. This is a salvage vehicle so I want to keep the inside dry if possible while awaiting rebuild. .

Wow, these tops are a complicated hot mess compared with to the coupes!

 

Agreed, initial post would be more informative if it included the specific harness with the issue, and where about in the harness.

 

Please pardon the lack of that info. I am returning to the dealership next week to have a coolant line under the supercharger replaced, and I'll get that information from the Tech then. I was only told that it was under the canvas which had to be partly removed to get to it.

 

GatorVDP be sure they replace both of the valley hoses. They are not expensive but the labor to get at them sure is.

 

Thanks a ton for the heads up, JackJohn. I touched base with the dealership, and they advised that the coolant lines are metal on my 2010, and they are replacing all of the seals on them. They're fixing the cracked symposer tube also as it's throwing lean codes on both banks.

 

Hood not Latched Update: The tech diagnosed it as a broken connection by operating the top while hooked to his computer. The front sensor was going on and offline as he operated the top back and forth. Opening the canvas part of the top he found two broken wires that appeared to him as getting pinched at the middle frame over the driver's head. They were repaired and the top returned to working great. Without a diagnostic computer, I'm certain the same could be diagnosed using a voltmeter at the connector, albeit a much lengthier process as each sensor connection would need to be individually checked. With his diagnostic computer, he was able to see all of the sensors simultaneously, shortening that process.

They charged me for 3 hours of labor for this repair which seemed reasonable given that he spent at least two of those hours trying to find the issue.