So I've had it about a week and a half, and there's a few small things that I didn't notice on the test drive and honestly probably wouldn't have noticed without having spent some time with the car anyway.

FWIW, it just turned 60K and the battery was replaced within the past year.

1) Rough idle when cold and an occasional stumble when warm. It almost feels like an occasional misfire. There aren't any codes, and I'm assuming the plugs are original so I was going to start there, but I'd like to hear what you guys have to say before I just start throwing parts at it. There are no odd noises or rattles on start up either hot or cold, or while it's running.

1b) If I don't wait for the cold idle to drop down before I put it in gear, it'll stumble significantly and then pick up and smooth out.

1c) Under this same scenario, when I give it some gas to back up my driveway, it'll stumble again as I apply the throttle. And then when I put it in drive and begin to drive away, the throttle will be very jerky while my foot stays still on the pedal. I leave it in Dynamic and Drive, but I've yet to see if it'd do the same thing in Sport or Winter modes and/or without Dynamic on. This only happens when it's cold and if I haven't waited for the idle to drop.

1d) Maybe related maybe not, but the tach jumps by about a needle width mainly when cold and when it's doing its misfire thing, but I've also seen it do the jumping with the cruise control set on the highway.

2) On two occasions I've turned the wheel fairly rapidly while nearly at a stop and the steering wheel has resisted and vibrated as it's being turned. Think backing out of a parking space and as you're almost at a stop and putting it in drive while you turn the wheel to pull away, and that's the kind of situation where it'll do this.

3) Once in a while, the steering wheel won't lower to the preset position when I get in.

4) The passenger mirror only tilts down about 5° when I put it in reverse and occasionally won't move at all.

If these are just odd little quirks, I will lovingly accept them as part of owning a chariot of the gods. But if this stuff isn't par for the course, I'd like to get it taken care of sooner rather than later.

On the maintenance side of things... Can anyone recommend a vacuum pump for the oil changes? In the next week or two I intend on baselining all the fluids and will be using a lift to access the trans and diff, but down the road I'd like to do oil changes in my garage.

 

Was the car a daily driver when you bought it, or had it been standing doing little driving? If the latter and you are now using it as your daily driver, it may well be just getting used to being used as it should.


However, it did strike me that your throttle problems could be eased - or even solved? - by cleaning out the throttle body.

 

As a point of reference I don't have any of those issues on my 2012 XKR with 20K miles on it.

 

What are you saying jagtoes, that he should manage his expectations.

I have 45k on mine, no such problems. Then again I have taken great care to avoid carbon buildup problems- which occurs in every car. I would start there, as the previous poster also indicated.

Who did you buy this car from, dint you say it was someone in their 80's?

If this was a regular fuel injection; my first bet would be clogged injector. I dont know if Direct Injection is less or more susceptible? The cure is easy and only beneficial so I do it anyway to know I am starting from a good reference. Run 4 bottles of Techron through the gas tank. You will have to change the oil immediately.

 

Mine has 85K and does the little occasional stumble/hiccup when idling, but then my old 4.0 used to do something similar so it's never concerned me.

I've also noted the wierd steering effect when I've been reversing out of a car park space and then been straightening out to drive off. Maybe twice that I recall, and only momentarily, I put it down to there not being sufficient pressure built up in the steering assistance system to handle a quick turn from one side the the other when at idling engine revs and the car recently started.

Can't say I've noticed any of the other things you've mentioned. None of them sound like anything worth worrying about too much.

 

I have every thing that you have said with my 07 XK coupe I thought I just had a vacuum leak some where.
I haven't even taken to time to check it out. I drive mine daily 100 miles round trip everyday Mon-Fri.
Never had a problem with it

 

You have only one choice and its a damn good one. Mightyvac large canister pump. For obvious reasons, you are going to pull out 9qts of oil.

I have always loved draining the oil from the oil pan in all other cars. After using this pump 4 years ago just like you are doing- somewhat out of necessity- I can never go back to the old way.

Miss the opportunity to look under the vehicle? take it to lift, you will see more and do less weird twisting of the frame.

BTW save the old oil from first oil change- in case you need it in the future, or want to verify the right oil was used. It may end up being the thing that will tell you the most about the car's history. Should that become relevant.

 

On my '07 it doesn't like a battery disconnect or new spark plugs. Does #1 until a few heat cycles to get the fuel trims relearned. #2 mine chatters on occasion when stopped if the driving surface is rough but I figure it's because the engine is idling at 600 rpm and the power steering pump is marginal. Maybe some thicker hydraulic oil will resolve it, maybe not but it's not enough of an issue to bother about. #3 mine stays up and away normally so it never disappoints me by not moving. #4 Mine would lower and go way out but never return to the preset so I turned the function off. I don't parallel park on the street if possible and pay attention to how the parking spaces are aligned so I can use the space in the row in front of me as a guide for backing in.

TPMS is the only thing that still bothers me but I don't have the cash allotted to do the sensor swap right now. Too many higher priority projects out there like hauling a couple tons of stone today and spreading it out in the parking area...

 

Hi Mandrake, my '07 with 79K on the odometer does none of the things listed in numbers 1 and 2. However my steering wheel occasionally fails to follow my set up and I never know where the mirror will stop after coming out of "R". These little failures are irritating since my VDP steering wheel and mirror worked perfectly every time.

I think TRW999's suggestion may be spot on. "Was the car a daily driver when you bought it, or had it been standing doing little driving? If the latter and you are now using it as your daily driver, it may well be just getting used to being used as it should."

 

You are totally screwed.
Completely.

I will take it off your hands for $12k.

 

Sorry Cee Jay,... I'll go $13k... Maybe $14k...


OP,
The car is now 7 years old, and most likely never had a direct cylinder injection cleaning. Plugs are a good thought, but if they are iridium, you get 100k out of them easily (platinum can go half that with ease).

I recommend you look at possible carbon fouling thanks to the DCI system the 2010 and newer cars use.

Go to the BG website and find your local representative, and have the intake system cleaned.

Don't fear puling plugs, as they can tell you a lot about each cylinder, and personally, at 60K I'd replace them if for no other reason than to start with a known good factor. If your not familiar with reading plugs, then keep them in order, and post up (Closeup) pictures if any one looks oddly different than the other and we may be able to help more there.

We are here to help, and welcome to the Jag forum!

Vince

 

Mandrake,
The steering wheel vibration has been reported by several members. and I have it on mine as well. A couple years ago I had it, and had my mechanic flush the power steering fluid and replace and it improved. Lately, it has reappeared and when my car goes to my mechanic in the next week or two, I've already told him to do it again. But it is an issue that has been reported many times. It's like a shuddering feel. My car also wants to be warmed up for a minute or two, but not because it misfires, but rather because the transmission wants to warm up as well and the shifts are much more pronounced in the first couple of minutes. None of these are very unusual.

And by the way, I'll beat Cee Jay's offer and raise it to $14,000.

 

Mandrake - I have no experience with points one and two.

As to 3 & 4; the following applies to my car occasionally the steering wheel will not automatically go to my setting. Just push the setting button on the door and the wheel will go where it belongs. 4. You can adjust the amount of dip in the RH door mirror. Here are the instructions out of the 2013 Owners' Manual, I don't know if the same thing applies to your car, but it is worth a shot:

MIRROR DIP WHEN REVERSING
The mirrors can be configured so that when
reverse gear is selected, the passenger door
mirror automatically adjusts to provide an
improved viewing angle for reversing.
The exact dipped position can be adjusted
using the joystick control, when the mirror is
dipped. The next time reverse is selected, the
newly adjusted position will be selected.
When the gear selector is moved out of
reverse, or if vehicle speed exceeds 7 km/h
(4 mph) while reversing, the mirror will return
to its previous position.
Mirror dip can be selected or deselected using
the touch screen:
From the main Home menu, select Vehicle:
• Select Veh. settings.
• The Security screen is selected
automatically as the default.
• Select Parking.
• Select Reverse mirror dip On or Off.

 

Hi -
Fellow 2010 XKR owner here. About 32K on my car. Thoughts are below. Long story short: I think you're fine.

1A, B: me too. Pretty consistently. Brought it into my dealer tech (who I love, I know others on this forum aren't pro-dealer but they've done great by me)-- anyway, couldn't get anything to come up on codes, said not to worry. That was about a year ago, and I'm still fine. (one thing nice about a dealer tech is that my concern is now part of the service history so if anything DOES go wrong, I'm fine.) My car lunges a bit if I take it out of park before the idle drops on start-up. But I'm in LA, so that's about 15 seconds. Not a problem.

1D) Nope. Never happened.

2) Always. Don't know why this "wheel hop" is a concern for folks. the XKR's simply have too much wheel (and if you've got the 20" wheels, you've got too much tire patch) for the power steering pump. Try this simple test: find a place where it happens (for me, concrete parking garages), put it in neutral, rev to about 1000, 1200 rpm, and spin the wheel back and forth. I promise you it'll be smooth. (on the other end, you'll never have the problem on dirt parking lots.) But at 600 rpm, the system just can't quite get it done with our wheels. No worries.

3) Never had it. Jag electrical thing. I'd let it go.

4) I've reset the mirrors once or twice and any of those issues seem to go away.

No stop worrying and go DRIVE THAT CAR!

 

Its not like you can return it and get your money back.

I'll go up to $17K

Take the money while you still can.

 

$18,500 and a case of Jameson!

 

I am sorry, at $18.5K I am out.
I can get half the age car and 10 years longer life left on the engine for that price.
And frankly this car needs less.
2013 Jaguar XKR 2dr Coupe XKR | eBay

 

I haven't had ANY of these Mandraked problems. Well, a very SLIGHT idle stumble for about thirty seconds on cold-start then it disappears.
As someone already stated, maybe it just needs to be driven, and relearn a new driver.
Possibly a good service also.

Salvage Title?
Nope, not for me.
Besides, IT'S HALF NOT EVEN THERE!!!!!!!!!!

 

Its needs just one headlight, hood and a bumper.

Your buddy's needs a $30K engine and god knows what else.
I can sell this engine for more than his car is worth.

You are just wanting to see it end up in your local pull-a-part so you have a convenient Jaguar parts department.

 

That one looks easy to work on.