Yesterday, battery was flat so attached a Noco to +ve lug on the outside, unlocking the car I accidentally did three presses on the key which put the roof down. I had ignition but it wouldn't turn over, just the click. Switched the ignition off and now it is dead. I attached jump leads off my van to the outside terminals; today connected a new battery to the terminal behind the back seat, nothing, no ignition, locks don't operate, and of course I can't get the roof up. I've had a Yuasa YCX12 attached for about 3 hours, still nothing. I can't get in the boot, the key turns the quarter as far as it will go but doesn't operate the catch. I read something about a boot release behind the back seat but I can't see anything. I'm hoping maybe a fuse blew, but can't see any obvious one to look at from the owner's manual.

I'd be very grateful for any suggestions please.

 

I’d wait longer on the charger. Dumb question, since I’ve never used the boot key, did you turn it the correct direction to unlock?

 

If you can't open the trunk, outside of car look under the drivers side fender, rear tire. There is an aux battery hookup underneath the car. Copied this from another post.

 

There is no access through the rear seat.
The jump points under the car behind the left-rear wheel is the only access to the battery with the boot closed or the roof lowered. Can you operate the Smart Key boot release button when there is external power supplied to the under-car jump points?

Your only access may be to make the key blade work. Have you tried pressing down on the boot lid while you turn the key blade? Maybe use powdered graphite inside the boot key slot to lubricate stuff.

Once the boot is opened, you can manually raise the roof following the user manual.

 

Yeah, I'll leave the charger on overnight. Boot key only turns clockwise, even got a pair of pliers on the key, it's turned as far as it will go. It's just odd I'm getting nothing even with auxiliary power connected.

 

Hi. Try the metal key in the door handle. If it doesn't work there, then it is the wrong key for the car.

 

Thanks all - with external power nothing operates now, and yes I tried pushing and pulling on the boot lid. There is no key hole on the doors, it seem like the right key because it turns - I've read many other posts of people with the same problem.

With external power attached I'd expect locks to operate (as they did in the first instance), which makes me think a main blown fuse - which is probably in the boot that I can't get into...

 

The keyhole for the door is under the handle cover. You need to gently remove the cover.

 

Don’t think there are any fuses in the trunk/boot.
Check for voltages in the fuse block between the rear seats.

 

Just looked out the window it appears to be coming to life; it's now intermittently blinking the DRLs and tail lights, it's looking very Christmassy

 

How festive.
Here's the question now; what KIND of charger are you using? If it isn't at least 10 amps, it'll take quite awhile to charge a flat battery. Probably two days or more. Adding that your car is flashing (quite normal by the way) it may take longer. Course if you can get into it and disconnect the battery and charge it directly, it'll go faster. Remember that you will need to calibrate both front windows before you can operate the top.

 

Ah…the blinking lights indicates that you have a near-death battery. The blinking lights and often the horn sounding are (counter-intuitively) the last gasps from this battery.

 

Good news. Keep charging, and as Cee Jay said, use a real charger to get up faster.

 

I spent £130 on a Yuasa YCX12 (12 amp) and after 2 days, still dead, error on the charger. I connected my new battery externally, with a Noco booster as well, and finally managed to open the boot and lift the roof manually to get the new battery in. Couldn't get the roof to tighten at the front, that torx screw at the front doesn't seem to do anything, trying to look if the torx was doing anything, pulled the roof up a bit and it's now stuck poking up at the front Now to try and sort the roof - I'll try all the reset procedures tomorrow. Thanks for all your replies.

 

Dude, manually lower the roof then. After you installed the new battery of course. Just follow the instructions for lowering that roof. Start from the Opened position, it's easier that way.
Remember to have the luggage divider installed properly and to reset both front windows before raising the top normally.
Remember to reset the pump to the Operate position!

 

Thank you - I'll try that tomorrow.

 

The first time it went up it didn't marry up with the screen, second time it jammed with about an 8" gap (saw another thread with that); lowered it and the third time it raised perfectly - maybe the hydraulics getting up to pressure? Anyway, all sorted now and it's staying on the CTEC all the time in future, not going through that again. Thanks again for everyone's input, much appreciated.

 

If the battery has developed an internal short, which is one of the failure modes, it will not take a charge…and even efforts to jump it may prove fruitless. Take the battery to a service center to have it fully tested, including a load test.

 

It didn't take any charge, did manage to jump start though. Bought a new battery, then realised the original was under warranty. New battery was £105, woman in the shop got confused & refunded the invoice from 2020 at £149. So I made £44 and and got a new 5 year warranty for new battery.

 

Have you managed to get into the boot (trunk) yet?

I had a similar situation and my boot manual key did not work the boot lock.

But I could open the bonnet and feed 12v from a jump pack into the engine cooling fan fuse. This allowed enough current to work the boot electronic lock and the door locks. Then I could get at the battery. I do not believe there is any mechanical boot release available from the driving cab area. People may be confusing this with the manual release cable for the tonneau cover, although that is in the boot next to the roof hydraulic pump.

When I looked at the manual boot lock, it seems it had never worked because the linkages were not adjusted correctly.