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Hello to everyone I have simple questions regarding the Differential Fluid I'm Owning XK 2010 5 litre engine not super charge very happy with the car.
1) What is the difference between Castrol SAF-XO 75W90 And Castrol BOT 720 ?
2) Can I use Castrol BOT-720 instead of SAF-XO 75W90 Today one delar told me that there the same he bring to me BOT-720 Maybe For XKR they made better performance Fluid ?
3) I Read some post regarding the FRICTION MODIFIER Castrol SAF-XO 75W90 and Castrol BOT-720 he has or must be add extra this FRICTION MODIFIER ?
The Electronic Locking Differential utilizes clutches to operate, so if the chosen fluid does not already contain a Friction Modifier, then one has to be added.
If you don't have the E-diff, you don't need the Friction Modifier.
I don't believe the non-R cars have a locking diff. Course I was wrong once before.......
I may to wrong. I was once before, lol. I believe the BOT 720 has the Friction Modifier (for e-diff, XKR) and the other does not. I think either one would work in a standard XK without e-diff. I'll be changing the e-diiff fluid on my XKR this winter.
My concern is to kept the best options
As I can see the dealer was not sure what he is talk
He doesn't know my car has electrical differential or no and he doesn't care
And I also don't know
I just see the specification that I find in the Forum and I follow but I'm not sure is correct.
Good news today I replace the Differential Fluid with Castrol SAF-XO 75W90 which is official recommended from Jaguar.
There is something which I was surprised before 8 months I replace the same Differential oil with Liqui Moly GL5 LS SAE 75W-140 which is mansion that is Cavar the Standard For This Differential and the Fluid coming aut was approximate 300ml. Instead 900ml. So I kept 950 ml. Back to the Differential. Before replacing I don't have any Issue and after replacing there is little better improvement.
So my Question is where this Fluid going?
possible seal leak... axle seal or pinion seal? If you look around you might spot some oil around the rear brakes or where the drive shaft connects... Not saying you have one of these problems just giving you suggestions on where to look...
I am just changing the diff oil in my 2014 XJR with the E-diff. After many hours of study I did find Redline 75W85 (#50104) and Redline 75W90 (#57904)
both meet Castrol SAF Carbon Mod specs.
Attached are the full spec's these products meet. I really like Redline and at about $20/quart it's much cheaper than other fluids.
I always fill to the bottom of the fill plug on rear ends but did read a few comments that Jaguar wants you to measure the oil and only put that amount in.
Anyone service the rear diff?
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Today they wash Gently the Cat from Down , engine everything so I will observe and if I see leaks I will catch.
Thank you for advice Texas Traveller 👍
Can you show me where exactly I have to look if you can catch picture on this 2 position.
Thank you in Advance
Not sure what your asking? But a rear end leak is real easy to see if you put the car on a lift.
It is NOT recommended to wash down any modern engine. The risk of water getting into something is just too large.
Wipe the engine down using rags and a small spray bottle of cleaner. You don't want to flood the engine with fluid of any kind.
One problem with the fluid you show is it's 75W140. Your Jaguar uses 75W90.
Will it be OK?
Probably since you don't have the E-diff.
The E-diff has carbon in the friction materials and MUST use a fluid that is equivalent to the Castrol Carbon Mod fluid.
Note what I posted above!
Jaguar is again different in that you drain the fluid and put a measured amount back in. You DON'T use the fill plug to gauge the fluid level!
This is very strange but is written in the service manual.
Your diff takes 900 ml as you posted above if you put in 950 ml it's over filled.
It's cool to see someone from Dubai with an XF so welcome!
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Not sure what your asking? But a rear end leak is real easy to see if you put the car on a lift.
It is NOT recommended to wash down any modern engine. The risk of water getting into something is just too large.
Wipe the engine down using rags and a small spray bottle of cleaner. You don't want to flood the engine with fluid of any kind.
One problem with the fluid you show is it's 75W140. Your Jaguar uses 75W90.
Will it be OK?
Probably since you don't have the E-diff.
The E-diff has carbon in the friction materials and MUST use a fluid that is equivalent to the Castrol Carbon Mod fluid.
Note what I posted above!
Jaguar is again different in that you drain the fluid and put a measured amount back in. You DON'T use the fill plug to gauge the fluid level!
This is very strange but is written in the service manual.
Your diff takes 900 ml as you posted above if you put in 950 ml it's over filled.
It's cool to see someone from Dubai with an XF so welcome!
.
.
.
Thank you Dear
For your suggestion
Today I Check the Car in lift and is very clear after washing.
I was driving full day and there is no sign for leaks
And what I'm thinking maybe because of the Hot conditions of the UAE and wrong Differential oil is the issue. ?
It's cool to see someone from Dubai with an XF so welcome!
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Pray tell how do you know he has one, he didn't say....psychic abilities??
But I digress, a truly great read about the 'drain and put in a measured amount' I am having mine done 2nd Dec, so will make sure my Indy does it right....and I bought my BoT720 for a mere £20 per litre, my indy advised to have two bottles to allow them to flush it through. Will hopefully be sending the old diff fluid away for particle analysis by blackstone
OK so I just had the major B service done today along with the Diff oil changed, I supplied the following myself:
Jag original pollen filter (bought from ebay for £25 jag price £64.50)
2 x K&N air filters (my car has K&N's from previous owner and there's not enough time for them to clean them properly*)
2 x 1l bottles of BOT720 diff oil (purchased for £39 delivered Jag price is £37 each!)
£65 labour diff
Free 4 wheel alignment
£90 labour service
£72.50 Castrol Edge Pro EC5 0w/20 (new spec oil for our cars and £10 per liter...although I can't find it anywhere cheaper)
£20.15 oil filter
£3.78 sump plug
£10 service sundries
Free Wurth Fuel cleaner
£2.27 screen wash
Advisories were:
1) New wipers needed (got them from main dealer for less than £26..normally £46)
2) NSF tyre curb damage (not an MOT fail and I have 2 spares)
3) trim clips missing from pollen filter cover (a whole new assembly is needed as opposed to being able to buy the clips separately...grrrr)
Below is a pic of my old diff oil (I have a sample to send away for analysis in the New Year) only 1l of the BOT720 was needed and am guessing it is golden in colour, what came out was sludgy blackness. This may not be a bad thing, but I'd prefer to have clean in, no opportunity to test it as it's just too cold out!
Process (as was explained to me) was:
a) Let Diff cool to 35 degrees
b) remove drain plug & drain out old fluid
c) syringe in 50ml to flush out any detritus
d) refit drain plug and syringe in exactly 950ml of new fluid in
e) refit fill plug and test drive
The particular Jag Indy has access to the Jaguar system and their service shows up on the e-service on-line
*I've already cleaned the old K&N's and they are drying prior to being re-oiled at the weekend and put away for being swapped back in a couple of years
Total amount = £263.70+VAT (£316.44 inc) $460 in your money
Indy says that Main dealers currently use Motul oil as they don't have a contract with Castrol here in the UK yet??
I'm trying to remove the diff filler plug on my 2010 X150 XKR
it's definitely a square drive, drain plug is a 3/8 but the filler looks like 5/16, the 3/8 is too big and 1/4 too small.
Access is an issue as the subframe's right there, looks like you can get it with the half shafts removed, but a 3/8 extension bar fits in between the frame and the halfshafts
I managed to get a torx fitting that felt like it fit in but the adaptor wouldn't fit down through where the halfshaft is
The only thing I can think of now is trying to file down a 3/8 extension bar so fits the plug, hopefully that should work.
I'm actually struggling to get the halfshafts out too but that's a separate issue.
When I changed my e-diff fluid I cut of 1" of 8mm allan key with a ginder and used a closed rachet wrench. Worked like a dream in the tight area. I also used white tread sealant on the plugs after cleaning them. The plugs originally had white sealant on them. I drained 1.2 liters and pumped in, with a $13 hand pump, 1.3 liters as recommended.
Differential Fluid
