I know other members have had similar issues with the electronic aspect of the XKR diff, and sure enough mine is no exception. Car will drive fine 95% of the time, occasionally throw a E-diff fault but not always with noise. Noise is a rubbing/clicking noise when it occurs, after the first occurrence it pretty much does it constantly, see video . Took it up to mackie transmission in Glasgow, 3 fault codes stored, didnt do a teardown as I needed to get back the same day.

Sure enough Jaguar dont supply individual parts for the diff, so any teardown may leave me in the same position of having to buy a new diff anyway. 2.4k from Jaguar, ive found a seller on Ebay, advertised as new and genuine for £950, worth considering? Or should I do a fluid change and see if anything changes?
Also just in terms of using the car in the meantime, I dont want to damage the diff any further, if it is the actuator as the codes suggest, can I just unplug the diff in its open state? It seems to only cause problems when the diff tries to use its E-diff mechanism. Leave car with traction control off all the time would do the same thing?

Codes:
SUMB ( Adaptive Daming Control Module) - U0437-68 Invalid data sent from Rear Differential Control Module (RDCM)
GSM ( Gearbox Shift Module) - U043A-92 Invalid data sent from front suspension control module B
RDCM Rear differential control module
P0652-00 Sensor reference voltage B circuit low
P186D-00 Clutch actuator is stuck

Thanks.

 

I doubt a simple fluid change would correct that issue.
Out of interest, how many miles on the drivetrain… and has the fluid been changed before? What year is your car?
Has the fluid level been checked? Not that adding fluid will correct any damage done.

Jaguar won’t provide the internals as Jaguar did.not manufacture the diff. The shop manual defines a replacement strategy, not an overhaul strategy. I’m sure someone here knows the manufacturer and where to source parts needed for an overhaul. As I’ve learned with the electronic clutch on the diff of the LR, it makes little difference in overall cost to go one direction or the other.
Is it an Eaton? Haldex? something else?

Brw, isn’t that interesting; bearings and seals are easily sourced for my car’s diff, but not newer models.
cheers

 

Its made by GKN driveline I think, some engineering company in the UK, they have no diffs on their website so I guess its not their business these days.
2010 car, on 73k miles, fault started showing maybe at 65k miles. AFAIK fluid hasnt been changed, just had the gearbox fluid done, intention was to do the diff aswell, but seemed pointless given the issues with it.

 

fwiw, it was alarming to see the state of the fluid in the LR’s at 65k kms.
I changed it and the filters anyways. noise did subside…. but it didn”t sound lime yours.
Nor was I throwing dire codes like that.
Q&C wrote a post about using Ravenol fluid. But I have no first hand experience in that electronic clutch.

 

Yeah I imagine fluid is definitely worse for wear, never believed in all that sealed for life nonsense. It doesnt sound like that when driving the car but faster with window up, but thats kinda hard to film when it happens! It could be something other than the diff but given the codes its throwing it does point to the diff. Because it almost feels like resistance when the noise occurs, as if its braking one of the wheels.

My thoughts initially were;
Sticking caliper/piston
Low power steering fluid
Diff

 

Thank you.
I did find this:
https://www.gknautomotive.com/global...t/etm-engl.pdf

Has anyone reached out?

 

Im becoming more convinced that it could be the brakes, il explain why.

On my commute to work i never experience the issue, on the return journey its pretty much guaranteed, why? On the way there is little traffic, I don't normally need to stop at all for the 10 mile journey. On the return journey the traffic is terrible, and im usually stopping and starting / crawling at 10/20 mph. When I went to work this week I got stuck on the reds at every set of lights, and sure enough by the time I got to work the noise was there! so braking causes/aggravates the noise. Im now thinking the diff message is a coincidence, and that the actual issue is a sticking piston on the rear caliper. I felt the brake discs when I got back and the rear right was noticeably warmer than the rest, not conclusive but another sign. Collapsed hose maybe?

My only sticking point is that it doesnt make the noise if im driving straight, turn the wheel 10 degrees and the noise is there. Surely if it was a sticking piston the noise would always be there, or does having the wheels at an angle cause the noise in combination with a sticking piston, disc slightly warped, build up of deposits maybe?

I had the noise this week without the ediff warning being displayed aswell, so theres another thing to note.

Any thoughts?



Normally the noise occurs after the car display the e-diff fault

 

Raise the car and have someone else stomp on the brakes while you check each wheel... and have the brakes released and you can find if one is sticking a bit. All of them should release immediately when the pedal is released.