I need to change my plugs, the 5.0 workshop manual says I need to disconnect the two coolant hoses that attach to one side of the intercooler assembly and to "be prepared to collect escaping coolant". How prepared to I need to be here, are we talking just loosing a splash or should I have a few towels, buckets/basins etc. to hand? I presume this is just so one can get the coil cover off the top of that cylinder head?

 

I can't offer much help, but I'd love to hear about how the job goes - thinking about doing mine as my car's at 105K miles but the instructions in the Service Manual for this particular job seemed a bit vague. Haven't been able to find much info at all about doing the job on the 5.0L S/C either.

 

I don't think there's much to it really, apart from that. Engine cover off, coil covers off (which I think is why the hoses have to come off) then each coilpack has one cable and one bolt to remove then they just pull free and the plugs can be accessed from there. Access is tight though, at least it was on my old 4.2 so I presume it won't be much or any better on the 5.0.

 

Don't be too concerned just a splash or so, I just put a shop towel under the hoses to collect the fluid. FYI I found removing the hoses tricky until I learned the knack - compress the top & bottom release tabs then push into the supercharger then pull out to release. Also the cover is a real pain on the drivers side as there's is no room.
Be careful with the pipe clips as they are inevitably brittle by now. IIRC I opened the connectors for both pipes to aid in removing the coil cover. Last tip is try to have the coil cover hot/warm so it's flexible which aids in disassembly. For assembly I also coated the cover inside with silicone to ease it back in. Yep its a real *itch Plug removal not so much of a problem - hope you have small hands

 

Thanks for that, very useful. The pipe clips you describe as being brittle, are they the ones that hold the coolant hoses into the intercooler assembly, or ones like the black one at the top of your photo that just hold the pipe in place to stop it moving around?

Regards the plugs, I have fairly large hands but I also have long tools...

 

The clips in the picture, and the corresponding on the other bank, are the ones that can easily break - the Norma connectors to the intercooler are robust.

 

Finally got round to trying this. Struggling with the left-side coil cover due to one of the two other hoses as in your picture, the thinner, black one. This seems to run from the evap canister purge valve down to the canister itself. You said you thought you removed that, I guess there should only be some fuel vapour in there, right - not pressurised fuel?

 

Yep - not pressurised fuel

 

Thanks - I ended up figuring that one out last night after posting. Got that cover off so have access to the coils on that side now too. What's in that other pipe beside the evap purge valve pipe, any idea? Safe to remove also? Would make getting the coil cover back on that side much easier.

 

measure the plug gap against the new ones and put your miles on here would be interesting to know how much the plugs had increased in gap against the miles you have done

 

I'm not sure if I have a set of feeler gauges but I'll have a look.

@hafren thanks for that, got that hose disconnected and the coil cover out. Any idea what the other hose beside it carries? Just for when the time comes to put that cover back in. Also, I see what you mean about access being very tight on that side! I can't get a regular socket wrench at T-30 torx bit on those coil pack bolts, there's no room. What did you use to undo those?

 

From memory I used a torx bit in a 1/4' or 3/8" drive with extensions & a universal joint. I don't recall it being very problematic once I broke the initial torque. As to the other pipe I only remember it wasn't pressurized or significant for leakage.

 

Hey 8 you got them out yet ? its not hard mate come on update please

 

He is 5/8 of the way there:

https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthre...=1#post1248513

 

As above, past halfway now. Main issues lately have been lack of free time (yes, despite lockdown), motivation and obviously access. I certainly haven't found it straightforward, the four on the RHS were awkward but got them done in under an hour once I got at it but the LHS ones are a PITA. There are the coolant hoses and evap purge hoses in the way plus an aircon hardpipe. Also because the coilpacks are rotated by 180 degrees on that side compared to the other, the torx screws for those are under the coilpack and that makes access to those harder too, particularly on the one closest to the suspension turret.

I had another go at the LHS plugs yesterday afternoon and made some progress. I had to move the evap purge valve out of the way to get even a low profile mini-bit wrench onto the coilpack screw for the cylinder beside the suspension turret and managed to get that one changed. That plug took a *lot* of force to undo and the ceramic section on the old plug was cracked when it came out, possibly just as a result of undoing it though. At some point while removing that one I managed to cut my hand and was bleeding quite a bit so I just got the new plug in and the coilpack pushed into place and stopped to clean my hand up. I'll carry on later today, hopefully that was the most difficult one to do.

I did note that the old plugs are a different heat range than the new ones, old ones are 6 so a hotter range than the new ones of 7. Whether that will bring any appreciable difference remains to be seen.

 

Is their much difference between the gaps of the new plugs / old

 

No idea, I haven't found my feeler gauges yet, I'll have a proper look later. They don't look to have a much bigger gap than the new ones though, certainly.

 

Persevere 8 you will get there at end of the day all a learning curve , I done mine on the xkr 2 year back , You think that's hard lol try doing the supercharged oil removal on a 5 litre jag with the drain / fill plug at rear of engine .

 

Ps. Asda have 5w20 full synthetic own brand oil for £24 for a 4l flask , matching ford spec for the xkr grab a bargain wile you can

 

All done, last three plugs changed last night. Still maintain it's a pig of a job, when you look at the hose routing on the passenger side there's no need for them to be in the way, Jaguar could easily have used routing that keeps those out of the way. They could easily have changed the cable routing for the coilpack cables so that the LHS coils were rotated 180 degrees to match the ones on the RHS, that way those bolts would have been easier to access. Anyway, all done and the car starts and runs fine, it felt great last night but that could be because the air was cool and crisp and I've not driven it for weeks.

Regards oil, I wouldn't put that even in the boot of my car, never mind the engine. It's not 5w-20 any more it's 0w-20 and Jaguar only approve a particular spec, STJLR.03.5006. Currently only two products meet this spec, Castrol Edge Professional E C5 0W-20 and Mobil 1 X2 ESP 0W-20. Plenty of coverage on this subject on here.