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Electrics went nuts

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  #1  
Old 03-18-2014, 11:28 PM
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Default Electrics went nuts

Went out to start the car today and hit the brake and start button. Car wouldn't turn over and first warning to come up was parking brake. Released parking brake and tried again. Then lights started going on and off, windshield wiper went on and passenger airbag light was on dash but wouldn't start. All the little icons on the speedo were lit.I tried putting the key fob in the console but it made no difference and then it wouldn't come out. After a couple more tries on the start everything seemed to go dead except the running lights were on.

I called dealer and they said it was probably the battery so I plugged the battery tender in. Then there was a clicking sound and the front running lights were acting like the emergency blinkers were on. I disconnected battery and everything went off. Then I reconnected battery and battery tender and the front lights (not headlights)went on again. I left it charging and came out an hour later and the lights had gotten dimmer. It was like the system was still on so I tried hitting the stop button but couldn't get everything to shut off.

I just went out (10 hrs later) and the battery tender shows it is still charging but now everything is dead.

It seems like the system is still on and is draining everything the battery tender is trying
to recharge.

No sure whether to call for a jump start or a tow truck in the morning.

Any ideas?
 
  #2  
Old 03-19-2014, 01:05 AM
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How old is the battery? Original factory batteries last anywhere from 3-5 years depending on how well they were maintained and charged. There should be a date code on it. The tender is not high current enough to run the car. Likely the battery has a bad cell or more and is toast. Without a fully charged battery, your car is going to exhibit all sorts of bizarre behavior. There are numerous threads on this forum regarding these concerns.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:47 AM
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Try charging for 12+ hrs with battery off the car (unhooking -ve is enough).
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:42 AM
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A truly dead battery will just suck power out of the charger & do nothing with it other than get warm. If JagV8's suggestion doesn't work, i.e. you reconnect the battery after a 12-hour charge and it still won't start, or it will start but there are loads of weird symptoms/messages, it's new battery time. BTW, after reconnecting the battery:

Sequence to re-program XK after new battery install
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:51 AM
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I'll chime in with this, last summer I was on the expressway in my XJR when my dash lit up with every conceivable warning message/ICON. Fortunately, I was able to limp home. As it turned out, my battery was at it's end of life. Replaced Battery, all was good.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:25 AM
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Over the years I've collect 3 chargers. The smart (float) charger for battery maintenance (3 Amp). A 5 Amp trickle charger and a 100 amp charger for starting and quick charging. I also picked up a load tester which will give you a quick test of the battery. I found any battery that would not turn the motor over usually fails the load test. What I have been reading on this site (very informative) is the XK is a high current usage and there is a need to keep/replace the battery on a timely basis.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
...the XK is a high current usage and there is a need to keep/replace the battery on a timely basis.
Yes, particularly if the car isn't driven regularly and the battery isn't kept topped up with a maintainer of some sort. If it's a daily (or every couple of days) driver, and it gets a reasonable 30-40 minute drive, then it will probably be fine for much longer than if you drive it once a week and don't stick a maintainer onto it.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:57 AM
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Bad cell in battery will raise havoc with things! By chance is OE battery a Varta. They are junk as all of us Lotus types know!

Interestingly, stock battery in my 04 XJ VDP lasted 7 yrs and was still fine but I knew it was time to avoid its finale.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:58 AM
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The Christmas Tree effect was my first indication that rats had chewed my electricals.

*edit: not in the Jag, and car still started.
 

Last edited by Muddydog; 03-19-2014 at 09:02 AM.
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2014, 09:02 AM
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I think every serious DIY wrencher, should have a battery load tester. I've diagnosed a number of my and neighbors battery ills with mine. Easy to use with the added benefit of testing your alt's output under load too. Also, not real spendy.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RedRider48
I think every serious DIY wrencher, should have a battery load tester. I've diagnosed a number of my and neighbors battery ills with mine. Easy to use with the added benefit of testing your alt's output under load too. Also, not real spendy.
Thanks RedRider48.....

Took your advice and spent $29.99 @ Amazon

Looks like a great addition to the tool chest....

Amazon.com: Schumacher BT-100 100 amp Battery Load Tester: Automotive Amazon.com: Schumacher BT-100 100 amp Battery Load Tester: Automotive


Amazon Prime product.....free shipping.. 2 day delivery...no sales tax

Looks like I will be testing a few batteries.

Hope this helps other Jaguar XK/XKR owners.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:31 PM
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There is no reason to guess or to test. The symptoms described are exactly those of terminal battery failure on the XK (I have seen these same symptoms on the XK of a friend, while far from home). Virtually ALL of the electrical/electronic "issues" ascribed to the XK are the result of low battery voltage. This car needs a NEW, not a recharged battery- and it also need a CTEK battery minder permanently installed and used when the car is not in use. The result will be ZERO issues with the XK in this regard, and sure starts, every time.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:53 PM
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Hey Guys,
I see where Ctek is mentioned quite a bit. How is it different from the "Battery Tender"?
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRider48
Hey Guys,
I see where Ctek is mentioned quite a bit. How is it different from the "Battery Tender"?
Its not. I have a Battery Tender Plus and it has every function the Ctek has and is just as easy to attach. The issue is not what charger you have, but to ensure that you develop the habit of using it when the car is not in use daily. If you set it up initially so that you simply plug it in via the hardwired plug in the trunk, then there's no excuse, other than memory, not to keep the battery in top shape.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRider48
Hey Guys,
I see where Ctek is mentioned quite a bit. How is it different from the "Battery Tender"?
I have bought the CTEK 3300 from a solid recommendation from a forum member whom I consider a Jaguar expert. Also because of the following.......

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-111928/page2/

Dated 2-18-2014 Post #21.

Spend a few minutes to read this post#21....most of the MAJOR automobile manufactuers fully endorse the CTEK product and sell them to their end automotive users under there own private label. I also suggest that you use the link provided under "Benefits of the CTEK".

It's good reading and informative.

And take this advice......as I did....from a Jaguar EXPERT.

Originally Posted by sov211
There is no reason to guess or to test. The symptoms described are exactly those of terminal battery failure on the XK (I have seen these same symptoms on the XK of a friend, while far from home). Virtually ALL of the electrical/electronic "issues" ascribed to the XK are the result of low battery voltage. This car needs a NEW, not a recharged battery- and it also need a CTEK battery minder permanently installed and used when the car is not in use. The result will be ZERO issues with the XK in this regard, and sure starts, every time.
 

Last edited by richzak; 03-19-2014 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:55 PM
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It seems that the CTEK battery maintainers definitely help with the battery charge, but is an AGM battery still recommended as the preferred battery type?
 
  #17  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by amcdonal86
It seems that the CTEK battery maintainers definitely help with the battery charge, but is an AGM battery still recommended as the preferred battery type?
If the AGM battery was the "preferred battery type" Jaguar would put them in cars upon production and distribution to end users.

Here again, IMO...a lead-acid sealed battery with a maintainer will handle the needs of the car well. I see no need to go through extra expense to install the AGM.

However, some end users may feel better and secure by owning and installing the AGM. I guess it comes down to "whatever floats your boat" and how much you're willing to spend.

Just my .02 cents worth, which is probably not worth too much.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 03:46 PM
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Lead acid batteries are still OE choice for only one reason--->they're much cheaper!
Manufacturer saves 25-50 per car it adds up quickly!
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 03:51 PM
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Yep, it was the battery.

I've had 3 batteries go bad before, 2 in my 2007 XK and 1 in my 2008 XKR. But they were nothing like this, they were just dead in the morning. This thing went crazy. As I mentioned, when I pushed the start button, lights started flashing, different messages kept coming up faster than I could read them, windshield wipers took a swipe, and I think I hear a few beeps or chimes. And then there was no way to shut it off. I kept hitting the start button but it wouldn't shut off. It took about 2 hours before everything finally went dead.

The battery had been replaced in May 2012 (21 months ago) and I use the Battery Tender Plus about every 2 weeks (when I see the Jaguar screen starting stick) to bring it up to full charge since I only drive it a couple times a week for short distances.

So I called Interstate Batteries since that is what Jaguar uses and they said the MT5-49-H8 AGM (recommended by people on the Forum) would cost about $300. I told them I saw it on their site for $265 and they said they would match it, plus tax and $7 installation, but they couldn't give me anything for my present Interstate since it was bought through Jaguar.

I called my local Jag dealer and they said they would try to get me something for my old battery. I told them I wanted the AGM battery and they said she would find out. They called back and said I could get the AGM for the difference in price between the standard Jaguar Interstate battery and the Interstate AGM which was $70. I did have to pay $135 charge to have it installed and the codes reset. Fine with me, I'll pay for piece of mind.

I called my insurance company and they sent out a guy to jump start me. I was a bit nervous when he was attaching the cables, hoping that I was no going to see blinking lights and pandemonium again but nothing happened other than the trunk lights lit. I got in and it started right up. Whew! Everything was fine backing out of the garage but when I put it in drive there was a beeping and a message saying "push brake pedal and parking brake". I stopped and hit brake pedal and put the parking brake on and off but it didn't stop. I drove a couple miles and at a traffic light I tried again and it finally went off.

I left it running at the dealership and they drove it in. In 1 1/2 hours I was on my way. I did notice that the Nav Screen and the message area between the speedo and tach are brighter than ever. Also it seems a lot faster, ha.

When I got home I checked the battery and it has a big sticker Interstate MT5-49/H8, 30 mo replacement. So I'm good for 2 1/2 years. Hopefully I'll be in a new F Type R Coupe or whatever replaces the XKR by then.

Thanks again for the help guys.

Jack
 

Last edited by jleuz1; 03-19-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jleuz1
Everything was fine backing out of the garage but when I put it in drive there was a beeping and a message saying "push brake pedal and parking brake". I stopped and hit brake pedal and put the parking brake on and off but it didn't stop. I drove a couple miles and at a traffic light I tried again and it finally went off.
Yeah, that's the electronic parking brake wanting to recalibrate itself - its settings get lost when the battery has been disconnected (or died, as in your case).
 


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