Engine sounds. 4.2L XKR
Thought I’d record a cold start and after warm up (idle drops).
As a new XKR owner, have no idea what is a good sound or a bad sound.
Few things.
— Right at start and at the point where the idle drops, the car shakes. Pretty hard for a second or two.
Is that due to the engine/trans mounts needing replacement?
— As the idle drops, there is a loud click. I think you can hear it in the first video. Guessing something is engaging or a sensor turns something on.
You guys hear anything of concern?Cold start:
Engine warm:
Thanks as always!
As a new XKR owner, have no idea what is a good sound or a bad sound.
Few things.
— Right at start and at the point where the idle drops, the car shakes. Pretty hard for a second or two.
Is that due to the engine/trans mounts needing replacement?
— As the idle drops, there is a loud click. I think you can hear it in the first video. Guessing something is engaging or a sensor turns something on.
You guys hear anything of concern?Cold start:
Engine warm:
Thanks as always!
Generally hard to tell through video as the mic does make some noises louder than in real life. But the car sounds fine to me. Most of that noise is just usual engine stuff. You could check the engine mounts and see if there's any leakage/misting as I believe they're fluid filled. But if they're that far gone you'd likely notice knocking when you go on/off throttle quickly.
Generally hard to tell through video as the mic does make some noises louder than in real life. But the car sounds fine to me. Most of that noise is just usual engine stuff. You could check the engine mounts and see if there's any leakage/misting as I believe they're fluid filled. But if they're that far gone you'd likely notice knocking when you go on/off throttle quickly.
On the list of first things to have done.
Is that a worn idler pulley I hear as well?
You will learn that she likes clean oil, filled to spec. Wander away from that and she gets “tickety” and “rough”.
Clean air filters make a huge difference.
As does a well cleaned and sealed throttle body.
When she starts to be thirsty on the oil, change the PCV valve.
You will learn that she likes clean oil, filled to spec. Wander away from that and she gets “tickety” and “rough”.
Clean air filters make a huge difference.
As does a well cleaned and sealed throttle body.
When she starts to be thirsty on the oil, change the PCV valve.
Last edited by guy; Aug 31, 2025 at 06:52 AM.
Do you have the Engine Appearance Cover? It helps reduce engine noises a bit.
When I get home from a drive and am parked in my garage, I always open the hood (bonnet) to let the heat escape to prolong the longevity of the rubber parts in the engine compartment. I also check the fluid levels in the clear reservoirs to see if there are signs of any leaks.
When I get home from a drive and am parked in my garage, I always open the hood (bonnet) to let the heat escape to prolong the longevity of the rubber parts in the engine compartment. I also check the fluid levels in the clear reservoirs to see if there are signs of any leaks.
When I get home from a drive and am parked in my garage, I always open the hood (bonnet) to let the heat escape to prolong the longevity of the rubber parts in the engine compartment. I also check the fluid levels in the clear reservoirs to see if there are signs of any leaks.
Last edited by Circumnavigator; Aug 31, 2025 at 01:51 PM.
Ugh, hope not that sounds expensive. Or at least tedious. AI tells me it’s a simple 1hr job for a pro and $100 for parts. No idea.
Yeah, she is in oil limbo with a couple of faux pas.
for some random reason, she was 2-3 quarts down when I had her inspected. The guys messed up and overfilled her (3/8” above full line on stick) and put in 5w20 instead of 5w30. Which of course just splits the difference. So she has basically 5w24 lol.
Been a week building my tools and equipment. Jack, stands, torque wrenches arrive today, etc.
Then I will do a full drain/filter/refill.
As soon as my “soft coated 19m” socket and torque wrench gets here today, I’ll take a peek at the air filters. Need to remove a few screws in the wells anyway to drop the under cover in the front.
Ok, oil hasn’t dropped since she was slightly overfilled. So no worries there yet. Thank goodness as it requires SC removal (in which case I’d do the valley hoses in aluminum at the same time). Whew, says 8-12hrs labor at my indie shop. So a $2k job not including valley hoses.
Appreciate the feedback as always, gives me things to ask the shop this coming Thursday.
for some random reason, she was 2-3 quarts down when I had her inspected. The guys messed up and overfilled her (3/8” above full line on stick) and put in 5w20 instead of 5w30. Which of course just splits the difference. So she has basically 5w24 lol.
Been a week building my tools and equipment. Jack, stands, torque wrenches arrive today, etc.
Then I will do a full drain/filter/refill.
Ok, oil hasn’t dropped since she was slightly overfilled. So no worries there yet. Thank goodness as it requires SC removal (in which case I’d do the valley hoses in aluminum at the same time). Whew, says 8-12hrs labor at my indie shop. So a $2k job not including valley hoses.
Appreciate the feedback as always, gives me things to ask the shop this coming Thursday.
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Is that a worn idler pulley I hear as well?
You will learn that she likes clean oil, filled to spec. Wander away from that and she gets “tickety” and “rough”.
Clean air filters make a huge difference.
As does a well cleaned and sealed throttle body.
When she starts to be thirsty on the oil, change the PCV valve.
You will learn that she likes clean oil, filled to spec. Wander away from that and she gets “tickety” and “rough”.
Clean air filters make a huge difference.
As does a well cleaned and sealed throttle body.
When she starts to be thirsty on the oil, change the PCV valve.
Do you have the Engine Appearance Cover? It helps reduce engine noises a bit.
When I get home from a drive and am parked in my garage, I always open the hood (bonnet) to let the heat escape to prolong the longevity of the rubber parts in the engine compartment. I also check the fluid levels in the clear reservoirs to see if there are signs of any leaks.
When I get home from a drive and am parked in my garage, I always open the hood (bonnet) to let the heat escape to prolong the longevity of the rubber parts in the engine compartment. I also check the fluid levels in the clear reservoirs to see if there are signs of any leaks.
Had to replace engine and trans mounts at around 50K miles. Drive shaft coupler rubbers also prone to dry rot.
@Circumnavigator (incidentally, I am very much a sailor) fwiw, I use 0W20
Dm'd you about the sailing thing as I'm sure most of these guys don't want a derailed thread.
Sailing is Life.
@Circumnavigator (incidentally, I am very much a sailor) fwiw, I use 0W20
When you engine shakes going down to idle, is the transmission engaged? A shake at that RPM can be a dirty throttle body valve.
Your small coolant leak maybe resolved by going over to Evan's coolant. No pressure!
Your small coolant leak maybe resolved by going over to Evan's coolant. No pressure!
One of yuck shake when starting engine then one quick (but a second longer) shake when dropping to lower idle.
I’ll add the dirty throttle body valve to the list for the indie.
Evan’s coolant. Added to my notes. Thanks!
Getting back to the OP's "engine sounds",
My car with 192,000 kms purrs like a kitten, and growls when I make her earn her living. (which she needs to do frequently)
No unnecessary ticking, whirrs or taps. (Now that SCV6 in the LR4 is a different matter)
She has perfect cylinder compression and does not burn or consume oil.
Last oil analysis showed very minimal wear with no concerns.
But she does get an oil change every 5000 kms. (I think WSS M2C913-B is conventional oil) She only gets the full synthetic equivalent... and only ever did from 2500 kms. Yes, at 50,000 kms I moved to 0W20.
Most other fluids and filters are equally changed as frequently:
Brake fluid,
Coolant,
Differential fluid,
Engine air filter,
Fuel filter,
PCV valve
Power Steering fluid,
Super charger oil
Transmission fluid.
Fuel is strictly a Top Tier 91 or 93 octane. And very, very rarely with alcohol mixed.
My car with 192,000 kms purrs like a kitten, and growls when I make her earn her living. (which she needs to do frequently)
No unnecessary ticking, whirrs or taps. (Now that SCV6 in the LR4 is a different matter)
She has perfect cylinder compression and does not burn or consume oil.
Last oil analysis showed very minimal wear with no concerns.
But she does get an oil change every 5000 kms. (I think WSS M2C913-B is conventional oil) She only gets the full synthetic equivalent... and only ever did from 2500 kms. Yes, at 50,000 kms I moved to 0W20.
Most other fluids and filters are equally changed as frequently:
Brake fluid,
Coolant,
Differential fluid,
Engine air filter,
Fuel filter,
PCV valve
Power Steering fluid,
Super charger oil
Transmission fluid.
Fuel is strictly a Top Tier 91 or 93 octane. And very, very rarely with alcohol mixed.
While mine is an XK..
Had a funny yesterday...
Tried to exit the car....
Didn't realize it was still running....thought I shut her down....
Ah..life is good!
No.. I'm not hard of hearing....
Had a funny yesterday...
Tried to exit the car....
Didn't realize it was still running....thought I shut her down....
Ah..life is good!
No.. I'm not hard of hearing....
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