Removing the left bank cover you need first to remove the oil stick tube. I never succeeded that...And if I did how the hell can it be stuck back in without access???

How did you take it out ?

Thanks

 

See post #58 in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-199975/page3/

 

That's a great tip for easy put the tube back but I can't pull it out....it won't move up enough to get it off the screw !
Any tip for that ?

Thanks

 

Some updates guys; So Ive been test driving this kitty up and down trying to work out the bugs and when she gets up and running she is smooth and quite fast. When Im idling I get an overheating warning, but if I rev up it cools down. Also when Im driving the temp is normal. I installed a new waterpump, thermostat, radiator, and coolant.
Next up is a stutter/skip while accelerating at low speeds. If I step on it, she gets up and goes, but during gentle acceleration I feel that stutter until I get to cruising speed, then she purrs along.
Last might not be an issue, I was getting 13.2v reading for the charging system. Replaced the battery and it went up to 13.6-13.7, but not the 14v+ I was expecting. Only code thats it thrown these last two days is O2 sensor bank 1. Im still burning off the oil that is in the exhaust from the last engine before I try swapping out the O2. I can smell it burning a little still and after a nice run she smokes a little.
Any suggestions, ideas, or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regarding the engine overheating, has that issue gone away now that you've installed a new coolant pump, thermostat, and radiator?

Regarding the engine performance under moderate acceleration, perhaps the mass air flow sensor needs to be removed and sprayed with MAF cleaner spray?

13.6VDC seems low for the alternator output - do you believe that your digital multimeter is accurate? For example if you measure a fresh new 9V alkaline battery, what measurement do you get? It should be around 9.6V.

 

The cooling issue it despite the fact that I swapped out all those parts. I did them when the engine was out as a preemptive move, and to start with a solid baseline moving forward with the ownership and maintenance of the car.
MAF is my next move, that’s the first thing that came to mind. As far as my multimeter, I have a snap on one and also a snap on battery/alternator tester. I tested with both.

 

Since the engine overheating appears to occur only when the car is at a stop, I suggest you check the operation of the radiator fans. Turn on the air conditioner compressor, and satisfy yourself that the fans are sucking air from the front grille so the air flows towards the engine.

Also, is the engine coolant level remaining at the top of the overflow reservoir; or have you noticed that the level is not stable?

 

Is there a way to ensure that all the air is out of the system?

 

I am not aware of a way other than keeping the engine coolant level full at the reservoir and checking to make sure the level is not dropping.

 

The old Lincoln LSs had two bleeder ports in the engine compartment to evacuate the cooling system. It was really a pita to get those things filled properly. I know, that doesn't help a bit.

 

Use a vacuum bleeder.

 

So swapping out the battery got my voltage up to 13.9+ after a couple of runs, and now my overheating at idle has gone away. im thinking the fans were not spinning fast enough due to low voltage and my coolant level has remained the same so I doubt its an air in the coolant system issue. So the voltage is up, car is not getting too warm, now the last one, the stutter at low speed and mild acceleration. I went ahead and ordered two pre cat O2 sensors, since thats the code Im getting, they get here tomorrow. I already cleaned the maf so we will see how it goes. Cant wait to just drive and enjoy.

 

Not sure you would notice the coolant level change for an air bubble moving out of the system. But I am glad the overheating has gone away. I doubt the fan speed due to a lower battery charge would be the explanation. Probably an air bubble finally dislodged.

 

Well guys it’s been a while but I have been working on this steadily and I’m 95% done. The drivability issue was due to one bad cat. Actually it was fully deteriorated, there was nothing but chunks inside the catalyst. And once I put a new battery on it all my voltage issues are gone. The cooling issue has still been plaguing me. I thought it was gone but it’s not cooling fully well.
I thinks it’s the aftermarket water pump I bought. I have supporting evidence, but just thought I’d post it and get your guys take on it.

The white is the OEM, Black one is acdelco. Notice the overall size of the passages coming off of the impeller. Also the coolant passages are bigger. The impeller shape and material are different and so are the vanes.

Overall it’s just bigger than the aftermarket wp.

So the next thing I’m going to do is swap it out with the OEM and I’m 99% sure that’s going to fix the issue.

 

I swapped out the water pump from acdelco to OEM and she keeps nice and cool all day! Before with the aftermarket pump the temp would slowly creep up, little by little and around 225 I would rev it up and it would cool down in about 15-20 seconds.
Now with the OEM pump it never passes 206. It threw more than a few techs for a loop. No one even considered it. I did research and found a few customers complaining about that pump in other ford/Lincoln models. Apparently they use it for several cars. Their complaint was all the same, temp high at idle.
Once I compared them side by side I was sure of it. First time I’ve ever seen an aftermarket pump not keep up with Oem. Well she runs just great. All I have left is a tpms module to swap out, a headliner to repair, and some scuffs on the rims to buff out. Once I get it detailed I post some pics. Thanks for all the help and comments!

 

I finally got around to taking apart the original engine. It had been sitting on a stand for the past year in the back of the shop. We needed the stand for another project so I finally stripped the top end so that I can have some spare parts. All the damage was caused from sucking water in through the intake. It was about 7-8 inches deep (flooding at intersection). Not enough to get inside the interior of the vehicle but enough for the engine to suck it up.

Broken block where head bolt threads into block

Cylinder 1 broken piston


Cylinder 5 had a broken connecting rod and the piston was being slapped by the valves

 

Thanks for sharing the carnage! 😬😬😬

 

Thanks for this @Vincesandoval718 . One of the more interesting threads of late. And the education I got from looking at the damage... surprised and happy to know about that.

I like the way you think, there typically IS a difference between OEM and others. Yes, that stubborn cats issue... I think most of us have been there.
It was useful to know there is no bleed port for the coolant... I open the top plug on the supercharger to do that job... but this fact irritates me... why doesn’t every engine have a bleed port at the highest level.

Just completed a refresher on marine diesels... man those engines are much more simpler than ours, lol.
gets me thinking... maybe I need a new Defender - diesel. Oh that’s right, I live in Canada and some bonehead marketing idiot at HQ decided we need gas engines and not diesels over here...

Back on the theme, well done! Enjoy your ride.

 

Hi Vince! Im new to the Forum. I have a question in respect to the electronics. When swapping engine since all modules including the instrument cluster i believe the ECM/PCM KVM BCM etc are coded for the vehicle did you encounter any issue? Did you have to swap the Engine ECU or original ECU was used (only engine swap). Any coding required.

Thank you

 

You retain original ECU .

There's two plugs that go to it .