This afternoon I went to Snappy Lube to get my oil changed. Yeah, yeah, yeah... I took my own oil. Long story short, they broke the coolant line that passes near the oil filter.

I was sitting in the waiting room watching car after car get finished ahead of mine. After I had been there almost an hour I went out where my car was and the dude working on the car apologized and told me that they "found a broken pipe and they sent someone to Walmart to get some Gorilla Tape to fix it".

I was like "WTF are you talking about? There was no broken pipe when I brought the car in." He showed me the "broken pipe". It was the coolant line that goes to the expansion tank. There was coolant sprayed all over the right side of the engine near the oil filter. Apparently, when they were removing the oil filter they somehow broke the coolant line that goes to the expansion tank. (See the pic below)

The dude pointed it out to me. He told me that they would fix it (with Gorilla tape). It was obvious that they had broken it, otherwise they wouldn't be trying to fix it. I saw where the line went and I pointed out to the dude that it's a pressure line. It has 140 kpa in it. Gorilla tape wasn't going to fix it. He stared at me like a deer in the headlights.

The dude showed up with the tape. I told him that I would do it. I tried to tape the two pieces together to at least get me home. It was obviously that wasn't going to work. When I got in the car it was already showing a low coolant fault on the dashboard display.

I have Torque on my tablet, so I opened it up to watch the coolant temp. I drove to Lowes and bought some tubing. I actually bought three different sizes because I didn't know what size I would need. I cut off a three inch piece and slipped it over the two broken ends of the tube to make a splice. I used some zip ties to hold it tight. It held until I got home. Coolant temps never got above 216 or so.

One I got home I made a better splice using some super-hefty shrink wrap that I have. It has sealant on the inside and it fits over my thumb when cold but shrinks down smaller than my pinky (see the pic).

Anyway... it looks like it's holding for now, but I'm going to take it to the Jag dealer as soon as possible to have the hose replaced.

Here's the pic of the final temp repair. I used about 5 inches of seriously thick shrink wrap tubing with some built-in sealant and a few zip ties to hold the two sides together. That should get me to the Jag dealer to get this tube replaced.

 

Here's a pic of the broken tube. Sorry... it's a little fuzzy.

 

That big round thing is the oil filter.

So does anyone know how much the Jag dealer is going to charge me to replace this 14 inch piece of tubing?

 

My bet is most likely they won't have it in stock and it will take a few days to get it. Next look at their labor rate and it may be between $140-$160 per hour so you're talking at least and hour then the antifreeze and the part with my guess would be another $60 so make sure you got the bill to take back to the oil change place and good luck. My dealer oil change cost me $160 as a reference.

 

Next time I'll just take it to the dealer.

My sister is a lawyer (ambulance chaser). Today is my birthday and she called me to wish me happy birthday while I was driving home. I told her what happened. She was like "They are responsible! You should sue them in small claims court!"

That's not exactly my style, but when I get the bill from the Jag dealer I'm definitely going to take it to Snappy Lube.

 

OMG, that’s horrible.

 

My first oil change on my 2010 I did the same thing while removing the oil filter cap, but I included the vacuum line that ALSO runs right across that same spot. I got some automotive tubing and Worm Clamps from Auto Zone and fixed it in like ten minutes. That was.... six??? years ago and I've not had a problem since.
Those crappy stupid plastic pipes are a debacle. I'd not get them replaced with OEM, because then you still have the crappy stupid plastic pipes that are a debacle. I'm quite happy with my "temp" fix. It's mostly covered by the engine cover anyway, so what's the big deal?

 

Back to YOUR oil change, Sam.....
Did Snappy Lube suck the oil out the top or drain it from the bottom? Most places drain the sump out-of-hand and don't even bother researching the proper way to do things. The entire change SHOULD have taken like maybe fifteen minutes, max.
You always seem quite capable, I'm just surprised that you'd not do the oil change yourself. Easy-peasey, it is. Don't need any lifts, pans, laying on your back..... and barely any leaning over.

 

It is actually quite a complex pipe and splits in two at the front of the engine. The plastic bits become very brittle and one of the connectors broke on my '10 spraying coolant all over the top of the engine so it isn't too surprising yours has broken.

The part number is C2P13304 and I bought one on EBAY from a dealer for US$38.

There is a catch though. I think they have changed the connection where it attaches to the front of the engine and you may have to buy different hoses to convert to the new style. I just went with the part I quoted though and it was fine on mine.

The other thing is that a lot of the pictures on EBAY, etc don't look right but that is probably just a Jaguar parts book issue. This site shows what it should look like:

https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...ion-tank-p5940

 

Please tell me Snappy Lube at least didn't charge you forthe oild change and screwing up your ride! I would hope they'd be all over your with apologies and voucher discounts after that.

 

With so much plastic on todays engines this is going to happen as things get older. You cant look at them wrong without breaking. Had that been a good piece and not brittle to start with you can bend them in half and not break them. As carefull as we try to be with known issues like this, if they break we replace them and the customer pays. And anytime im doing coolant repair i always quote those bleed pipes because they many times break removing them. If they dont and theyre old it just does not pay to leave them because they often break, esecially when a car has broken engine mounts too. That piece does not have a update and yes you can easily change it rev. Pop off the little clips on the engine side, remove the pipe, lube the orings on the new pipe and snap in place on the tubes on the engine. Connect at the reservoir and follow proper bleed and fill proceedures.

 

What part of Snappy Lube did you miss sir.
Did you really think the pimple faced kid that stands in the oil pit all day is a MIT graduate and loves his job.
Did you really expect more for $15. And you already used a coupon sir!


Quick lubes have the most number of lawsuits against them.
Due to a perfect storm meeting. This is what happens when you drive margins and prices to the bottom of the barrel. And also many folks that go there have old aging vehicles and blame them. (like they made my water pump fail)

 

My last two oil changes have gone awry as well. I do the same thing - buy my own oil and filter then go to the local oil change place (5 min oil change).

The first time, I checked my oil level when I got home and it had a quart too much oil in there.

So the next time I insisted on seeing the dipstick when they were done. It was good. However, I was driving about a week later and heard a scraping sound under the car. Took a look and the plastic panel was dragging on the ground. He must have put the bolts back on hand tight and forgot to tighten them and they later fell off.

Won't be going back there again.

 

A quart too much in the 5.0 engine would have caused havoc.

Look its an IQ test,
if you own a delicate $100,000 car, do you really want to take it to the cheapest place possible where they dont have proper mechanics working on the car?
Do you really want a completely clueless kid making minimum wage who could not get hired at taco bell working in your engine?
That would be like choosing to eat your sushi from a styrofoam plate in a public restroom. Why cheapen the experience or have sushi in the first place.

Bottomline is if you are willing to screw a man out of a decent wage for decent expertise, expect to get screwed.

 

I suspect that even dealerships have "less experienced" personnel in their lube bays while using more experienced/qualified mechanics for more complex duties. Just a guess and it probably varies from location to location. Eveyone has to start somewhere, I'd would just prefer it's not on my car since I'm paying for it.

That said, like many others, I do my own changes on the vert so if something goes awry I know who to blame. My other vehicles get oil changes at a dealership rather than quicky businesses.

 

Am I to understand that Snappy Lube snapped your tube??

All jokes aside, I would never trust a quicky lube spot for my Jag oil changes.

Even on my 2016 Hyundia - took it there for an oil change, opened the trunk a day later only to find my front air deflector laying there. They said they couldn't get it back on because the bolt threads were stripped, on a 2 year old car. So they didn't bother to tell me, and somehow were able to get it off but not back on - yeah, right. I won't even imagine what they would mess up on my XKR.

Never again.

 

At least the dealership should/may have the part in stock they broke. I am for bringing my car to the dealer for an oil change on fancy cars. It's once a year and I like it to be on lift with certified mechanic looking around to what else may need addressing.

 

Sam,
Why not do your own oil changes? For a $120.00 investment you can do it in 20 minutes or less, with no mess using the tools below. Under the oil filler cap is a central oil suction line, all built in for you. Suck out the oil, change the filter while doing that, then refill. Easy.


https://www.motivxtools.com/products...SABEgKeIfD_BwE

Regards,
white Bear.

 

Sometimes the temptation of 'not getting your hands dirty' appeals

In the case of my Audi I had a coolant and brake fluid change for £54/$67, they did however not reattach the undertray properly which involved me having to order a complete new set of fixings (£15) and the quick service place refunded me £30. So apart from the hassle I had a brake and coolant change for £39/$48, never an issue with the actual fluid changes.

I consider that a favourable result and would happily take it back to them again...I'd just make sure they reattach all of the undershield bolts before leaving

But agreed the routing/positioning of those pipes is just plain stupid

 

I griped and complained and they knocked $15 off the total price.

I was planning a one day road trip for the next day (today). The guy who sold it to me a week earlier told me that the oil had just been changed. I assumed he was telling the truth, but I figured an extra $100 wasn't a big deal just to make sure. I just wanted to make sure there was fresh oil in the engine. I was in a hurry to get **** done, so I took it to Snappy Lube. I figured they could change the oil in 20 minutes.

This is what I will do going forward. I was just in a hurry and I wanted a quick oil change.