Huh. engine calls for 0w20, and you think going to 10w30 is a no brainer...
Oil starvation at startup was identified as a problem. The moving from Xw20 to Xw30 on a car with many miles is debatable. But is moving from 0w to 10w wise?

 

@Dobber identified your problem in post #6. Why not replace the cam chain tensioners before something bad happens?
The SC snout bearings may need help too. Maybe @Cee Jay will look at post #11 and share an opinion.
As far as 1Qt of oil per 1000 miles: While it does sound a bit like a diesel (burning oil?), it is much more likely that valve covers, and timing chain cover are leaking.

PS: The tensioners have been greatly improved. Make sure that you get the newest version.
PPS: There is a TSB about a potential oil leak on the rear of the early 5.0L engine due to a thin casting on the oil passage.

Good luck. Let us know if/how you resolve the issue.

 

Yeah, tensioners are upgraded, it's definitely not timing chain noise, no S/C. Actually it's pretty quiet at all times apart from when this ticking noise begins after a hot start for a short while. I'm suspecting something to do with a vvt phaser.

 

There is no oil pressure sensor, just the temp/level sender in the oil pan. As you found the pressure test adapter goes in place of the oil filter cap and has a gauge to attach. Spec is 2 bar (29psi) at idle cold (68 degrees F), shooting up to 6 bar (87psi) by 1500 rpms. Id suspect an oil issue or a tappet issue, the dual profile cams with the switching tappets is a lot of moving parts. The fact that it's consistent at half engine speed leads to a camshaft speed related component, like a VVT gear or tappet. If your oil pressure is low at idle but goes up ok with revs, then I'd try a thicker oil at first to see if it comes up. Might just be getting a bit of age to it and clearances aren't what they used to be. If the pressure doesn't come up, or it's good at idle and you have the noise anyway, I would assume a more mechanical failure and it may be time to prepare for a more invasive diagnostic path, and potentially painful repair.

One thing you could try is unplugging the VVTs and restarting it when it's warmed up enough to make the noise. They should lock in the default position and it may change or eliminate the noise. If the noise is a snapped off locking pin inside though, it won't change anything. Usually this would give timing/correlation faults, but not always depending on the exact failure.

 

A lot of discussion here, maybe I missed it:
@Spurge Did you mention miles/Km on the odometer?
Tensioners were replaced with newest version of JLR OEM parts last year? Aftermarket?

For those following this post, attached illustrates the dual profile cam and switching tappets proposed by @RoverJoe.

 

All common sense suggestions, thankyou.

Tensioners/guides are genuine Landrover latest version, 4000 miles ago. Chains were not worn.
Total miles are 90k.

Next step: I will be trying the vvt solonoid disconnection test when I have time.

 

An update.

I had another go with a stethoscope but there was no way the clicking could be pinpointed. A length of vacuum cleaner hose to one ear helped put the noise near the front of engine but not which side.

Next step: I disconnected each vvt solonoid in turn. This had no effect. (Apart from creating fault codes!)

Next I activated the solonoids individually, they have the same connector as the brake wear sensors- a ready made lead. A quick connection from a 12v source to each solonoid in turn and I found the clicking quietened with the Right hand inlet and ceased completely with the Right hand exhaust. (Right and Left are looking from the front of the car)

So, it's something to do with the RH exhaust phasor.

The change in the noise due to activating the rh inlet phasor was I think because it altered the timing chain torque pulses between the two phasors.
I can only think the exhaust phasor is moving slightly against the locking pin. I appreciate this would be more pronounced with hotter, thinner oil but I don't understand why it only happens after a re-start then fades away.
Some may say it takes a while to build oil pressure, but not minutes???, and blipping the throttle normally rectifies that but after revving to 2 or 3000rpm the clicking resumes as the revs reduce to less than 1000. However, a rev to 4000 does cease the resumption of clicks.

I will just be monitoring it for now.
I don't think anything disastrous will occur so for me it's not currently worth a mechanical intervention.

Meanwhile I've heard from others with very similar knock or click noises except they have not been fading away as mine does. One chap has lived with it for 70,000 miles! Another has his booked in for timing chain, tensioners and phasors in a few weeks and promises to strip down the phasors.