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The polyurethane coating doesn't stay completely sealed, and it can be penetrated by a thin viscosity leather cleaner and conditioner like the OEM Jaguar and Griot's Garage products. Thicker products can't penetrate the PU coating and just sit on top of it.
This is correct, despite what some have claimed. AutoGlym Leather Balm and Lexol are two other excellent conditioners that quickly penetrate the surface colourant. The colourant is a water-based polymer coating, very long-wearing but in the presence of high heat, sun and dirt, is susceptible to cracking and abrasion...the use of a non-silicone conditioner formulated to penetrate the surface of modern leather is not only beneficial in maintaining the suppleness, but also protects against light abrasion and in some forumulae also provides UV protection.
If painted and sealed leather allowed anything with moisture behind the paint and sealant, I'd think it would detach and peel and other such horrible things. Every other substrate on the planet does that. Fact is, the best way to REMOVE paint and sealant is to get some sort of liquid substance behind it. Pops stuff right off that way.
I had my Fcar seats and door cards redone by an auto upholstery shop. They told me to use saddle soap and water to clean. They did a pretty good job for a 30 year old seat at the time.
If painted and sealed leather allowed anything with moisture behind the paint and sealant, I'd think it would detach and peel and other such horrible things. Every other substrate on the planet does that. Fact is, the best way to REMOVE paint and sealant is to get some sort of liquid substance behind it. Pops stuff right off that way.
Cee Jay,
See my post #14, above. The Dynamix leather dye that worked great to refinish my Ivory leather driver's side bolster is water-based. I applied it with a small sponge and it filled in the cracks, matched the color, and still looks like new. Because of the cracks, it got behind the PU coating. It didn't cause any peeling or other damage to the leather. It did the exact opposite and made it look like new. Great stuff and it's water based.
Stuart
Last edited by Stuart S; May 14, 2019 at 09:52 PM.
If you understand the enemy you will know exactly what to do.
Modern Leather has only one enemy- abrasion.
Look at any well used car, only the bolsters on the driver's entry will have deterioration.
All you need to do is keep the seat clean. My XE was leased so I thought I'd test out the theory that modern leather does not need conditioning. For three years I did not apply anything on the interior of that car. I wiped down the leather with well rung damp towel; that's it. When I returned the car, the interior was like new. No wear, no cracking or any of that... I could've told someone I put Lexol on the seats monthly and you'd not know...
I was most curious and decided to look around what this "Bond Leather" is.
Apparently this is offered in the lower priced Jaguar cars..and everyone has had the exact problem.
Both of those things indicate to me that this is characteristically bonded leather. Which I despise with a passion as I have never ever had anything with bonded leather, even belts last just a few uses.
This is what I would do in your shoes.
Have an upholstery sew a diamond pattern while you still can.
The stitching will provide the support and prevent stretching, which the underlying vinyl is unable to do.
This is precisely the problem that quilting and tufting was designed to solve, the improvement in looks is just an ancillary benefit.
You have to take it upon yourself to make a bit of a design change on this car. I have seen some here do it for just the looks. (perhaps someone else can post those pics)
I was wondering - I thought my dash was leather, but now I am not so sure. How do you know if the dash is leather or not?
Look at your seats, they are paired with your dash. If the seats have vertical stitching, running down the middle of the seat, from the front of the seat bottom and then up the seat back, like racing stripes, your corresponding dash is not leather:
If you only have stitching running horizontally across the seat and seat back, your dash is leather as well.
Look at your seats, they are paired with your dash. If the seats have vertical stitching, running down the middle of the seat, from the front of the seat bottom and then up the seat back, like racing stripes, your corresponding dash is not leather:
If you only have stitching running horizontally across the seat and seat back, your dash is leather as well.
Thanks. I thought it was leather, and this confirms it.
Interesting that nowhere on the bottle is "moisture" or "moisturizing" mentioned. They do mention maintaining the "original sheen level" of the leather, which seems to be a shot across the bow of Maguires, Lexol, all that. I've actually always liked the sheen level of the Jag interior.
Interesting that nowhere on the bottle is "moisture" or "moisturizing" mentioned. They do mention maintaining the "original sheen level" of the leather, which seems to be a shot across the bow of Maguires, Lexol, all that. I've actually always liked the sheen level of the Jag interior.
Thank you so much for posting that.
It looks identical to the bottle I use and its even called "leather protection cream"
Could you confirm if yours is made in Italy.
Its made by Uniters, who supply the trade.
Queen and Country: well I'll be damned. Took a little searching, but.... yep. Made In Italy.
Only difference I can see is that my bottle is smaller. Took a couple of shots of the "Leather Care Kit"-- threw in a bill to give you an idea of size. Two tiny bottles and that sad little sponge. (Which is meant to be for the cleaner, FYI. You're on your own for a "Clean Cloth" to use for the conditioner.)
My price was either 49 or 59 dollars, and I'm thinking it was 59. But I got that cool box!!
PK,
I spent the equivalent of hundreds to find the right thing. You did that by just paying $20 more. Wish I knew. You cant buy good service for $20, let alone tried and tested. (on a side note, thats how we have spiraled downwards in a race to the bottom, as no one believes in paying someone else for competency and perfection in this culture- Not so in Japan and Switzerland, or Germany)
Uniters is apparently to leather what Dow Dupont is chemicals. They are huge, they understand leather cause they have the only test facility in the the business. Yeah, I had to do a double take too. Look around, none of the other guys supplying leather care products are even in the leather manufacturing business. (just grandma's recipes- no joke)
"Dr. Leo Tork established the UNITERS Research Center nearly three decades ago. This advanced research facility is located in the heart of Italy’s leather manufacturing region where new products are developed, tested and perfected. As the only company in the industry with dedicated research and development facilities, UNITERS' team of scientists and researchers are consistently bringing the latest and most technologically advanced solutions to the marketplace.
UNITERS Research Centre offers a full-range of testing services.
Leather samples are evaluated through a combination of flex, rub, and light resistance test processes. After testing is complete, UNITERS technicians will provide a detailed report on the cause and solution."
I found them after reading an article by the British Leather Institute that leather does not need to be moisturized, if it could be, the oils from our perspiration would overload it. And abrasion was the enemy.
Thanks for confirming I have the right stuff, in a way I also confirmed you have the right stuff.
PK,
I spent the equivalent of hundreds to find the right thing. You did that by just paying $20 more. Wish I knew. You cant buy good service for $20, let alone tried and tested. (on a side note, thats how we have spiraled downwards in a race to the bottom, as no one believes in paying someone else for competency and perfection in this culture- Not so in Japan and Switzerland, or Germany)
Uniters is apparently to leather what Dow Dupont is chemicals. They are huge, they understand leather cause they have the only test facility in the the business. Yeah, I had to do a double take too. Look around, none of the other guys supplying leather care products are even in the leather manufacturing business. (just grandma's recipes- no joke)
"Dr. Leo Tork established the UNITERS Research Center nearly three decades ago. This advanced research facility is located in the heart of Italy’s leather manufacturing region where new products are developed, tested and perfected. As the only company in the industry with dedicated research and development facilities, UNITERS' team of scientists and researchers are consistently bringing the latest and most technologically advanced solutions to the marketplace.
UNITERS Research Centre offers a full-range of testing services.
Leather samples are evaluated through a combination of flex, rub, and light resistance test processes. After testing is complete, UNITERS technicians will provide a detailed report on the cause and solution."
I found them after reading an article by the British Leather Institute that leather does not need to be moisturized, if it could be, the oils from our perspiration would overload it. And abrasion was the enemy.
Thanks for confirming I have the right stuff, in a way I also confirmed you have the right stuff.
OMFG I'LL BET YOU ONE AMERICAN DOLLAR that that "kit" that you link to is the EXACT SAME as I bought from Jaguar.. The size of the box, the sponge, ALL of it.
Forget the Amazon reviews then and believe me. I've been using Griot's leather care spray for years and it works better than anything else I've ever used at any price. I have no affiliation with Griot's and all the leather in my 2009 XKR is still like new, including the dashboard. Your car, your money, your choice. Why spend more?
Last edited by Stuart S; May 19, 2019 at 01:33 AM.
I have no idea what is right,as I've had cars with nice leather, soft as silk, and cars with old leather the consistency of cardboard. When reviewing any product, remember the idea of Fallacy of the Single Cause (Wikipedia does a pretty good job of explaining), If your leather is soft after 20 years, or ruined after 6 years, how do you know the actual cause, unless you do an exact side-by-side comparison of two identical seats in identical situations, testing different products? You cannot know if your leather would have done better or worse, after treating or not treating, unless you compare your treatment of choice on two identical seats in identical situations.