Hey Guys,

It seems I need to replace my 6 year old battery. Is there a "stickie" for what one needs to "re-set" after installation?
I've read a number of different procedures, but, not all are clear.
Thanks for replies...

 

Dam it made it 6 years??? What model??

Just disconnect the (-), then the (+). There is a bracket (or 2) at the base of the battery - remove the nuts for them and remove the bracket. Battery comes right out after that. You may have to disconnect a drain tube, min didn't have one.

After re-install, its recommended you let the car idle until it reaches operating temp so it can re-learn correct idle values. Everything else will re-learn while you drive.

 

If you use a Memory Saver that attaches to your OBDII connector, you won't lose ANY settings - fuel trims, radio presets, seat memories, etc.


There are lots of choices on Amazon. Here's one. Check your local auto parts store.

 

You will have to reset your window travel before you operate the convertible top.
As follows;
Hold switch down until window is down and then another few seconds longer. You may or may not hear clicks. Release and hold down a few more seconds.
Hold switch up until window is up and then another few seconds longer. Release and hold up another few seconds.
Repeat for other window.
Swap directions dependent upon where windows are first.
Check for automatic operation and try again if any fail.

 

FYI.....As a precautionary note......For anyone planning on replacing their battery on their own.......Please be careful as you know this battery is quite cumbersome and super heavy. In the convertible it's incredibly awkward as well. The reason I'm bringing this up is because 3 weeks ago I replaced my battery in my 2001 Lexus myself....I am just now recovering with an extremely painful long bout with sciatica by hurting my back. Yes I am an old timer, but it can happen to anyone. Jaguar batteries are crazy heavy and somewhat awkward to install. Be careful guys!

 

Thanks, In addition to the front bracket, there is a side bracket with two nuts that secure it too. Since mine is a "vert", there is a horizontal bar running between the wheel wells, not doubt as an additional brace. Therefore, the side bracket has to be removed. Anyway, I got it removed and have purchased battery with a 6 year warranty from Battery warehouse (local guy).


It's a 900 CCA unit.

 

Yep it is! Am very conscious of back injuries. Thanks for the tip!

 

Thanks! It was an Interstate brand rated at 730 CCA MT48. It's been on a CTEK for the past 6 years, which, I believe is what increases its tenure. I had a battery in my 65 Mustang that was 1 years old and its had a couple different tenders with the current being a CTEK MX5.

 

I think you're mistaken if you use a Memory Saver through your OBDII port as described in my post #3, above. It's as if your old battery was never removed and replaced with a new battery, so nothing needs to be reset.

It's well worth the $20 cost.

 

Not mistaken. I don't bother with a memory saver as the reset procedures take less time than finagling with extra stuff. Course, if a tender is ALREADY hooked up, then I guess it's fine. I disconnect everything whenever I work with batteries as I find it easier and saver. I have melted tools and even a gold man-bracelet way back in the..... 70s? 80s?..... when a girlfriend gave the engraved wrist-belt to me a few hours before I helped her with her new Mustang.

 

Thanks to both for your input. TOO LATE!
Battery is out am getting up the energy to reinstall, Perhaps, I should have waited for more replies and would have seen this OBD tool.
I don't know that I had that many radio presets, I will miss my seat memory though.

 

Do you need a Memory Saver to R&R a battery? No, but it makes for a lot less work by not having to reset all your radio stations, seat memories, and windows. Do you know what your radio code is?

You can reset every lost memory (radio presets, memory seats. etc.) except for those that are learned by the computers your car based on how you drive - ECU and fuel trims, TCU and transmission shift points, etc. They'll just take some time for the computers to relearn them.

 

All my radio presets are exactly the same as when I first set them, they stay even with no battery for a month. Same with the seats. Radio has no code, as that stopped with the last XK8. The only thing I've had to ever relearn is the driving style, although that takes only a few minutes as I usually use the throttle as a OFF-ON switch, and the windows which take about twenty seconds to reset.

 

If you haven't already put it in and see this, save yourself and put a board in the trunk to act as a slide. I saw that suggestion in a thread and it was awesome, put a couple of 3ft 2x4's in, put the battery on them and slid it into position on that shelf.

 

Yeah, a good idea. I've been thinking of some way to push this slug into position without pulling a muscle some where. Thanks!

 

It's not a drain, it's a vent. And if you didn't reattach it, you should do so ASAP. Failure to do so can be catastrophic. Seriously.

That vent tube is an important safety feature that minimizes the possibility of your car blowing up. All batteries, regardless of type, produce hydrogen gas when they are being charged. Hydrogen gas is colorless and odorless, so you don't know if it's there. And it's highly explosive (remember the H-Bomb?).

That's not a problem with batteries that are installed under the hood (bonnet) in the engine compartment where the fan and road speed can safely dissipate any hydrogen gas. But the X150 battery compartment is another matter. Although it's not totally sealed, it's small enough to allow enough hydrogen gas to accumulate and result in a nasty explosion. To make matters worse, the battery compartment is located above the fuel tank! That's why the X150 batteries have vent tubes.

Your car's alternator is charging your battery whenever called for by the voltage regulator while the engine is running. As a result, your battery is sporadically producing small amounts of hydrogen gas. To prevent "sealed" batteries from building up excessive internal pressure and causing the case to bulge and fail, batteries are designed with an internal pressure release mechanism that routes that hydrogen gas to a vent tube that exits to the outside of your X150.

Even though the odds are against your battery blowing up, why risk it? Attach that vent tube properly and be safe.

Do you know what happened to the female driver who didn't have that vent tube attached when her XK blew up?

Disaster.

Didn't get it? Dis as ter. Sorry, couldn't resist. Seriously, be safe.

 

Thanks Stuart for explaining, in detail, the function of the battery Vent line. I'm very aware of its function and importance.
Actually, when purchasing my replacement this morning, I mentioned that feature to the seller to insure the battery I purchased had a "port" in the correct orientation.

 

My mistake ... I think I meant to say 'i don't remember' installing it, but it's there. Got me running down and checking my battery in the middle of the night LOL

Hydrogen gas is explosive, however a hydrogen bomb uses nuclear fusion at about 100,000,000 Kelvin to fuse hydrogen atoms. 2 different processes, but I get your point =]

 

Actually, for hydrogen gas to be explosive it must be mixed with oxygen. Without oxygen, hydrogen gas is flammable but doesn't burn fast enough to explode. That's why the battery compartment is a hazard - it's filled with air, which is 21% oxygen. If enough hydrogen gas mixes with the air (oxygen) in the battery compartment, you have a ticking time bomb that just takes a spark to ignite. Being so close to the gas tank, it'll be loud and spectacular! And it'll kill you.

 

Probably related to the unexplained acceleration. ;-)