XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

installing new battery

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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 01:27 PM
  #21  
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Default Battery install update

Ok, this morning I completed the install, at the same time I re-routed my internally fixed CTEK 4.3. Previously to check the battery status, I would vac to remove the trunk liner for a peek. While not cumbersome, I felt there was a better way. Therefore, I move the CTEK to behind the left Grille where the the battery "outpost" is located. My leads are connected directly to the battery terminals. Thanks you Jaguar for the unused 10MM posts that are perfect.
The battery being the "weighty" bear that it is, I slid into place using a ramp slide. No back injury from this part of the project. Everything fell into place.
Here's my "show" after my "tell"..........


Battery slid

CTEK connections

Tucked away for monitoring
 
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 02:39 PM
  #22  
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Hey Guys, a followup to the above install and more.....
I'm directing this to those that haven't researched installing a CTEK charger internally and may want to do so. My CTEK 4.3MUS has been wholly contained in the trunk area for a couple years. At some point, I thought it would be nice to wire the 120V power supply to an externally mounted male receptacle. Therefore, I purchased a marine grade male receptacle with a rubber cap and placed it in the center of the Valance below the trunk. Yeah, I had to drill a 1.5" hole in the Valance to facilitate the receptacle. It has worked great! One just has to remember to pull the wall power cable before leaving the garage. LOL.
In most all cases, when leaving the garage, we unplug the charger from the battery and leave the charger at home. In my case the charger goes with the car with its output cables still connected to the battery and the power supply terminated at the receptacle.

So the question becomes, is it safe to leave the charging (output) side of the CTEK connected to the battery when its power supply side is disconnected? Yes, as along as one knows there is a parasitic back drain of approximately 1AH/mo. I don't see this as a draw back, unless one, does not re-plug the receptacle for an extended period. How long does it take the battery to drain at this rate if left unplugged? BTW, I learned about the drain back rate from CTEK Tech support.





CTEK with 12V PWR

marine grade male receptacle
 
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Nicely done! It is official, your car has an external charge port like a Prius. You should feel green...now you know I am just having fun in jest.

I have a quick connect in my trunk and as you say the charger stays home. What you have is cool but for me I wouldn't need an only slightly quicker quick connect that is external. I want something really seamless and transparent, like an external charge port in the form of wireless Qi pad charges my Samsung phone. Pull the car up, have it push into the pad and have matching power on other side, voila charging. I think I will invent this, maybe have it wiggle into the contacts like my Neato Vacuum does on it's charging dock.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tampamark
Nicely done! It is official, your car has an external charge port like a Prius. You should feel green...now you know I am just having fun in jest.

I have a quick connect in my trunk and as you say the charger stays home. What you have is cool but for me I wouldn't need an only slightly quicker quick connect that is external. I want something really seamless and transparent, like an external charge port in the form of wireless Qi pad charges my Samsung phone. Pull the car up, have it push into the pad and have matching power on other side, voila charging. I think I will invent this, maybe have it wiggle into the contacts like my Neato Vacuum does on it's charging dock.

Ha, Ha! It's funny you mention the Prius wannabe...I've had neighbors in my garage and a few have made the comment, "I didn't know your Jag was an eCar?" I let it slide for awhile, the tell them the truth.That's Kool Idea! A big **** charging pad you drive onto. It charges all of your Apple devices at setting ....Yo Momma!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 04:10 PM
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You are on to something now!!!
 
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Old Jun 29, 2020 | 11:02 AM
  #26  
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Ok, follow up time.....
The 'ole girl re-learns easily. Took her Sunday Morning to my local Cars 'n Coffee (Annapolis Docks - MD). She did not forget her manners. I re-taught her how to articulate her windows and top. She's a good listener!




 
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 04:16 PM
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I replaced my battery with an Interstate AGM this morning. Removal of old battery was a snap (5-10 mins) and I’m 63 y/o. The wooden ramp advice is a real back and time saver. Thanks! I just used some 1x2s and 1x4s. All the nuts are 10mm. Also, I used a flat crowbar to get under the old battery and ride it over to the ramp
 
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Old Jul 2, 2020 | 01:59 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RedRider48
Since mine is a "vert", there is a horizontal bar running between the wheel wells, not doubt as an additional brace. (local guy).


It's a 900 CCA unit.
Coupes have the same horizontal brace.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 08:17 PM
  #29  
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Amen...I took mine to the dealer to avoid this! It was painful to admit I could not contort enough to get it out!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 10:44 PM
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Question for all:

Due to my ongoing convertible top issues, I've done a hard reset (disconnected both terminals, touched together for about 10 seconds, waited about 15 minutes, reconnected).
I've done this more than once over the years. Thing is.... when I do this, I lose the clock and that's it (oh and I get the yellow "service required" when I start up the car). Radio and seat presets remain. Is this common?

And for those vert owners wondering about window resets: it's an easy check. If you're in the car, doors closed, and you pull the door handle a little, you should hear the windows drop about 1/4 inch BEFORE the door unlatches.. If they do that, your windows have reset properly. I've been told it's an air pressure thing. (Also happens when you shut the door, but not as obviously noticeable)
 
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Old Jul 13, 2020 | 12:33 AM
  #31  
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Weird. I've done a Hard Reset at least a few times and the only thing I lose is the window presets. Seat controls, stereo settings, service life, clock, vehicle settings.... they all remain.
My old XK8 vert did the same thing. I always thought it was to ensure the window glass didn't catch on the roof trim when up.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 09:12 AM
  #32  
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I melted a gold ring to my finger while removing a battery from a jeep. Ouch.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 11:33 AM
  #33  
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Question

Originally Posted by RedRider48
So the question becomes, is it safe to leave the charging (output) side of the CTEK connected to the battery when its power supply side is disconnected? Yes, as along as one knows there is a parasitic back drain of approximately 1AH/mo.
Fair enough, but is it entirely safe to leave the CTEK maintainer in the trunk when powered on? The manual for my CTEK MXS 5.0 has the following cautions about locating the unit:



Items a) and d) seem most apt to your situation. Except for item b), no further explanation is given in support of these advisories (although c) and e) are kind of obvious), so it's unclear to me why this is recommended. And it's also unclear how big or small a "closed-in area" might be.

Food for thought.
 

Last edited by Bill Mack; Nov 12, 2020 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 04:47 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by gkubrak
Dam it made it 6 years??? What model??

Just disconnect the (-), then the (+). There is a bracket (or 2) at the base of the battery - remove the nuts for them and remove the bracket. Battery comes right out after that. You may have to disconnect a drain tube, min didn't have one.

After re-install, its recommended you let the car idle until it reaches operating temp so it can re-learn correct idle values. Everything else will re-learn while you drive.
2 things - for your benefit and mine:
1. EDIT - I made a wrong comment by mistake - IGNORE

2. The drain tube is a vent, must be connected - I actually completely forgot to connect mine for some unkown reason - lots of storage battery maintaining and the odd bit of charging, followed by run out with a lit cigarette - oh ffs!!! BOOM!!!

Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs or giving wrong information, just want to keep people safe - I haven't read all the replies yet
 

Last edited by wsn03; Nov 13, 2020 at 05:10 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 04:58 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by wsn03
2 things - for your benefit and mine:
1. I always disconnect (+) then (-), the reason being that a (+) connected on its own can cause a short when your spanner or whatever touches metal while you're undoing it. Similarly doing up should be (-) then (+) ... someone please tell me if there is a different process for our cars though.
Incorrect information.
Always disconnect the negative first and reconnect last. Think very carefully about what you have said to find your error.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 05:07 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jimbov8
Incorrect information.
Always disconnect the negative first and reconnect last. Think very carefully about what you have said to find your error.
Ooops - I was typing in a hurry, I meant the other way round! I think I'll just crawl back into bed. I am very hung over today (probably still pissed in fact). I got that spark effect once, gave me the jump of a lifetime albeit only on an old Beetle - been really conscious of it ever since
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:17 AM
  #37  
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Error post
 

Last edited by wsn03; Nov 13, 2020 at 07:05 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 12:11 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by wsn03
I think I'll just crawl back into bed. I am very hung over today (probably still pissed in fact).

I like your style!!!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 02:29 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by tampamark
I like your style!!!
Cheers

​​​​​​​
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:37 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Bill Mack
Fair enough, but is it entirely safe to leave the CTEK maintainer in the trunk when powered on? The manual for my CTEK MXS 5.0 has the following cautions about locating the unit:



Items a) and d) seem most apt to your situation. Except for item b), no further explanation is given in support of these advisories (although c) and e) are kind of obvious), so it's unclear to me why this is recommended. And it's also unclear how big or small a "closed-in area" might be.

Food for thought.
I would never have any sort of charger or maintainer stored inside the car while connected to the mains, too many things could go wrong especially in the likely scenario of this being left unattended. I reckon that is why the manufacturers also advise against this practice.
 
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