Reset procedure:

1. Connect the battery cables and tighten to 5 Nm. Ground cable must be connected last.
2. Install the battery cover and close the luggage compartment lid.
3. Start the engine and allow to idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
(n.b.: when you first switch on, the display will ask you to press the brake pedal & apply the electronic handbrake, to recalibrate)
4. Switch the engine off.
5. Restart the engine and allow to idle for approximately two minutes (this will allow the ECM to learn the idle values).
6. Apply and hold the brake pedal, select drive and allow the engine to idle for a further two minutes.
7. Drive the vehicle for approximately five miles/eight kilometers of varied driving to enable the ECM to complete its learning strategy.
8. Reset the audio unit and climate control assembly to original customer settings.
9. Reset the door window motors (wind down & hold until there's a click, wind up & hold for another click).
(n.b. store your current seat positions in M1, then adjust & store any other positions you used to have)

 

I don't think I read in these 7 pages that in the US the "Jaguar" branded XK replacement battery is made by Interstate. 60 month warranty prorated, 1st year full replacement. Didn't know this when I called the local Interstate dealer and was quoted $192 installed, a Carolina Jag dealer's price was $216 installed. The local Advance Auto guy said he did not have in stock, nor could he order, a battery that was appropriate for the XK. But I just checked the Advance Auto web site and the only battery it shows is their private brand Autocraft Gold @ $190 before their usual web discount (probably rebranded Interstate). I wasn't sure the gremlins were battery related so chose the dealer route as a first option. ("Jaguar" battery was 5 years old.) Seems to have corrected a plethora of symptoms from non-start to headlight alignment. So, the dealer option was not as exorbitant as expected, so far.

 

Hi
I'll have to check my dealer invoice, as I had them replace mine during a total system check last fall. I had just purchased my jag.

 

As an FYI I believe I saw someplace that there are only either 3 or 5 battery manufactures in the world . All of the batteries are renamed/branded buy they all come from these companies. I guess a web search would clarify this.

 

...And for those of who have installed a remote top module, step 10 is run the top down, then up, from the roof console, with the engine running. Thereafter, the remote top will be operational with the engine off.

 

I read the last 7 pages but am still not sure if the Interstate AGM MT5-49/H8 has a Vent. I pick mine up tomorrow and was curious before I start to replace it. If there is do I need an adapter. Thanks

 

Adding info to the thread here.

My 2012 XKR OEM Jaguar (Varta) battery completely died last week after sitting idle for 3+ weeks - car could jump start ok, but would not take/hold a charge.

Replaced with a "Energizer" (Johnson Controls) AGM battery I picked up at Sams Club for $169. Battery is a PITA to get out of the car, but all good now.

For some odd reason, I did not lose my radio presets when I swapped. Weird.

 

I wonder if driving around with a weak battery is bad for the electronics. If the battery is weak the current from the alternator would be higher all the time that the engines running, wouldn't it?

I let my xkr sit for about 5 weeks during the winter weather (in DC). The battery was entirely dead and wouldn't jump start. I took it out of the car, added electrolyte and charged it for about 15 hours. Put it back in, started up on the next try. Up till day before yesterday it ran fine, then wouldn't start. Topped off the battery with distilled water and used a portable jumpstart, runs fine, starts fine.
I'm looking for the best battery replacement and I'll get it in the next couple days. But I still have this nagging feeling about running on a weak battery and if it helps someone else make a better decision I should share this.
Since the first attempt to jumpstart the car (where I spent at least 20 minutes with the jumper cables connected between the cars) I've seen some things that caused me to think I'd overdone it.
1) Two of the sidemarker lights burned out.
2) One of the sidemarker bulb sockets showed charring around the bulb socket
3) One of the low beams went out
4) Both of the twilight bulbs went out
5) The area of the front headlamp housing where the twilight bulbs are mounted is cracked like it's been overheated, right where they poke through about the low and high beams.
6) The low-beam lenses cracked, one a few months ago and one in the last few weeks.

All this leads me to believe that there is a tendency to run more current through the electrical system when the battery is weak. Thoughts?

 

Yes, running around with a weak battery is bad for the electronics and yes, the alternator will work harder. I have fried an alternator, or more accurately, the voltage regulator affixed to the alternator from doing just that. Apparently on Bosch voltage regulators there is a carbon contact that wears faster during heavy charging. No clue if the Jaguar alternator has a similar regulator.

The jaguar alternator is set up to charge at over 15 volts for a brief period after engine start, then it drops to the more typical 14-ish if the battery needs it. It is supposed to be especially hard on the display screens to run the higher voltage through them.

 

+1 to the added stress with a week battery.

You also mentioned jump starting the car. This can cause voltage surges, especially if the donor car is running (which is not the recommended practice).

 

Just purchased a Duracell LSI49-AGM battery from BatteryPlus. I had them install it and while they removed my old battery, they did connect an 8 Amp/hr small battery to the terminals to make sure all electronic memories were kept. Before they started, I shut the doors and locked them. Only after that I opened the trunk to expose the battery. This way the electrical draw was minimized and their small battery had no problems holding up the voltage during the exchange.

Paid $189.99, installed. 4 years exchange warranty. My old battery was still good but, getting older and I figured it was not worth a potential future problem now that I am driving the car a lot more.

 

I changed out the battery in my '07 XK about a year ago and purchased a Bosch Premium Performance 49-850B from PEP Boys for $120 with no issues. It is a slightly different size Group 49 battery from the OEM battery however it has 850CCA and 1000 CA and can therefore handle the XK's needs. It also has a 96 month warranty (8 year) and 3 year replacement warranty which is useful given the XKs ability to deplete batteries.


I was able to use the aluminium hold down bracket to keep the Bosch unit firmly in place on the battery tray. The reason I went this route was that (a) it fits (b) they are in stock at most PEP Boys (c) if you buy online from the PEP Boys website with 'in store pickup' you can often get a code for 25-30% off the price if the order is over $100 and (d) it has a vent connector on the left side which is compatible with the vent pipe in the XK. I just checked and the list on the Bosch battery at PEP Boys is $151 and they have a 30% coupon for online orders as an example.

 

Your blog has been so helpful. I installed a new AGM battery in my 2010 Jaguar XKR this weekend. Electronics came back on. I'm having an issue though. The car still won't start!! Do I have to reprogram or reset something? Please help me! Seems no one can and just wants me to tow it into Jaguar. Thanks!

 

Add another to the list of gremlins solved by the battery replacement. A month ago a tire pressure warning on the right front tire came on. The car was new to me, a 2010 XK with only 23k miles. The previous owner had multiple cars and drove the XK only occasionally.

I took the car in to the Jag dealer and they diagnosed a possible bad battery in the tire pressure monitor. They also mentioned it might be the tire pressure module. Sure enough, after $350 to do the diagnosis the tire pressure module fault light came on and stayed on. Took it back to the dealer and they diagnosed a new module for the tire pressure. They wanted $500 to replace it. I said I would think about it.

I found a module online and found a Jag repair shop that would put it in and program it. I had the appointment set up for Tuesday. Today the grayed out climate control on the touch screen happened. I searched and found this thread. I went out and hooked up a charger and the battery was sucking all it could get from it. The volts were 12.6 with the engine off. But it was pulling like crazy from the charger.

I decided to put a new battery in. Replaced it tonight and set it all up according to instructions on this thread (thanks everyone). While driving around the tire pressure system fault turned to the clock. It did not come back.

Crossing my fingers, but I think it was a low battery issue all along.

 

IMHO Jaguars are hard on batteries, particularly those not driven daily and/or driven on short trips of less than ten miles.

Modern batteries seem to fail suddenly without any warning. In makes some sense to install a new battery by time interval. I replace at four years.

Most Jag owners have their batteries installed by some dealer. The car usually starts right up with the new battery. BUT, all conventional batteries slowly discharge from the time of manufacture; and your "new" battery may have been in inventory somewhere for many months. Some dealers will routinely charge all new batteries before installation, but most will not.

I do my own installations. It's easy. Before installation I put the new battery on a Battery Tender until fully charged. I keep the old battery hooked to my Battery Tender for back up. Jaguars seem to like fully charged batteries.

Whenever I travel for more than say a couple of days I connect a Battery Tender.

An overlooked maintenance item is the battery posts (male) and battery cable (female) connections. These connection surfaces build up "deposits" over time which prevent the battery from issuing full power. This is the case particularly with the positive posts, and is the underlying cause of many battery failures. Auto stores sell special battery cleaning wire brushes; and I suggest cleaning posts at least 2x/yr.

I don't have much experience with Odyssey-type batteries, so all my comments above apply to "conventional batteries."

 

Awesome posts. You helped me choose a Diehard. Fits like a glove. Thanks !!!

 

Hopefully, you have a CTEK to keep her healthy, too.
Happy Motoring...

 

Here's a copy of my POST from 10-10-2015 on the Jaguar Forum reference batteries:

In my research over the past few days about batteries and who makes what brands I found the following on the internet. Bottom line, despite what brand you buy most all batteries are made by Johnson Controls.

Here's the info I found based on a question I asked....

Could you tell me who makes Duralast batteries from Autozone.

Duralast batteries are a line of batteries sold by Autozone, which by the way is on every street corner it seems anymore. Autozone is one of the biggest auto parts store chains in the country, known for their great customer service and exceptional products. They can thank Johnson Controls for their dependable Duralast batteries. Duralast is Autozone’s private label made by Johnson Controls. Autozone offers a diverse selection of Duralast batteries, ranging from small to large. They even offer the Optima Gel Batteries in Auto and Marine, by the way which Johnson Controls also owns.

Below is a look at Autozone’s Duralast Battery Line, and the Optima Battery line made by Johnson Controls.

Product names, logos, brands, and other trademarks featured or referred to within are the property of their respective trademark holders.

Duralast Battery Duralast Battery 750 cold cranking Amps 935 cranking Amps 2 year free replacement 7 Year Warranty

Duralast Gold BatteryDuralast Gold Battery 850 cold cranking Amps 1000 cranking Amps 3 year free replacement 8 year Warranty

Optima Duralast BatteryOptima/12 Volts, 720 CCA (910 CA) Red Top Automotive Starting Battery with Post and Side Terminals. 36 Month Free Replacement

Yellow Optima Duralast Dual TerminalOptima/12 Volts, 750 CCA (870 CA) Yellow Top Automotive Dual Purpose Battery with Post and Side Terminals. 12 Month Free Replacement

Yellow Optima Duralast Battery
Optima/12 Volts, 450 CCA (575 CA) Yellow Top Automotive Dual Purpose Battery with Post Terminals. 12 Month Free Replacement

Optima Blue Marine BatteryOptima/12 Volts, 750 CCA (870 CA) Blue Top Marine Dual Purpose Battery with Post and 3/8 in. Stainless Steel Stud Terminals. 18 Month Free Replacement

Optima Red BatteryOptima/12 Volts, 800 CCA (1000 CA) Red Top Automotive Starting Battery with Post Terminals. 36 Month Free Replacement

Johnson Controls

Johnson Controls entered the battery business in 1978 upon acquiring Globe-Union Incorporated. Globe-Union was a Wisconsin-based manufacturer of Automotive batteries for both the replacement and OEM markets. Today, Johnson Controls is the largest producer of private label lead acid batteries in North America and is becoming a leader in Asia and South America. In 2000, Johnson Controls acquired Gylling Optima Batteries AB of Sweden. The Optima Gel Battery is well known for its quality and longevity. Johnson Controls completed the acquisition of German automotive battery maker HOPPECKE Automotive GmbH & Co. The company has an excellent customer base that includes many of Europe’s leading auto manufacturers. Johnson Controls also produce batteries for other applications such as marine, lawn and garden, commercial, motorcycle, wheelchair, and golf cart use. Most consumers have no idea of the size of the battery giant. When people think of Johnson Controls, they think of thermostats for HVAC purposes, not batteries. Johnson Controls is not only the largest North American battery manufacturer, but they literally control the North American battery market.
Johnson Controls manufactures batteries for the following private labels:

Interstate Battery (Interstate)
Interstate Battery (Interstate)

Die Hard Battery (Sears)
Die Hard Battery (Sears)

Duralast Battery (Autozone)
Duralast Battery (Autozone)

Kirkland Logo (Costco)
Kirkland Battery (Costco)

Everstart Battery (Walmart)
Everstart Battery (Walmart)

Prostart Battery (Pepboys)
Prostart Battery (Pepboys)

Hope this info helps other Jaguar vehicle owners.

 

So aggravated. My 2006 XK8 didn't start, just clicked once when I turned the key, but no power but the windows and lights were working. I had assumed it was the battery but was told it was the starter because the windows and lights worked. Had starter replaced at $400 something. Two weeks later again car was dead. Got the run around that they checked the battery but it was fine, still insisting it was the starter. I highly doubt it. I went somewhere else and it was the battery. It couldn't have been good two weeks ago and no good now with the same issue of the car not starting.

 

It sounds like "they" did a poor job at checking the battery. Any good local AutoZone, Advance Auto, or "Battery Warehouse chain can test a battery and will discuss the procedure. While at it, they can test the charging system as a whole too. It could be the Alternator is not charging at the proper rates.
I hear this many times over.......
Hope all is well......