On October 9, I had a new top installed on my 2009 XKR Portfolio Edition Convertible. After much research, I bought the top from OEM+ Auto Tops. Here's their website:
OEM+ Auto Tops

I had my new top installed by Kenny McCombs, The Convertible Top Man, because had great reviews and is mobile. He installed the top in my garage and explained everything he was doing while I watched. If you think you can DIY, think again. Although it's easy to remove the old top, installing the new one requires the right tools and adhesives and knowing the proper sequence of reassembly steps. Kenny didn't use an instruction manual. I highly recommend him. Here's Kenny's website:
Atlanta Convertible Top Mobile Installation
(Not my XK)



Kenny told me that I made the right decision to buy the OEM+ top because it has the best fit. We had to press down on the front header to get the latches to close into the windshield. He said that was normal and to leave the top up so the fabric can stretch out. After he left, I misted the top with water, which dried overnight in my garage.

Below are photos of the completed job.








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If you decide to consider using Kenny to install your top, tell him that I sent you.

I'm also going to apply RaggTopp to my new top, as it is endorsed by Haartz, the manufacturer of the Twillfast RPC fabric.


Raggtopp on Amazon

Stuart

 

What was the rough price point (shopping in TX) if you don't mind my asking?

 

@OfficialJaguar Welcome to the Forum, Michael. You'll find lots of knowledgeable and helpful members here. But we need you to help us save time by creating a signature that includes your location, as detailed in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-up%2A-241802/
​Thanks

I bought my new top from OEM+ Auto Tops. It cost $1,580 less 10% discount. See
https://oemplusautotops.com/?s=&post_type=product

Kenny charged $1,400 to install the X150 top in my garage. It took 4 hours. All the l local installers I called were at least $1,200 and I had to leave the car overnight. Ask your local Jaguar dealer who they use for top installations. OEM+ Auto Tops has a list of recommended installers. There might be one near you.

Stuart

 

Yes, sorry about that. I belive I've fixed that as of now.

Thank you for the helpful information.

Best,

 

Thanks for the informative post, Stuart. I've decided I can't stand the way my re-glued rear window looks anymore, so I'm going to go the same route you did. I notice on the OEM+ website the headliner is a separate item. Do you have to replace the headliner as well when replacing the top, or can you just reuse the original headliner?

 

Simon,
I used the original headliner because it was like new except for 2 spots where I used too much Rhino Glue and it dripped onto the headliner. When it dried it was noticeably darker. I doubt that I can remove it and don't want to make it worse. I'll post a photo later.
Stuart

 

I'll live with the Rhino Glue stains.

 

There looks to be a run on XK replacement tops!!!! My repaired top has separated from the glass for the 3rd time today and it looks that little bit worse each time i repair it, due to the shrinkage of the fabric there is hardly anything for me to re-attach anymore so i am going the same route and look for a new top.
Thankfully OEM+ states a reputable installer within 20 miles of home so i'll be off to talk with them in the coming weeks.
Thank you Stuart for your recommendation.

 

I am in the wrong business $ 1400 for half a days work , wow.

 

Think again. He's lucky to replace two tops per month from October through March.

Sure, it's not cheap, but it's perfect.

 

Your roof looks great!

I just wondered: when the roof did not close, did you get the "roof not latched" error?

Another question: Does it now close fully when pressing the close button?

I ask this because I have a "roof not latched" error, where the full operation stops when the roof is close to latching.
Same error occurs when the roof is fully open. I suspect a sensoring error, but I need to investigate further.

 

I'm sure he is doing other work when not installing Jaguar soft tops. No matter how you look at it that is a lot of dough for a couple hours work. A well experienced and educated lawyer doesn't charge that much per hour.

 

That's 2 tops per month of all cars, not just Jaguars.

"A well experienced and educated lawyer doesn't charge that much per hour.". That's exactly what Kenny told me was why he closed his law practice!

Seriously, $350 per hour is outrageously expensive, which is why I called several auto trim shops near me in metro Atlanta. As I explained in my Post #3, above, "All the l local installers I called were at least $1,200 and I had to leave the car overnight." That's why I decided to use Kenny.

Have you calculated the hourly labor rate at your JLR dealer for a 5.0L oil and filter change? It's a 20 minute DIY job - ask me how I know. I just called my dealer and was quoted $381.88! That is NOT a typo! You can figure out the hourly labor rate.

 

I did not get any error messages. The top motor kept running while Kenny pushed down on the header to help it close. As I previously explained, he said that was common with a new top as the fabric is tight and will stretch a bit after a while.

I previously installed Steve's (WhiteXKR) remote top control and don't have to push and hold the manual switch to raise or lower the top. It's one touch using my Smartkey. I've opened and closed the new top a couple of times and it still needs a little push to help it fully close. The manual button is now one touch, both up and down.

 

[/QUOTE]I suspect the wires in the roof going to the sensors at the front of the roof are starting to fracture, see my post;


[QUOTE=gmuirnz;2713328]I have been issues with my top for what seems like forever, didn't do a naked dance but felt like it!!!

Based on these posts I put the top partly up and looked on the left hand side ( passengers side for me) for the cable form. The braided cable form is velcro attached to a length of what looks like selt belt webbing between the inner and outer fabric of the converible top.
Opened the braided cable form about 300mm to 400mm from front edge with my wife’s "quick unpick" tool, and found and both the "red/brown" and "brown/red" wires were completely broken, and the "Green/white" and "White/Blue" insulation cracked.

Spliced in new wires, adding about 12mm to wire length., as another post suggested they broke because they were too short?

 

Had an interesting conversation with OEM+ today...

If you look at the OEM+ website and select the option for our cars it mentions something about "PVC retainers"

I asked the question as to what these were and if it had anything to do with the way the rear screen was retained and was told no, it had something to do with the manufature of the material, i then asked how the rear screen was retained and was told "I'm not going to tell you that, it's our secret"!!, i was a little surprised at this and another comment followed that these tops would probably need to be replaced every 5 years..

Perhaps i am expecting too much, but for a manufacturer to state they believe it would need to be replaced again in 5 years is a little worrying to me.

 

When I got my top replaced I spoke to 4 of the premier shops in the northeast…3 would only install GAHH tops…https://gahh.com/convertible-tops/ca...onvertible-top

 

The cost involved with replacing the top is high, in my neck of the woods it was more than the materials which they wanted to purchase, so a markup was included , too.
I understand but don't have to agree all the time if i can do.
There are warranties, mine is I get to do it again.
That is why I went down the DIY method.
My choice was a GAHH top made with Hartz Twill Fast RPC.
I had good support from GAHH om previous repairs to my 88MY & 95MY.
While their choice of rear window is not OEM there bonding technology, "UltraMaxx" has a warranty.
Replacing the top and headliner is not rocket science, but does require patience, tools, another person to help ( luckily i have a son and son in law that will help), a plan and more time than one day.

Also, my experience my 05MY was replaced when it got hit by a severe hailstorm at 9 years old and was still in reasonably decent shape.
My 13MY is at 12 years plus since the build date was in 2012 may be a little more,
And it is over due.
This sort of indicates to me maybe a 10 year life.

FWIW when I finish my replacement I will have a plan and my intentions is to share with the list.

Stuart's cost in my opinion is not un-reasonable based on what I was able to determine for my area. On top of that one day service at your home is double plus. He did his homework.

 

Probably more dependent on the environment the top is exposed to, temperature, humidity, and sunshine, rather than age.
My 2007, built in 2006, so now just over 18 years old, still holding tight on the glass. Yes, there are a couple of wear spots at the C-pillar fold points, but not dramatic. First 8 years were spent in the Pacific Northwest, so relatively cool, shady and moist. The last 10 years in the Midwest (Chicagoland), no brutal heat, not too dry, and garaged all winter.
Certainly keeping an eye on this topic, as I have no clue as to how long my top will last.

 

Dear gmuirnz,

I traced back the original thread . Indeed very interesting to investigate! I will check this soon and let you know;