Some members have advocated using Pennzoil Utra Platinum in the 5L to avoid problems with the tensioner. Pennzoil is known for its cleaning performance. Jaguar has changed the recommended oil weight to 0W-20 and still recommends engine oil meets Ford WSS-M2C925-A. Pennzoil 5W-20 meets Ford WSS-M2C925-A. Pennzoil 0W-20 meets WSS-M2C947-A, but does not mention anything about WSS-M2C925-A. However, on the back of a 0W-20 container it says 0W-20 provides the same protection as their 5W-20 oil. Which weight Pennzoil oil is better for the 5L, Pennzoil 5W-20 or 0W20? IMO, I think either one would work fine. To date I have only used Jaguar branded Castrol Professional 0W-20.

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/...73c21c2e06.pdf

 

This is a never ending debate but the short answer is either will work fine but the 0W-20 will be slightly better in a really cold climate where the ambient temp regularly drops below freezing.
The longer answer:
JLR changed the recommended spec for the AJ133 from 5W-20 to 0W-20 some time around 2012, and as I have opined elsewhere on this forum my initial research suggested it was wholly and solely to eke out another 1 or 2 mpg on the CAFE (and EU) lab tests, so as to reduce "gas guzzler" and "CO2 emissions" taxes. The lower viscosity at cold start up and until the engine reaches full operating temp improves fuel economy by a tiny amount, at least on the lab tests.
Then a bit later there were some opinions expressed that it was mainly to reduce the worn timing chain/tensioner/guide problems this engine is known for, and coincidentally (or not!) the change was around the same time that the timing chains were beefed up from 6.3 mm wide to 8.0 mm wide and the tensioner impact point was hardened to reduce wear (this wear was the root cause of the timing chain failures). The theory is that the 0W-20 gets to the chains and tensioners quicker than the 5W-20 on very cold start up. The chains and tensioners are lubed by "squirters", fairly thin tubes that spray oil on them, so in theory a lower viscosity when cold oil will spray earlier/more/better.
I don't quite buy that second theory as being the primary reason for the change and I still reckon it was mainly to eke out another 1 or 2 mpg.
I live in a fairly hot climate where the ambient temp is often 40 C plus and I have never in my nearly 65 years seen a temp below freezing (0 C or 32 F).
For that reason and others I have never used 0W-20 in either my XFR or F-Type, instead I have always used 5W-20, and I have had zero engine problems with either car.
But for someone in sunny Canada it's arguable that the better choice is 0W-20.

 

If you use Pennzoil, dont keep it in the engine for more than 6 months.
I dont know how good it is with soot loading. The Jaguar oil was formulated to safely last 12months.
Its a catch-22 between 0weight and 5weight oil. 0w will flow faster as Ozzy mentioned- but its also more volatile- so you will get more carbon build up on valves.
They dont make 0w oil, they take 20w oil and add viscosity modifiers, to make it 0w in cold weather. The viscosity modifiers are the things that stay behind and vaporize.
But as Ozzy mentioned if you are starting in Canadian cold weather, 0w will overall be better regardless of manufacturers recommendation. In summer I would use 5w. Jag engine has no trouble with 5w oil in regular temps.

 

Why would soot be a problem? Pennzoil has excellent cleaning characteristics and is an extended life oil. I'm considering using it between oil changes for its cleaning properties.

 

https://www.blauparts.com/shop-parts...sid=Dehxo5p1Zg

Jaguar XKR-S Motor Oil Change Kit - 2012-14 - 5.0L - 5w20

8 liters 5W-20 Jaguar XFR-S motor oil, oil filter, and hardware for 5.0L V8 applications. Meets STJLR.03.5004 Jaguar oil standards.
$105.79
Rating:
100% of 100

 

Here we go again!

 

Look on the Range Rover sights and see how many have suffered timing chain failures and require a 7-10k rebuild. $100 for oil is cheap insurance

 

Soot is ash that is building up in the oil in DI engine. This ash makes the oil heavier and breaks it down- over time.
It requires a special formulation to deal with it- that's why Pennzoil makes the Rotella for that application.
I dont know if Pennzoil Ultra has been tested for extended drain on this engine.
I dont know if castrol formulates for soot, but it has been tested for 12month drain.

I would not leave any oil in this engine for a year. Thats waiting a year to find out if you have water leaks, oil burning and low oil level.
Thats like waiting till the end of the day to check if it was fine belgium chocolate or poo you steeped in early in the day.
I know there are folks who get emotional about this; they say why change the diaper when it holds twice as much.

Here's a top tip, I think you have a young enough car to qualify for their free 150,000 mile warranty- transferable to next owner! its has to be good, these are some very fat cats that throw money around, look they are giving folks $22 back on a $16 purchase and its $40 oil to begin with. It blows the mind.

 

 

[QUOTE=

Here's a top tip, I think you have a young enough car to qualify for their free 150,000 mile warranty- transferable to next owner! its has to be good, these are some very fat cats that throw money around, look they are giving folks $22 back on a $16 purchase and its $40 oil to begin with. It blows the mind.[/QUOTE]

What warranty is this? Pennzoil offers an engine warranty? How would they monitor this?

 

Castrol or shell for me but i am aware you guys can find that hard to get across the pond

 

Pennzoil website recommends 5W-30. Wow, so what do we use 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30?

 

Yes a great engine warranty. 15 years or 500,000 miles against failure related to lubrication.
I knew about it for a long time, but wish I had jumped on it while I could. There is no downside.

(heck you could buy 2 bottles a year and not use it, just sell it, and get the warranty- dont tell them I gave you the idea)

Here is what it covers
1. Pistons & Piston Rings
2. Oil Pump & Timing Chains
3. Crankshaft and Bearings
4. Rocker Arms and Pivots
5. Rods
6. Rod Bearings
7. Push Rods
8. Cam Shaft and Bearings
9. Valve Stems and Guides
10. Wrist Pins and Bushings
11. Turbo Bearings
12. Valve Lifter
13. Cylinder Lining or Bore
14. Distributor Drive Gear
15. Timing Gears or Sprockets

 

Seen their coolant for sale here but never their oil

 

Its a British Company George, headquartered in London.

 

Where does it say "tensioners"? Sure, it says "timing chains", but since it doesn't say "and related components" or something like that to specifically include the tensioners, they can deny coverage if the damage is caused by tensioner failure.

Maybe not such a great warranty after all.

 

Agreed, I don't think the warranty covers timing chain tensioner failure and I also think that is fair enough.
Q&C says ".....15 years or 500,000 miles against failure related to lubrication" (my bold).
Dunno if those are Pennzoil's exact words, but if they are or they are close enough then the common reason for tensioner failure (it bashes a dent in the chain guide and reaches the end of it's adjustment and eventually the timing chain gets slack enough to skip one or more camshaft sprocket teeth) has nothing to do with lubrication, instead it's just poor design and/or materials.

 

The tensioner is not the problem. Think of it this way if you installed a chain with perfect tension (I know its an impossibility) and there was no further wear and thus elongation- you could omit the tensioner altogether.
I have 300k on a pushrod engine, and the wear on the chain is astronomical. I have used nothing but the best available synth oil since day one.
If you drive the aj133 200k miles, or ant DI car, you will need new chains, (even if you had 5 tensioners in-between) its guaranteed. Would they grant that claim for tc? who knows, Its their money and their mercy, but more than suggestion to go fly a kite Jaguar or any extended warranty company will offer at that mileage.

Interestingly I haven found any claims denied, and its a max of $5k- so for the one in a million that actually goes through with a claim, the cost to Shell is less than offering those rebates, which also work on the principal that most never bother, yet attracted by it.
http://media.napaonline.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/2180739pdf?$PDF$

 

Never knew that Q&C only place i have seen it is on amazon but it is more expensive than castrol or shell so will stick with them

 

Pennzoil is made by Shell