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The joy of dealers never ends. Mine is black/black trim/charcoal interior with red piping and piano black inserts.
Some coolant pipes were replaced in 2018, I don't recall needing to do the water pump.
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Hey Buddah,
Sounds identical to mine except for the Red Stitichg as that is only an XKR detail… Everything else perfect!!!
I can always replace water pump, not that difficult… The AJ133 engine is a relatively easy engine to work on and mind you I’ve only had my XK for 15 months…
I just purchased a 2009 Jaguar XKR Portfolio from Carolina Luxury Imports in North Carolina, in early November. No North Carolina taxes were charged to me and the dealer sent me all the paperwork perfectly pre-filled out to register/title my car in Texas. Texas sales tax was charged when I went to register in Texas. If the dealer in NC charges you sales tax for your state, then they have to send it to your state, but you may never know if they overcharged you and pocketed the difference. Better option is to tell them not to add the tax and take care of it yourself.
Legally they CAN'T charge tax for another state, they don't have a way to pay it. Anything they would collect they would keep. Then when you register in your own state, you'd have to pay it again there.
interesting thread, hope you get the XKR that you want.
regarding paint correction, my SO has a dark green paint, that has a few clear coat scratches. I have tried ScratchX and Meguires paint cutter, but they are still there. Any ideas?
There are a few companies online who can provide you with factory base color and clear coats I will look up the company where I was able to purchase mine..
id it's just the TopCoat that is scratched and no damage to the base then all you need to do I is fill in the scratches with Factory Spec top coat doing one layer at a time, drying then blending with DA polisher using 15 pounds of down force on a medium setting depending on what DA you use... I would use a Wool pad as it has better cut... Build up scratch until level with surface top coat.. After roughly 3/4 applications it should be perfect.. What kind of Compund are you using or have?...
If it were me buying this car, I would offer them what I was willing to pay for it and tell them to take it or leave it. I have done that several times over the course of many years and it works more often than not if I am offering a reasonable price. If you are trading something in; after you reach an agreement of the purchase price, then you negotiate the trade-in value.
interesting thread, hope you get the XKR that you want.
regarding paint correction, my SO has a dark green paint, that has a few clear coat scratches. I have tried ScratchX and Meguires paint cutter, but they are still there. Any ideas?
oh BTW I failed to mention between coat applications you will need to knock down and blend edges using 1200 wet sand and a block to keep level... dry service before blending with DA..
There are a few companies online who can provide you with factory base color and clear coats I will look up the company where I was able to purchase mine..
id it's just the TopCoat that is scratched and no damage to the base then all you need to do I is fill in the scratches with Factory Spec top coat doing one layer at a time, drying then blending with DA polisher using 15 pounds of down force on a medium setting depending on what DA you use... I would use a Wool pad as it has better cut... Build up scratch until level with surface top coat.. After roughly 3/4 applications it should be perfect.. What kind of Compund are you using or have?...
Greetings Cat Crew,
Im upgrading after a year of loving my XK but want a little more power.. After hashing out with the sales manager VP?... Its like he's so insistent that I have to purchase the cosmetic detailing package for 4,898.00.. I do all my own paint correction, wet sanding, clay bar, paint sealant, ceramic coating and any other detail work.. I have never in my life heard of a detailing package costing 5,000!!!.. Lrior to that there was a 4,995.00 service contract- I'm in Wisconsin the dealer is in North Carolina... I said when would I ever utilize your services?... So that was taken off... I'm haggling about the cosmetic package now.. It looks like they are trying to cover the trade in or making a 19,000 commission?... Any suggestions or recommendations?
I bought my X358 in NC and didn't pay those fees. Pure profit. Doc fees are always profit. Sometimes worth it if you really want the car, but in the $199 range. Not what they're quoting. I bought my XKR in Indiana and they collected SC sales tax. Wouldn't deal otherwise. I confirmed that they indeed collected the SC tax at the SCDMV. Anything other than that is padding the profit.
This is like an all in one.. You will never get a top coat scratch out using this product. I remember correctly the scratch was enough to catch your nail?.. You're going to want to fill that scratch using Clear Coat and a tiny applicator which is provided in the kits..
Do you own a DA polisher?... I purchased the SPTA on Amazon it comes with everything to get started in the Paint correction world.. I consider myself above intermediate as I've been doing for a year now and a ton of studying and using different products.. You don't need to spend 3-500 on a RUPES pro DA polisher, I have a couple and find that the SPTA is perfect for any task.. And the pads are color coordinated for uses..
Chemical Guys has some great Compounds I would suggest a Heavy, Med. and then a Polish to finalize..
I did some chips in my hood and you would never know they were there.. Watch DIY videos on YouTube.. There's some excellent videos on your exact situation...
You're welcome John!!.. I find paint correction to be enjoyable, and you can actually turn it into a money making side kick.. Body shops charge ridiculous prices for 15 minute jobs making it to be a science project.. Oh we're going to have to sand down the panel, match the base if we can find it!!!.. Lol, and then we'll have to spray the panel.. Now mind you it's 12 hours curing time between each spray and then we'll have to clear coat.. So you're looking at roughly 5,000... Yup
John I'm here for any questions.. You might even be able to knock that scratch down using 1200 wet sand then 1500 & 3000 all wet.. by hand.. feeling as you go along.. I've attached the kit from Chemical guys.. Use a Wool pad to blend start with 3/4 setting moving the DA up & down 15 pounds of pressure.. Use a digital scale and setting the DA on the scale get the weight then while holding it apply 15 pounds getting used to that pressure amount to be applied... Start with your Med., Fine Then polish...wipe with clean micro fiber towel after each grade of compound.. Use Isopropyl alcohol mixed with 50% distilled water to clean your panel before work and during each grade of compound and polish.. You'll never look at a scratch the same again!!!
Friends will be in awe of your superior skills!!!... WTF how did you do that????... I'm at genius status with the GF... hehehehe Thanks YouTube!!!
This is like an all in one.. You will never get a top coat scratch out using this product. I remember correctly the scratch was enough to catch your nail?.. You're going to want to fill that scratch using Clear Coat and a tiny applicator which is provided in the kits..
Do you own a DA polisher?... I purchased the SPTA on Amazon it comes with everything to get started in the Paint correction world.. I consider myself above intermediate as I've been doing for a year now and a ton of studying and using different products.. You don't need to spend 3-500 on a RUPES pro DA polisher, I have a couple and find that the SPTA is perfect for any task.. And the pads are color coordinated for uses..
Chemical Guys has some great Compounds I would suggest a Heavy, Med. and then a Polish to finalize..
I did some chips in my hood and you would never know they were there.. Watch DIY videos on YouTube.. There's some excellent videos on your exact situation...
