It was the first frost of the season where I am and I was noticing that my rear defroster is not working (I had long suspected it wasn't). In a 15 minute drive, the defroster failed to make any difference to a thin layer of frost on the window.

The light on the console comes on when I push the button, and I can hear the relay click, and I checked to see if any wiring harnesses were disconnected by the aux gas tank pull in the trunk but I did not see anything. What else should I check?

 

F23 (green fuse, 30A) between the rear seats. If this is blown, the switch light and the relay click will still work, but the heater will not.

 

Thanks, good tip! I will check it out.

 

Turns out it wasn't the fuse, but the metal tab connecting to the window has come loose. Really sort of disappointing. But at least I know what the problem is! Any ideas on how to fix this? I've tried those kits in the past on other cars but it doesn't seem to work.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5.../upload_-1.jpg

 

What do you think about using "solder paste" and a cheap soldering iron to reattach? Any special prep techniques I need to do before attempting this?

 

Looks like it could require some disassembly of the top to get some solder in there. The headliner seems to have some velcro holding it securely to the rear window, but it is also attached at the bottom end of the top with some torx screws.

I might have my indie shop do it since by the time I buy the solder and the soldering iron, I might as well have just paid someone to do it!

 

I would lean toward the conductive adhesive. Many metals are not solderable, and it was not soldered originally, chances are it is not solderable. Also the soldering heat will likely delaminate the grid from the window, or worse, the high heat in one spot on the safety glass could cause spontaneous breakage of the window.

If the Permatex kit is not good based on your experience, try a high silver content conductive epoxy like

 

Thanks for the advice! I will give this product a shot-definitely seems like better stuff than those Permatex kits!

Should I gentle scuff up the tab and the grid contact on the window before I apply this?

 

Very light scuffing is good, but do not use anything courser that 400 grit sandpaper.

 

I have ordered the silver epoxy! Hopefully the repair will go well. I've been reading that the epoxy needs heat to really cure, so I guess I will be using my wife's hair dryer!

 

Also, the rear trunk handle (the glow in the dark one) split in half in my trunk. Is there a particular type of glue that will work well to put it back together?

 

Same thing happened to me several years ago. I didn't realize that it was detached from the holder and could be caught while closing the trunk lid and broken. To fix mine, I used clear 2-part epoxy and masking tape to hold it together until it cured, then removed the tape. So far, so good.

But I know it isn't strong because the bond area is so thin. Just enough to keep it together in the holder, but will definitely break again if pulled on. I thought about adding reinforcement, but didn't want to change the appearance.

I doubt that anyone will ever get locked in the trunk and need to pull that handle to escape. How could anyone possibly fit, even a child? A big "thanks" to our Federal government for mandating something in the name of safety that's as useful as lipstick on a pig.

 

I didn't even know there was a holder! I will have to look more closely!

I guess my XKR is getting to the age where everything plastic is starting to break. Both of my rear tail lights have cracked plastic (one chipped when I was trying to gently remove it to replace a bulb, the other came that way when I bought it used!). The other day one of my dash vents near the driver's mirror flew up in the air and into my lap. Thank goodness it didn't fly out (I had the top down). The trunk pull inside the carpet has broken pieces and now won't stay secured! What gives?

 

Ok, I finally fixed the defroster. I used the 2 part silver epoxy that WhiteXKR suggested. It was sort of a pain to do because of the awkward positioning of the rear window of the top, and to make matters worse, after about 5 minutes, the convertible top started closing on its own, with gravity I presume! So I had to prop up the top with some wood and then after I was done I had to do the manual top reset procedure specified in the owners handbook. But the good news is I now have a working rear defroster!