So I did some searches and didn’t have any come up.
I’m sure there are a few somewhere though.
So I purchased car 2 days ago it started right up no issues and actually drove it home over 200 miles

Went to start it this morning and nothing when I pushed the start button. However everything else lit up
headlights work brake lights etc. I have it on a charge now via the jumper post.

Is there any tricks or special concerns to change this battery out?

I also have a message up that says brake light out. When I step on the brake pedal the passenger side is ‘blinking’. Any idea or help greatly appreciated.

 

It's a U.S. car so there's no radio code needed. I've disconnected my battery and reconnected several times and never needed to reset anything like seat position or windows. Can't speak to any Vert settings.

For XK models 2010 and beyond Jaguar strongly recommends you replace the battery with the same type as was installed on build. Some vehicles were AGM with relevant alternator and some were standard lead acid with the correct alternator. There is no such recommendation for your model year, so go with whatever you want.

Careful on the R&R as they weigh 50 lb's (not kidding). Keep the vent fitting from your old battery as the new one might not have it. Once replaced, use of a battery maintainer is recommended.

Regarding the Brake light, It's telling you the bulb that's out is the right side.

Do you have an owners manual?

This is a handy link:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-links-20091/

 

Sean,
I was surprised I do have an owners manual.

I had the battery on charge for about an hour. You have to put a fair amount of pressure on that pedal to move it I suppose in this cold weather here in Pa. I had to have the car tell me this...push on the brake pedal so I did harder and it started...da.
So back to changing the battery. After some reviews on you tube I know where it is now.

But how do you remove the luggage cover slide to get that out of the way? To get to the rear panel that has to come out. I don’t think the panel will come out without removing the luggage rollback cover.

And the passenger brake light is blinking. Is that a fairly easy get to? I pulled the vent and see a soft rubber oblong cover is socket under that?

 

The luggage cover lifts straight up.


Remember when re-installing, it must be in the correct position for the top to work. It has 2 positions.

 

See page 74 of your manual on how to replace the brake lamp. You have to remove the assembly and there are two, and on some vehicles, three securing nuts. Be very careful pulling and pushing at the same time. The front corner of the assembly can crack very easily. You won't to push or pull evenly.

Once out it's very easy to replace the bulb. Last one I did took me 10 minutes once I understood where the securing nuts were.

 

THank you Sean. I did finally get to battery. I don’t know how old it is though. Trying to find out from previous owner before I. Just got a text 3 yrs old. So I think a good charge I’m good to go for another year or so. I’ll put a maintainer on it when I leave for Fla next week. The car was sitting for over 6 weeks in those frigid -0 chill factors we had here.

I just want to Thank You to all the great people on this forum. I got this car for a project to keep the ‘Oleguy busy when I can’t fish and a nice convertible that is simply Bad to the Bone when you want to go!

 

Yep prolly just didn't press on the brake peddle hard enough given the cold weather vs. weak battery. Normally you won't have to do that. What you experienced isn't common but does happen on occasion. Oddly enough not to me yet here in Minnesota and I just fired up my car for the first time in a few months.

Tender is a good idea when away for a week or IMO even just a couple of days. You might want to take it in to the local auto parts store and see if they'll load test it in place (cables disconnected).

Locking the car will shut down the peripherals faster than leaving it unlocked. Unlocked, they stay on for 30 minutes if memory serves.

 

Your 2008, with the incandescent bulbs, will have 2 nuts and peg. The LED units on 2010 and later, have 3 nuts.
That peg, which is near the pointy end of the lamp unit, friction fits into a plastic retainer. I used a pliers to squeeze on the tip of the retainer to ease the peg out, kind of like squeezing the end of a tube of toothpaste. I think I've read that others have pushed the whole retainer, with the peg, through the hole in the body, so maybe that works too.
As Sean said, be careful to not break the tip on the pointy end. The whole lamp unit must be pulled/pushed straight out from the body.

Replaced my battery a couple months ago, but I took it to Pep Boys, and let them break their backs for the free install. Wanted to go AGM this time, so went with the Bosch Platinum Series AGM (group size H8/L5/49).

Only needed to run the window reset sequence after changing the battery.

Sometimes the luggage separator can be a pain to get back into the correct position, and the car will let you know its wrong when you try to open the top.

 

Ok so the battery is fully charged it’s 3 yrs old so I should be able to get another year out of it I think. No starting issues... now that I know to push a bit harder on pedal.

Thanks again guys for the support. The bulb changeout was simple enough especially since Sean steered me to the book. Now I had a picture. Yes you do have to be gentle yet firm to pop the lens straight out but after the initial ‘fear’ pop all was good. Dashboard is clear now with just my clock showing.

Thursday Pa state inspection. Hopefully nothing will be needed. The wheels were curb abused pretty bad. The shop suggest an alignment check when I set appointment up. Is there anything special on these cats I should mention for spec tolerance? He’s does the initial setups on kit build Cobras and my sons handles really well so I trust his mechanical abilities and knowledge. But is also one to listen to you to if he thinks it’s useful.

 

I don't think you'll have any trouble with alignement other than remembering you may want a 4 wheel alignment rather than just the front. I've had it done at my local tire shop with no troubles.

On starting. If you push the start button first then put your foot on the brake pedal it usually starts much faster.

 

'Oleguy,

Beware of the lugnuts. Read this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-bolts-145997/

Stuart

 

Regarding your battery, if it registers 12.5+ volts at rest, it is good to go. If not, it is time to replace it.

 

 

 

Go to the junkyard and replace the lugs with Toyota lugs or buy a set off eBay and get a corresponding size lug wrench. The OEM's are garbage and not worth the absolute pain you'll encounter if the caps strip.

 

+1 on the Toyota lugs. Try to find the larger wrench as well.

Sounds like you are off and running with the new car. I did eventually go around the car and replaced all of the bulbs. If the headlamps are blue, replace them with new DS1's.

Per the alignment, there is a different spec for the \\R versus the regular XK. A good shop shouldn't have any problems. Same basic suspension layout as many other Jags and Fords.

As others have said, press button, then brake in one fluid motion and it should fire right up.

 

Car passed no issues. Alignment was out a tad...toe and total thrust. The indy shop told me there is a guy within a mile who works on Jags. UK Automotive in Felton Pa. I called him about changing the tranny filter/fluid cost. The insp station had to call him on how to turn the rear fog light off. He was a Jaguar dealer mechanic for over 25 yrs now has own shop. He asked why I wanted it changed with only 72k on it as it has synthetics in it. I replied good maintenance practices. He acknowledged. Then I asked about a SC pulley change and X-pipe. Why is it not fast enough? Yes, but it’s a guy thing. He laughed he said your in Pa even when he was racing them he was never able to get above 150mph unless they were at Sebring, the straights weren’t ever long enough.

 

 

Not sure about the DS1’s, but I recently replaced the halogen fog lamps on my Lexus, which were too yellow and didn’t match the LED headlamps, with LEDs. Bought two sets, the 7000 kelvins were too blue, while the 6000 kelvins were a nice white and matched the headlamp color.

 

Sorry, mine are Osram D1S's, 35 watt, not DS1's. I just replaced them with the standard color. They are slightly blue in contrast to the fog lamps but project well. When I got mine the fog lamps projected light further than the headlights. They turn blue when they die. I just did the shopping thing on Google and eventually picked mine up off of Newegg of all places. They were cheapest and have worked fine. I did have one bulb show up DOA but they replaced it hassle free.