Hello everyone. I received my SDD setup installed and connected successfully. I christened it by recalibrating my passenger's seat successfully, so my wife has one less thing about which to complain.

I start looking at adding keys and it looks like you must have ALL keys you intend to use sitting near the gear shifter when you run that program. If a key is not sitting there, it will no longer be usable. Is that accurate?

Also, if I use SDD 167 to add a key, will the key work in the dock as well or is that a separate action?

The system is not very intuitive...

Thanks
Dan

 

I don't think there are instructions in the IDS/SDD manual itself. The instructions are within SDD."Anti-Theft - Passive - Key Programming Using Diagnostic Equipment

General Procedures

1. The complexity of the electronics involved with the anti-theft, of which the key programming is a part, and the multiplexed communication network which are connected to it preclude the use of workshop general electrical test equipment. Therefore, reference should be made to the Jaguar Approved Diagnostic System for detailed instructions on key programming . The Jaguar approved diagnostic system systematically tests and analyses all functions and the various systems affected by it.

All new keys must be programmed using IDS. When using IDS to programme new key(s), the lost or obsolete key(s) will cease to function."

I should note, I haven't done this myself but I see it in the recommendations within SDD a lot. The reference above if from your model year workshop manual which was printed before SDD replaced IDS

 

To elaborate a tiny bit on Sean's post, if a key isn't REprogrammed along with all others you wish to use, that one will never work again anywhere. If the omitted key is a brand spanking new virgin, or a divorced used one (never happens in real life usually), it can be programmed later, but only by doing all the other keys at the same time again.

 

yes have them all available

2007 is a goofy year make sure you have the right key for your RFA

 

Hmmm, could this explain why the OE key no longer works to start the engine unless it is docked? I had an auto locksmith program two new fobs. I did give him my OE fob to get started, but perhaps he zombied OE key in the process? I think it does still open the doors and works in the dock, but won't start the car with the push button.

 

I don't think so, that's usually the battery inside. Course still maybe?

 

I noticed it no longer worked for starting the car after I refreshed the battery, but I tested the battery and it is very strong. It was a new battery when I put it into the OE fob.

The blanks that were programmed by the auto locksmith work to start the car but not in the dock.

If I get comfortable with the SDD process, I will probably just put both new fobs and the OE fob through the reprogram process, but they need to work in the dock. If I do part of the job, all of the keys will not work in the dock, and that is not a good thing.

 

Have you had your vehicle scanned for DTC's as suggested in previous responses to your multiple key posts? This would enable advice to properly address your issues

To answer for the 3rd time your circular posts on the same topic - Yes If he didn't use SDD to program the new fobs, most likely, and yes if he didn't have the OE key present if using SDD, appears unlikely.

 

Let is know how it goes

 

Well, it went poorly.

I don't know how to scan for DTCs, so that's something I will have to learn how to do and then try to decipher the Klingon generated.

I connected my battery maintainer for the duration of this activity.

I tried to program keys and consistently got key learning failed. I clicked the remote unlock button and clicked the green tick, and got key learning failed.

At some point, my dash also started saying e-diff unavailable and another warning message. I have no keys that will remote lock or unlock the car and only the OE key will allow the car to start when placed into the dock.

I am feeling pretty defeated right at this moment.

 

I should have mentioned that the fob the auto locksmith programmed stopped working to start the car just like the OE fob. I drove the car about 200 miles yesterday without issue, then today the new fob wouldn’t start the car.

thats why I decided to try to program the keys today…I have no keys that can lock or unlock the car, and only the OE fob works in the dock.

 

You NEED at least 40 amps of power from your aux source for SDD, a tiny 3-5 amp maintainer will never even come close. All those warnings are because of low battery voltage.
If your LEARN failed, you may have a faulty smart key. Sometimes the battery contact prongs are weak or corroded, you may need to shim and/or clean those contacts.
Also, since it failed, you may be without keys and no way to make the ones you tried work again. Maybe.

 

Yes, I purchased an Iota 55 Amp with the IQ4 module and had it connected. Maybe the warnings will go away next time I start the car. I started it to back it back into the garage, but the messages were still there.

You're saying the keys that used to work may not be useable any longer? That would kind of stink...

For some reason, the OE key continues to work in the dock. I have no idea why.

 

Maybe you lucked out and nothing was actually changed

 

one can hope.

any thoughts on what I should do next?

 

Suggest you 1st use Google search to find

Ids sdd-jlr manual 02 02-12. Once downloaded read and review SDD diagnostics. Section 3-45 has an example diagnostics session which will display all DTC’s associated with the issue. Come back to the forum when you have found the fault codes stored in your car.

 

OK, I think the attached is what you were asking about, Hafren. This shows some key verification and some failed programming attempts.

Lots of other messages that don't look too good, but the car runs great and had no warning codes before I trifled with it. Everything appears to work well. It is possible that my power supply was not connected well, leading to some of the error messages. It is also possible that my battery needs to be replaced. I have not yet located the manufacture date. Although the car only has 34k miles, it is 15 years old. I don't know the age of the battery.

Regards,
Dan

 

Also make sure you are using a heavy enough gauge wire for that connection. You can’t get enough juice through a thin wire. (I had that problem.)

 

To that point, I have ordered a 50A cable that looks like it will connect directly to my power supply. Should this be good? I am going to use my multimeter to check the voltage and amperage when I connect it up next time.

 

On a positive note, I started the car last night and drove it for a bit. All of the nasty warnings went away and it ran great. If I can figure out why it has forgotten two of its keys. I will be in a good place, I think.