I don't believe the cable you ordered will carry enough load when necessary. Please review the attached table of maximum cable lengths for various wire gauges used with Iota DLS power supplies. I originally had 12 ft cables for my Iota DLS-75 and it would not hold the minimum 12.5 volts during SDD use. So I cut the #10 gauge cables down to the maximum 2.5 ft recommended and it works perfectly now. For my cables, I simply purchased a set of jumper cables, cut off one end, and solder tinned the ends before connecting to the power supply. The cables in the picture of what you ordered appear much too thin to carry sufficient load.

 

Huh, that's surprising since it specifically says it is for 50 amp/600 volt connections. 10 AWG cable, but I guess it's a little longer than recommended at 1 meter/3.28 ft.

I think I will receive it and test it out, then go the jumper cable route if it can't deliver at least 40A to the battery connectors.

 

10 AWG is rated for 30 amps at 120 volts, producing 3600 watts.

3600 watts at 12 volts is 300 amps.
12 VDC at 30 amps is 360 watts.

Just a little info is all.

 

Thanks, CeeJay. Do I read that information correctly to infer that the cable should work for my purposes, which are 12VDC at 50 amps?

 

12 VDC at 50 amps requires 6 AWG copper, 4 AWG for aluminum. Longer than 100 feet requires another gauge heavier per every 100 feet increase.

 

powelld91, I now see that the cables you ordered are 10 gauge and 1 meter. For your Iota DLS-55, the recommended maximum length for 10 gauge is 2.5 feet. So if you cannot hold 12.5 volts, just cut the cables to only 2.5 feet and you should be good.
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You can monitor the voltage with an inexpensive voltmeter off eBay. I mounted one to my Iota power supply and it is comforting to check it before kicking off SDD's configuration file changes. The voltmeter's leads can be soldered to the small nuts on the + and - leads inside the Iota's case.
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Also, the Iota's output voltage can be adjusted. For this, a potentiometer (POT) is just behind a small slotted-rubber-covered hole in its case. The POT can be adjusted by putting a very small screwdriver through the hole and - just barely - turning it. It needs such a fine adjustment that it is almost difficult to get it on the desired voltage. Also, don't push on the POT as it is simply held upright by its soldered leads on the circuit board so it can bend over very easily.

 

So, I see that five views have transpired on my SDD session file. Anybody have any thoughts as to why my car would be forgetting its smart keys? I have two more blanks I can attempt to program, but it is not workable to have them just be forgotten after a couple of weeks time unexpectedly.

Thanks!

 

KurtC thanks for posting those wire lengths as I also have an Iota unit but it came with no cables at all. I made my own from heavy gauge jumper cable cables like what was posted above but was unaware of the cable length limitations.
Now I know!

I use a DC meter plugged into the power outlet in the console. Now I can monitor the cars voltage while sitting in the drivers seat and actually operating SDD. Way easier than jumping out and to the trunk to check the voltage. I recommend every XJ to run these plug in volt meters as they are cheap and as we know voltage is so important to all modern Jaguars.
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OK, I received two new 315MHz keys and tried to program them with SDD and they both failed.

Could it be because the OE key will only work in the dock? Does the programming use the working key to copy or does the car itself try to program the key?

I also don't see any DTCs associated with the Body Control Module, so hopefully the antennae are not all knackered.

Anybody have any thoughts?

Thanks
Dan

 

Did you delete all keys before you tried adding new ones? My experience with SDD and keys is with only one key you must first delete that one and then add your new keys back in one at a time. But it does state that in SDD when working on keys.

It would be much better if you could post screen shots of what your getting in SDD since that's such a huge subject with so many variations.
What do the icons in the upper right hand corner of the SDD screen look like? Battery symbol green? Exactly what error are you getting?

Can you fill us in on where you got the keys?
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Tell us, or provide a screen grab of the failure message(s)

Programming new keys involves erasing all existing stored keys then new security codes are generated and stored in the KVM & IPC(instrument cluster). Based on earlier posts I suspect your auto locksmith cloned your 1 working key to 2 new ones which could work passively but not actively in the dock. From a car security perspective it only had 1 key stored.
I suggest you run the SDD start authorization routine to verify this and check for any other start fault conditions. In SDD open a diagnosis session, select a symptom (electrical no start) and find start authorization in either tabs recommendations, extras or service functions. Capture the results and compare to the attached.

To best help provide all dtc's. A screen grab, PDF or just list - see example attached.

 

I also suspect "cloned" keys as hafren posted above. We have to understand that is a short cut and only done by after market lock smiths because it's quick and easy money. As posted above the problem is to the car you still only have one key. If any problems then ALL the keys will not work because to the car they are all identical.
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Be careful here. I ****ed up yesterday and SDD deleted both my remotes. I bought two blank remotes from aliexpress and was planning to add them to my XK 2007. I had two working keys and remotes, but wanted to add two more. My SDD is working perfectly (167/W10) Last week I replaced the ECU with a used one and programmed it to my car with the newest engine file downloaded from Jaguar. It is working fine - no issues at all. This boosted my self confidence a bit and I tried to add two more keys to my car. I followed the wizard to my best knowledge and was asked to place all keys around the gear shifter. It reported 2 programmed and 2 unprogrammed, but ready for programming. I was asked to place the first key in the slot and press the green button. Unfortunately I got the message "Could not learn" Everything was locked after that. I could not remove the key - it was stuck in the slot. Nothing worked and I had to disconnect the battery. After this none of the remotes worked any more. The transponders are still working so I can start the car., but remotes are disabled in the car. This is how the case is today - not sure if I have the guts to try this again, becayse I am afraid to disable the transponders too. I will post more when I know more ... I live in Norway so English is not my native language ... Cheers! John