XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Shock question

 
  #41  
Old 01-14-2019, 11:42 AM
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I heated the outside with a plumbers torch. Then took my press and clamped it down, used a breaker bar and the tools in the tool loan a kit from Auto Zone but nothing. It didn't budge. All I did was tear up more metal. I wish I could see one of these without a bushing in it. I just can't imagine it's a bushing part left in it.
 
  #42  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by robbing View Post
I heated the outside with a plumbers torch. Then took my press and clamped it down, used a breaker bar and the tools in the tool loan a kit from Auto Zone but nothing. It didn't budge. All I did was tear up more metal. I wish I could see one of these without a bushing in it. I just can't imagine it's a bushing part left in it.
Does this thread help you any?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ership-211261/
 
  #43  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasTraveler View Post
I appreciate it but that doesn't help. He did do his lower control arm but all that is shown is the inner. I'm in the process of doing my outer.(actually just ordered the inner as well this morning. If I'm doing this I might as well do all of them.

 
  #44  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:40 PM
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Now I'm starting to wonder if I have the wrong bushings. Everything I saw said these bushings but I looked on Amazon(got them delivered free same day) and the guys below that left a comment said it's not for the lower control arm in front. It's for the back. Even the Beck Arnley website says rear.

Amazon Amazon

Has anyone had any experience with this?
 
  #45  
Old 01-14-2019, 01:36 PM
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After looking at my numbers I've decided I'm just going to buy these control arms. For some reason when I ordered my bushings I put in 4 instead of 2. I never knew it until they arrived. So that's 100. I have to buy 2 new inner bushings so that's another 40-50 and now I have to buy one control arm after screwing one up so this route is cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-...00fc%7Ciid%3A1
 
  #46  
Old 01-15-2019, 11:39 AM
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Be sure to look at posts talking about purchasing Ford (T-Bird?) parts for the front end. I don't know if it relates to your task, but I understand many are direct replacments, without the 'Jaguar' price tag.

Vince

BTW, it would be helpful if you could fill out the signature section on this site with Year, Model. (Helps us help you) Also a rough location as seen up in the 'Joined' section, as you might find helpful folks near you that can help. Just sayin.......
 
  #47  
Old 01-15-2019, 12:24 PM
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LINCOLN LS parts? They are 90% Jaguar.

Don't thing T-Bird anything would fit.
 
  #48  
Old 01-15-2019, 01:47 PM
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There are some 2000s T-Bird suspension bits that were shared between the Lincoln LS and various Jags (SType, XJ, etc).
 
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  #49  
Old 01-20-2019, 04:30 PM
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I tried renting the strut spring compressor from Autozone. It's the one with a bolt and then two ends that tighten, you get two of them in a box. I have a problem though because it appears the cap on the top of the strut is too big and the bolts either hit it or are really tight on the sides. Wondering if anyone has used them before or if there is a better option?
 
  #50  
Old 01-20-2019, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by robbing View Post
I tried renting the strut spring compressor from Autozone. It's the one with a bolt and then two ends that tighten, you get two of them in a box. I have a problem though because it appears the cap on the top of the strut is too big and the bolts either hit it or are really tight on the sides. Wondering if anyone has used them before or if there is a better option?
That’s what I used, but you need two sets of them (4 total compressors) just to do one spring.
IIRC, start with 2, one on each side, with the long part of the threaded bolt toward the bottom of the strut (i.e. the nut toward the top), placing the ‘hooks’ as far apart as possible on the spring.
Tighten them down as far as you can, that will open up space in the coil on each end. now add the other two compressors 90 degrees from the existing ones, grabbing the coil as far apart as possible and crank them down.
Should be able to release the pressure on the end plates this way, and now you can replace the strut.
 
  #51  
Old 01-20-2019, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kj07xk View Post

That’s what I used, but you need two sets of them (4 total compressors) just to do one spring.
IIRC, start with 2, one on each side, with the long part of the threaded bolt toward the bottom of the strut (i.e. the nut toward the top), placing the ‘hooks’ as far apart as possible on the spring.
Tighten them down as far as you can, that will open up space in the coil on each end. now add the other two compressors 90 degrees from the existing ones, grabbing the coil as far apart as possible and crank them down.
Should be able to release the pressure on the end plates this way, and now you can replace the strut.
Ah perfect. I can see how that would work well. I think you mentioned previously that I would need two. No I understand what you're meaning by two. I appreciate the help.
 
  #52  
Old 01-22-2019, 09:21 AM
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Got the drivers side done. My only worry on that side is that I plugged the connector back in for the adaptive part and it didn't go fully in so I pulled it out to make sure it was straight. When I did the little red part of the connector stayed in the strut. I did it again and it looks like everything is good but I know it could be an issue.

On the passenger side- Ugh, I was taking everything off and when I was trying to push down the lower arm to get the strut out I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go down. I pushed pretty hard because it seems to have a spring feel to it. Well, surprise surprise there's a height sensor on that side. I'm not sure if I damaged it or not but there's a good chance. Everything is off of that side and I'm just in the process of putting the new strut in the spring. This is easier said than done. If your spring isn't symmetrical with pressure on all sides then it makes it off and hard to get the cap lined up with the bolt. I should be finished today and then it's off to get aligned. Hopefully I didn't screw too much up.
 
  #53  
Old 01-22-2019, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by robbing View Post
On the passenger side- Ugh, I was taking everything off and when I was trying to push down the lower arm to get the strut out I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go down. I pushed pretty hard because it seems to have a spring feel to it. Well, surprise surprise there's a height sensor on that side. I'm not sure if I damaged it or not but there's a good chance.
Oooo, you must not have read the procedure in the service manual, as it did point out the height sensor, and disconnecting it. Hope all is well.
 
  #54  
Old 01-23-2019, 03:24 AM
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Did you plug you strut into the harness first to check to see it isn't faulty before installing
 
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  #55  
Old 01-23-2019, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by steve_k_xk View Post
Did you plug you strut into the harness first to check to see it isn't faulty before installing
Just for my curiosity, if you did that, how would you know it was or was not faulty? It there something that tells you?
 
  #56  
Old 01-23-2019, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 110reef View Post
Just for my curiosity, if you did that, how would you know it was or was not faulty? It there something that tells you?
No, and the same thing as reef said. I have no clue what is supposed to happen if I do.


And to KJ. I used the manual on the drivers side. Noticed it said to disconnect ride height sensor but sense I didn't see one I didn't worry about it. On the passenger side I was dumb enough to think it was just the same so I just did the same process. LOL, there the ride height sensor was.
 
  #57  
Old 01-23-2019, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by robbing View Post
And to KJ. I used the manual on the drivers side. Noticed it said to disconnect ride height sensor but sense I didn't see one I didn't worry about it. On the passenger side I was dumb enough to think it was just the same so I just did the same process. LOL, there the ride height sensor was.
Kind of funny, as I did just the opposite. My right side shock went bad, so I replaced it first, and the sensor was there.
When I next did the left side (just for completeness), I couldn't find the sensor, and thought maybe it fell off!
 
  #58  
Old 01-23-2019, 11:35 AM
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Well this sucks pretty bad. I'm getting a CATS fault with the new struts. And now I see how I should have tested it. Do nothing more than set the new struts up on the engine area and plug them in. I've done that with my old ones and they work fine. ARGH! What a big mistake this was.
 
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  #59  
Old 01-23-2019, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by robbing View Post
Well this sucks pretty bad. I'm getting a CATS fault with the new struts. And now I see how I should have tested it. Do nothing more than set the new struts up on the engine area and plug them in. I've done that with my old ones and they work fine. ARGH! What a big mistake this was.
Both new struts trigger faults, or is just one of them bad?
 
  #60  
Old 01-23-2019, 01:56 PM
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Both give me a fault KJ. I went ahead and ordered some more. Surprisingly they're not easy to find, at least for a descent deal. Most places are out of them.
 

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