Hello guys,

I am having a lot of issues with the car that i can't solve nor the mechanic has given any valuable feedback.

Coolant:
I have a 2009 XKR, which i posted previously that it had a coolant leak, which i traced to a one bad hoes, however, that did not solve it entirely. the car still losing coolant (around 500 ML per week), its not much but it does lose coolant. the mechanic did a pressure test and nothing is leaking, so he's suspecting an internal leaking (which there are no signs at all, like no smoke, or coolant mixing with water, or water on spark plugs, etc). so am still trying to investigate that matter.

Acceleration:
Other than that, the car has a very bad acceleration, i mean i haven't driven an XKR before, but i doubt thats the performance i should expect (i tried to do a 0-100KM test to check, it did it in 8 and half seconds!!). whenever i push the pedal to the floor, the car feels like its shocking (high engine sounds and very little acceleration), if i pressed it slowly, the acceleration is somehow okay.

I have attached a live data report (on idle with engine on) maybe it can highlight if something is odd in the car (i think 2 of the O2 sensors are giving zero value), if someone can take a look and maybe can spot something?

Codes:
Regarding the codes its throwing on a scanner, the car is giving all these weird codes, i clear them, most of them go away, and after awhile another codes comes up (the one that is constant is the P2601 and U0405-8F which comes up after any attempt for a hard acceleration and car goes into RP (could the IC pump be the reason for such bad performance?), i have ordered the bosch 010 and should arrive within couple of weeks.
I have attached another report with some of the codes it came up before (after clearing most of them went away). I read somewhere, when weird codes comes up, do a hard reset or buy a new battery but the voltage is good (14.2), so am not whether i need a new battery or just the reset (i didnt do it so far coz i dont have the radio code).

I can use some guidance on where to look (i don't know the exact history of the car or how the previous owner has maintained it, it belonged to his daughter).

Appreciate the help and thanks in advance.

 

Clogged catalytic converters?

 

radio code in a 2009??

Too many codes to effectively decipher the root cause. In fact, I would start with a reset to see what we’re dealing with here.

 

You don't know about the battery as you're seeing only the alternator voltage.

The values at idle look OK except I have no idea what fuel system status 2 means - what a useless tool report (it's got a bunch of mad things, like injector pulses in seconds!).

 

^^. precisely.

 

The idea crossed my mind, and i purchased the cat converter cleaner thru the fuel. It did nothing. maybe the whole thing needs to come off and get properly cleaned, but i don't know for sure.

 

I didn't know no code is required on 2009. Thanks,

I will do the hard reset tonight, and will update you

 

If the hard reset didn't solve anything, i'll get the battery tested.

and the Obd scanner is not good, its Autel AP200. It worked fine the first couple of days, and now takes forever to connect and very slow.

 

How many miles on the car?

Focus on the P2601 code and ignore all the intermittent background crap. None of those should be flagging the check engine light or affecting performance.

The supercharger coolant pump is a common failure on our XKRs and a failing one would decrease performance.

Also a good idea to check your fuel trims to see if you are running lean/rich.

 

Great suggestion, whether right or wrong definitely a possibility. Many years ago had something similar, very sluggish acceleration but only under load. The catalytic converter had imploded internally and was clogged. No amount of cleaner would have rectified that situation. In my situation it was very apparent as there was also a rattle coming from the catalytic converter.

 

The car has 102K KM (60K miles) on it.

maybe change the fuel filter? Am not sure when it was last changed or were it ever changed before.

 

How did you clean it? did you take it out?
When the car is cold and i rev it a little bit (30 seconds after turning the engine on), black material does come out of the exhaust, not much but like drips splashed on the garage floor.

 

Was on my college Toyota, took to Midas and they replaced the catalytic converter. There was no fixing the guts!

 

btw, there is no such thing as “clean the cats”. you replace them.

 

In regard to the OP about coolant loss, first I think you meant water mixing with the oil, (not coolant)
500ml = 17oz a week is significant loss.
If coolant is getting into the combustion chamber the plugs will look like they have been steamed cleaned (because that is what is happening)
Have your mechanic do a cylinder leak down test (which should have already been advised) a pressure check isn't enough.
The leak down test will confirm the mechanical condition of the cylinders and remove that variable from the trouble shooting process.

 

that's normal, although, you might have more than usual of this crud passing through. the muffler usually catches most of it. it's a bit of oil sneaking past cold rings (or pushed out of the topside with PCV?), the combustion products, leftover moisture from condensation after the previous run and subsequent cooling, maybe some dust and filth getting sucked in through the EVAP system at startup when it purges vapor -- but mostly i think oil and water.

 

Moe the first thing on your acceleration is you catalytic converters is clogger you need to replace it. That will allow your engine to breath. It’s just like a clogged nose after you blow it real good and get the junk out you can breath again. Plus it’s deteriorating with pieces coming out

 

Moe on your sensors you don’t have any really bad ones The ones that jumped out at me were the oxygen control sensors change those out they are real easy I did them myself and they make a huge difference. When you change them make sure they seat all the way down and are not loose I put a small bead of heat resistant silicone on mine because the screw holes were not grabbing. Also I put a small zip tie on the sensor to the hose connection. Also on the one on the top of the manifold it has a return line that feeds to the radiator. That one is always loose put a zip tie there also. Thee sensors for 3 are under $200 usd about 70usd each

 

The problem it's not sold new in here, and will be very costly to purchase overseas (its original price + shipping) is too much. the other alternative is buying a used one from the scrap yard. I saw some video taking it off, sinking in water and other chemicals for a day and reinstall it. Maybe i can try this one first.

 

I went to a second mechanic and asked him to do it,

He didn't want to do the test, as there are no water signs on the spark nor any other signs of internal leaking.

I'll give him another visit next week and ask him to perform the test.