Starting engine after 4 months
#1
Starting engine after 4 months
My 2101 XK has been sitting, hooked up to a CTEK for 4 months.
Sadly, I entered a clinical trial that had some significant side-effects, but I am home now!!! I should say that daily I checked this forum, regardless of how bad I felt.
After 4 months, I'm concerned that any oil coating the engine valve train etc is now in the oil pan, and would like - if it makes sense - to crank the engine a few times WITHOUT it starting.
1. Is this really necessary?
2. I can't just pull the coil wire (I guess I'm dating myself)... is there some other way to crank the engine several times without it starting to get a little oil circulating through the engine, valve train, etc?
3. I've checked all the fluids, tire pressure, clock (it was not set to DST).
Best,
WRAIR
Sadly, I entered a clinical trial that had some significant side-effects, but I am home now!!! I should say that daily I checked this forum, regardless of how bad I felt.
After 4 months, I'm concerned that any oil coating the engine valve train etc is now in the oil pan, and would like - if it makes sense - to crank the engine a few times WITHOUT it starting.
1. Is this really necessary?
2. I can't just pull the coil wire (I guess I'm dating myself)... is there some other way to crank the engine several times without it starting to get a little oil circulating through the engine, valve train, etc?
3. I've checked all the fluids, tire pressure, clock (it was not set to DST).
Best,
WRAIR
#2
Good to see you back in the saddle.
There is one trick. The greatest wear is on the timing chain.
Compounded by the fact that the cam actuators will also have lost their prime.
Fortunately for us, the TC is accessible through the oil fill cap.
Spray some fresh oil on the visible chain and other things surrounding it.
You will become a manual pre-luber.
There is one trick. The greatest wear is on the timing chain.
Compounded by the fact that the cam actuators will also have lost their prime.
Fortunately for us, the TC is accessible through the oil fill cap.
Spray some fresh oil on the visible chain and other things surrounding it.
You will become a manual pre-luber.
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wrair (05-30-2017)
#3
I wouldn't sweat it. These engines are designed to run at 1000 rpm for almost a minute on cold startup to help get everything lubed through splash and pumping. I'd just let it do it's normal warm up cycle and once the idle settles down just take it easy for a mile or two for the trans and rear to sort themselves out. The engine will be tighter from sitting so no hooligan mode for a couple miles.
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wrair (05-30-2017)
#4
another option????
Thanks,
I can add a little oil thru the oil filler cap, and not worry, regardless.
But I didn't want to lead the witness;
What about pulling fuse F14, ignition coil in the engine fuse box for a few cranks? I gather that would keep the engine from starting without any resulting electrical damage? And get the oil primed.
Just checking all options. Maybe I'll be less ****. ☺
Thanks again,
WRAIR
I can add a little oil thru the oil filler cap, and not worry, regardless.
But I didn't want to lead the witness;
What about pulling fuse F14, ignition coil in the engine fuse box for a few cranks? I gather that would keep the engine from starting without any resulting electrical damage? And get the oil primed.
Just checking all options. Maybe I'll be less ****. ☺
Thanks again,
WRAIR
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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It doesn't all drain to the pan. A light coating of oil will stay on the internal engine parts, bearings, cylinder walls, etc for long time.....years.
Fire it up and don't worry, IMO.
But if you want to turn the engine on the starter to build oil pressure make sure to also disable the fuel injection system so you don't have raw fuel spraying into the cylinders which will actually wash away the coating of oil that has been there since the last time you ran the engine !
Cheers
DD
Fire it up and don't worry, IMO.
But if you want to turn the engine on the starter to build oil pressure make sure to also disable the fuel injection system so you don't have raw fuel spraying into the cylinders which will actually wash away the coating of oil that has been there since the last time you ran the engine !
Cheers
DD
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wrair (05-30-2017)
#6
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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I have witnessed first handed engines that have sat unwanted and unloved for three years without being looked at. There was as much residual oil on critical surfaces after three years as there would have been after three hours.
Cranking the engine without ignition may run the risk of flooding the cylinders with fuel.
Turn the key and start it up.
Cranking the engine without ignition may run the risk of flooding the cylinders with fuel.
Turn the key and start it up.
#7
Done! Started and runs like she did before my lapse.
Dear Q&C, Ranchero50, Doug, and Mikey, and any other interested readers!
I put a little oil on the small part of the chain visible thru the oil filler cap, and otherwise pressed on the brake and hit the start button.
Ruby ('her name') started right away, soon returned to idle, and otherwise acted as if I left her yesterday instead of 4 months ago.
I checked my black book*, which indicated oil change time. So I drove a few miles, and changed the oil/filter (obtained from my Jag dealership). Next, a quick wash - dust in the garage.... which settled on Ruby over 4 months.
Ruby and I are great and good, respectively!
Thanks everyone; appreciate the *guidance and explanations* for proceeding in a straightforward manner.
Best,
WRAIR
*see Click and Clack talk about a car record book: #1705: Book This, Dad - Car Talk - WNYC
I put a little oil on the small part of the chain visible thru the oil filler cap, and otherwise pressed on the brake and hit the start button.
Ruby ('her name') started right away, soon returned to idle, and otherwise acted as if I left her yesterday instead of 4 months ago.
I checked my black book*, which indicated oil change time. So I drove a few miles, and changed the oil/filter (obtained from my Jag dealership). Next, a quick wash - dust in the garage.... which settled on Ruby over 4 months.
Ruby and I are great and good, respectively!
Thanks everyone; appreciate the *guidance and explanations* for proceeding in a straightforward manner.
Best,
WRAIR
*see Click and Clack talk about a car record book: #1705: Book This, Dad - Car Talk - WNYC
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wrair (05-30-2017)
#10
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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I'm always amazed to read so many posts about people worrying needlessly over cars/bikes/boats, etc being stored for a few months.
Here on the the tundra of the frozen north most specialty vehicles, either winter or summer type, don't get used for six months or longer in the off season. I've never heard or seen of even one vehicle being damaged due to lubrication issues.
The main problem is gummed up fuel in small carburetor equipped engines, usually due to poor storage preparation.
Here on the the tundra of the frozen north most specialty vehicles, either winter or summer type, don't get used for six months or longer in the off season. I've never heard or seen of even one vehicle being damaged due to lubrication issues.
The main problem is gummed up fuel in small carburetor equipped engines, usually due to poor storage preparation.
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Cee Jay (06-02-2017)
#11