I think the steering wheel controls work via the yellow wire plugged in as I’ve noted in the picture…can’t help with A/C, sorry…

 

5. There is a volume control somewhere in the settings. I can make a screenshot if you like.

 

I activated a cricket GSM (not CDMA like Verizon, T-Mobile, not that this helps anyone) SIM card as a 4th line on my data plan and placed it into the SIM card tray thingy they gave us, and it seems to recognize the SIM card as the settings list it as an AT&T SIM (Cricket is a daughter company) although I have no service. On top of that, no AC controls either. Done quite a bit of fiddling around in the settings. I don't have the emergency flashers cable connected to the facia though.

//UPDATE -- Plugged in emergency flasher switch and it kicked everything into gear. Must require all plugs to be installed for everything to sync up and work properly. No idea. Still trying to get the system to recognize a SIM card though. Won't work with my Cricket/AT-T one still.

 

Another update - not sure if related to screen or speakers themselves.... but ended up having to go over the most disgusting washboards I may have ever seen today on my way to a beach - and now I don't have audio on the right side of the car. Only my left side. Super strange, but gonna pull the door card and make sure all connections are good. If they are good, will head over to the Android screen and see whats going on back there.

 

Got the same issue as you and saw your fix. Time to open up the console again Im afraid.

 

This same thing happened to you? Interesting! I was super annoyed to have to rip into the screen again but very thankful once it was done and I realized it wasn't my Amp or my actual wiring to the speakers.

For anyone not understanding context, it was the blue box on the back of the android screen that must have some sort of loose connection - as I held the box in my hand, I could hear the audio flick on and flick off on the right side of the car as I moved the box around. ended up just zip-tying the box in such a position that bumps in the road wouldn't jutter it and and such a position that the cords are connected firm.

 

I've finally given up on installing in my 2013 XK for now. I got everything working except the sound. Ordered an XF optical converter and only got sound in one speaker, but it loses sound after 2 minutes. I'm gonna have to map out the wiring and/or flash the optical converter somehow. OEM is back in, and the screen is working properly for some reason, but system still will randomly reset as before. It doesn't appear to be wiring because the new unit never lost power.

If anybody else has gotten one of these to work in a 2013 with the B-W system, please enlighten me.

JimR

 

Sounds like a broken cable/fault connection. Make sure that the optic cable doesn't get bend to far. Fiberoptic easily breaks.
​

 

I have noticed that about 85% of the time on HOT days, my screen will not play music. I have also noticed that during the time the screen IS correctly playing music - there are times where just simply throwing the car into reverse (reverse turns on the backup cam, which cuts audio) will completely turn off the audio for the rest of the entire car ride, and quite possibly the next 2-3 trips. Totally confused and have been for a minute - It's super easy to assume the head unit being from China just has an issue... because it probably does. It probably has an issue inside one of the 3 boxes ya gotta plugin to get the screen working correctly. I live in a very, very hot area and the insides of vehicles heating up to 140-150 is regular. Not sure if these units were designed to be able to withstand that kind of heat. Let's just say that it can withstand the heat - the music is still working, is the thing. Nothing has actually quite broke yet. All connections seem to be in circuit, nothing is off, except for when it turns off. The fact that it is turning on in the first place, and that I can hear music, is why I am not looking at physical connections inside of the 17 year old car. I know nothing is damaged - it totally has to be something inside of the unit. As I said in another thread, I will be replacing it with OEM to see what the behavior is like. I will report back.

 

Hi,

I am new here but have owned many Jag's over the years, 3 x xjs V12, XJ6, XJ Excutive, Damiler Soverign, and X-Type 2.5 and now just got the one I wanted. I was lucky I saw her on Autotrader and got first dib's bought her from someones car colection but they never got round to doing the bits she needed. She ran and drove great and body (apart from a blister on the drivers door I am having done) and leather are in good condition. The headinging was sagging, headlights needed rejovination, disc had some scoring but the main this was the infotainment system did not power on.

I read hear about options and as I am a nerd want new and better than the dated system it comes with, I read the historical trials an trubulations but thout I would go for it as I wanted front and rear camera's as well, so dropped the money on the 8 core 256gb android system. i went with black surround. It took some time to arrive but eventually got here. In the mean time I found the old system was not plugged in and when I did had the 'Palmyera' errors screen showing no matter the work around could not get past it so now its on a shelf.

Well first off the new systems has zero instructions just the unit and cables so your left to figure it out, I found the linked videos here. Some of the connetions are obvious but its interest to work out which most/canbus conenctor to use but I did so it was nice getting sound aand air con controls. It integrated with the sterring wheel controls, however got an airbag warning as this is linked into the hazards. Another issue was the circuit board on the hazard warning light whihc is part of the surround was broken but the vendor posted a replacement so had to wait on that.

ONce I got most of the unit wired and calbe for the USB, GPS etc routed it was time for the camera's and this was a job as the system has a 360 camera system. First I ddi the boot camera. I drill a 6mm hole next to the boot release button as the camera cables o nthis are fine cables, I fed it through be release the silver strip withthe button and number plates lights in (4 bolts) this allow me to route into the bot lid, down the edge of the boot glass and a jump to the head liner and down that edge to the front pillar. The rest is hidden down the edge of the door under the dedal area and into the center console. The fronr camera is a pain, you need what I call the flexible grabbing tool, I went out the passenger side for this, been the wing and body under plastic coverings and along the edge of the eine bay, the fun came getting in front of the rads/intercooler. I managed to find a gap and leverage enough space to get it through and had to work with the grab throgu hthe front grill to move the cable. I think the car gods were on my side as I manged to route and get it connected to the camera with out having to remove anything.

The side cameras go into the front pillars, the kit provided a hole cutter but to do so you have to cut the lining covering the pillar was nerve wracking but easy to do. The cables were easy to route, however after install realised the camers were on the wrong sides but easy to sort and the routing followed the rear and front camers for the respective sides.

My new board arrived this week so changed it out and conencted it up but the harzards would not flash, yhe vendor advised to really tighten the screws and try agai nwhihc I have done and that now works. I have been using the system in the mean time and all heater controls, sound etc works perfectly, putting in revers activates the rear camera and I can check front and sides when manovering. It auto dims when the lights come on and I can configure car contraols like door locking when I set off. So the tech has come along way. i know its fitted but can do a video of it if anyone is interested.

 

My emergency lights don’t come on also, what was the exact fix you did?

 

I'd been interesting to see a full review of the 360 camera system. How did you mount it? How did you make the holes etc.

Still debating with myself if I want to go that route.

 

So firstly my board was damage but got the replacement however when I screwed the new board on I was gentle as did not want to damage but in doing so it prevented the button from pressing on the microswitch. I hand to 'murder' them down very tight. Also you can get a fine flatblad inbetween the button and microswitch to press it so I know the board worked as my hazard lit up when I tried that

 

Sean , do you have a link to your unit from your vender? I bought one from TPXINXIN and I didn't like the way the interface was, it seemed different than your plus it would not let me make any changes on the factory settings that you were able to.
I am sending it back.

 

I bought the 360 cameras for the unit and have not installed it yet, I might return the unit and get one from another vender, but my plan was to go through the doors and mount the side cameras under the mirrors. The problem I see is fishing the wire through the door wiring gromet and I haven't figure out how to remove the lower kick panel to see what kind of access I have to the wiring into the door.

 

imo, buy †his one from the forum marketplace. I know and trust the seller and his has more working functions than mine:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/283810

 

I did not have a rear camera previously and as the camera wires and connectors on this system are small I used a drill 6mm or less for the hole in the boot i nthe plastic that one is easy to do. For thew ones in the pillars the kit acutally comes wiht the hole cutter but this was a concern for me as you can imagine you cannot just bang it on and cut as the material will get caught in it and it wil lbe ripped off. So I measured about 7cm from the top of the pillar and marked a point where I would drill, I used a sharp craft knife to cust through the material then driller a pilot hole. I switch to the cutter and sunk in the drill stopping short of the material (was very careful and slow) I then used a fine tipped marker to draw around the cutter and then removed it. Back to the craft knife and cutting the material again slow and careful to expose the plastic underneath. Then back to the cutter to finally make the hole. The side cameras have a gromet that you insert and then put the camera in. All the cables hide behind the pillars, from the rear it goes behind the covers that hold i nthe head liner there is loads of room. I will try to get a video done. its nice at the touch of a button seeing where the fron and rear of the car is for parking and on the sides I just need to link it to a recording device would be nice for driving having this as well. Just need to figure it out in the settings

 

FINALLY !!! I purchased a replacement Tesla style head unit and performed the install with the same results of no sound initially. I finally tracked the reason to the signal processor in the trunk. I added an additional optical loop to the cable entering the lower unit and voila!! Got the factory interface, Apple Carplay if I want it, and added the CarWebGuru startup screen. I'm currently using my iphone as a wifi hotspot but will soon have a sim card with a data only plan so my system just WORKS no matter what phone I have. I'm also planning to replace the speakers with more full and responsive gear, and addressing a few additional repairs (minor oil and coolant leaks). Pictures before the end of the year!

Thank you all very much for your thoughtful suggestions and encouragement.

 

Can you be more specific please? Pictures of where you added the loop and an understanding of which “blue box” you have. Thanks.

 

I'm running the original optical processor that came with the headunit. The XF box is wasted money for me.
Below is where I placed the loop.