Tire pressure monitoring system
The monitoring system shows and tells me to check my tire pressures. The car symbol shows each of the four tires being the culprit if you wait a while while it moves the red symbol around to one tire or the other.
I checked the tires and made sure they complied with the pressure shown for the tires in the door sill. Been through this procedure twice on checking tire pressure.
This moring with cold tires I checked the tire pressures and made sure they were within a nats *** of the correct pressure. Drove the car and all was well for ???? maybe ten miles whereupon the car/tire symbol showed a TPMS problem and told me to check my tire pressures.
Anybody know of a fix other than randomly changing tire/wheel sensors. OR can I just pull a fuse and get rid of that light/caution forever?
It's more of a irritant to me than anything.....the symbol of the car/tires etc.
I checked the tires and made sure they complied with the pressure shown for the tires in the door sill. Been through this procedure twice on checking tire pressure.
This moring with cold tires I checked the tire pressures and made sure they were within a nats *** of the correct pressure. Drove the car and all was well for ???? maybe ten miles whereupon the car/tire symbol showed a TPMS problem and told me to check my tire pressures.
Anybody know of a fix other than randomly changing tire/wheel sensors. OR can I just pull a fuse and get rid of that light/caution forever?
It's more of a irritant to me than anything.....the symbol of the car/tires etc.
According to another post, I can't remember where....
Turn ignition off and deflate tires at least by 25%
Turn ignition on and inflate tires to correct pressure
Let it settle for a couple of days, and it should all go good.
The advice was given based on the the following facts:
1. The TPMS system recognizes a variation of 25% of the original pressure, so if it gets confused, it expects you to reinflate by 25%. This is the type of value you may expect from a puncture.
2. If you do it with the ignition off, it doesn't recognize the change in value, computers are off.....
So skeptically, I tried it as a last resort... and remarkably, it worked... has to be worth a try
Neil
Turn ignition off and deflate tires at least by 25%
Turn ignition on and inflate tires to correct pressure
Let it settle for a couple of days, and it should all go good.
The advice was given based on the the following facts:
1. The TPMS system recognizes a variation of 25% of the original pressure, so if it gets confused, it expects you to reinflate by 25%. This is the type of value you may expect from a puncture.
2. If you do it with the ignition off, it doesn't recognize the change in value, computers are off.....
So skeptically, I tried it as a last resort... and remarkably, it worked... has to be worth a try
Neil
I'll give that a shot Neil Corner. I also read another thread where they were talking about disabling the antenna by pulling a fuse in the back seat area. I noticed that the Tire Pressure Monitor fuse exists there also. I might try that also.
My antenna makes a ratcheting sound going down and up and can be heard from across the street. So I'm going to pull that antenna fuse while I'm back there til I fix the ratcheting antenna problem.
My second day with my used 2007 XK so I'm not right into fixing things for a few weeks til I get comfortable with this car. I'm going to buy one of those big buck shop manuals sometime in the near future so I won't have to ask these type question too much in the future, although the Owners Manual that came with the car is very helpful.
Thank you for the reply.
My antenna makes a ratcheting sound going down and up and can be heard from across the street. So I'm going to pull that antenna fuse while I'm back there til I fix the ratcheting antenna problem.
My second day with my used 2007 XK so I'm not right into fixing things for a few weeks til I get comfortable with this car. I'm going to buy one of those big buck shop manuals sometime in the near future so I won't have to ask these type question too much in the future, although the Owners Manual that came with the car is very helpful.
Thank you for the reply.
Pulling the TPMS fuse in the rear compartment was a not so good idea. Pulling that fuse results in a very large caution triangle being displayed in place of the car symbol on the display.
Reinstalled said fuse.
Pulled the aerial (antenna) fuse to disable my ratcheting antenna while there. No more ratchiting antenna now. Fix at a later day.
Drove the car to see if the tire monitoring had improved. Not so. BUT I also had a airbag symbol displayed that would not go away (mentioned in another thread by me) and THAT sucker has gone south. No more yellow airbag caution symbol. Reason ???? No idea why. Probably will return at a later day. The two fuses I had pulled had zip to do with the airbag caution light as far as I know. I have no wiring schematics to prove that one way or the other. Gotta buy a proper shop manual.
Thanks for the reply Mosesbot. I have to work this out somehow without a dealer if possible. That tire/car display is bothersome. Does not stay on all the time. Comes and goes and stays on for longer periods of time that when it's off.
Reinstalled said fuse.
Pulled the aerial (antenna) fuse to disable my ratcheting antenna while there. No more ratchiting antenna now. Fix at a later day.
Drove the car to see if the tire monitoring had improved. Not so. BUT I also had a airbag symbol displayed that would not go away (mentioned in another thread by me) and THAT sucker has gone south. No more yellow airbag caution symbol. Reason ???? No idea why. Probably will return at a later day. The two fuses I had pulled had zip to do with the airbag caution light as far as I know. I have no wiring schematics to prove that one way or the other. Gotta buy a proper shop manual.
Thanks for the reply Mosesbot. I have to work this out somehow without a dealer if possible. That tire/car display is bothersome. Does not stay on all the time. Comes and goes and stays on for longer periods of time that when it's off.
I went for a 3am ride this morning. This problem seems intermittent. The display shows the low tire display a good deal of the time. Then after restarting the car and driving it I noticed the fault/display of the low tires stayed off for the longest time. So it might be some faulty connection in the monitor wiring or ??? sender/transmitter unit etc. Gotta download the wiring diagrams for this car in the near future.
Well I think you will find it is a confused system, not a fault. Try the deflation ignition off, then inflation ignition on to the right pressure. Removing fuses gives a permanent warning instead... even more irritating
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I'll try what you say Neil Corner.
The workshop manual shows the sensors inside the tires/wheel assys............two antenna, one on the front left and one of the front rear side of the car under the splash guards...............the monitor located behind the rear seat back rest...................and the reciever located under the floor console (uggggh!).
Maybe tomorrow I can do what you suggested with the tire pressures. My problem with the fail indicator comes and goes. It stayed off for a longer than normal period this morning when I drove the car. Thank you.
The workshop manual shows the sensors inside the tires/wheel assys............two antenna, one on the front left and one of the front rear side of the car under the splash guards...............the monitor located behind the rear seat back rest...................and the reciever located under the floor console (uggggh!).
Maybe tomorrow I can do what you suggested with the tire pressures. My problem with the fail indicator comes and goes. It stayed off for a longer than normal period this morning when I drove the car. Thank you.
Hailers, I have had the same problem in my 2007 XKR. It started last summer then went away this past winter after I had dealer in FW look at it. They simply said "no fault codes so no idea. let us know if it comes back." Based on the intermittent nature of the problem, it never seems to store codes and came back more frequently this summer. I really also question if something to do with hot Texas summers. Anyway, I took it back and paid for the dealer to drop the front bumper as I had read the wiring harness in a few model years is not really placed well and tends to scrape and chafe on the metal under the number. Originally only stuck in place with paper tape. They told me there was nothing there to correct. I dropped the front wheel splash guards myself and traced the harness as far as I could and confirmed their findings...except....there were actually clips now holding the harness in place. I really doubt they put them there but????? Anyway, after getting everything together again, it seemed to go away for a week...now back. They (dealer) tell me the only thing they can do is replace the TPMS module and "hope" for a fix. There appears to be no reset program they can do. It is maddening watching as you drive and the care telling you that each tire is flat (one at a time), then all clears and is good....and no fault codes stored!!!
By any chance, have you tried Neil's suggested fix? I really want to know if that worked for you as it seems an easy try but would be nice for some confirmation.
Feel free to send me a PM and I will reply as we are both in FW and may have to share some other car stories, etc.
On a last note, since this car is quite the rolling computer...has anyone with this problem just disconnected the module and then reconnected....trying a sort of hard reboot? Seems to be what the dealer has done int he past for other issues and told me to do before worrying about anything.
By any chance, have you tried Neil's suggested fix? I really want to know if that worked for you as it seems an easy try but would be nice for some confirmation.
Feel free to send me a PM and I will reply as we are both in FW and may have to share some other car stories, etc.
On a last note, since this car is quite the rolling computer...has anyone with this problem just disconnected the module and then reconnected....trying a sort of hard reboot? Seems to be what the dealer has done int he past for other issues and told me to do before worrying about anything.
Forgot a question for Neil Corner. Neil...if you drop the pressure by 25%, don't you then have to drive the car for the TPMS system to "turn on" and monitor? I thought it only monitored when rolling? Something to do with centrifugal forces turing on the sending units inside each tire. I they stayed on all the time, wouldn't that really drop battery life? I think they are only supposed to last 50K miles and was my first concern until ALL tires started showing the problem. Highly unlikely that ALL are low battery at the same time.
I'm at the point of almost being a happy camper. The fault/image rarely comes on the last few days and I'm hoping it will get better just like the Air Bag Caution light has finally gone away (came on during left or right turns........restart the car and drive in a straight line for tens of miles and would not come on....until you turned left or right hard).
I bought a week long subscription from TOPIx - TOPIx
And am printing out the whole workshop/electrical manuals while watching the tv. Thirty buck subscription for a weeks usage. The Tires and Wheels section of the manual has about ten plus pages of troubleshooting the Tire Pressure Monitoring System that I'll read someday if the problem persists.
I don't quite understand how it works. You have what THEY call sensors in each wheel...............then the outfit in the wheel well they alternatly call a Initiator in the wiring diagrams but call an Antenna in the trouble shooting section........which is hard wired to the Module-Tyre pressure Monitoring System by twisted pairs of wires from each 'antenna". And they show a mux bus leaving the Monitor going to the display???
But there is another item in the system called Reciever-tyre-Pressure monitoring wired to the Monitor who's function in life escapes me right now. Has one power wire going to it, one gnd wire and one wire going to the Monitor. The Monitor in the back seat backrest. The RECIEVER is located just to the right of the drivers seat under the console.
I really should try the Neil Corner method but what with the warning display not coming on nearly as much as before, I just cross my fingers for another week or less.
There was a trouble shooting bulletin in the factory manual I'm downloading that mentioned trying to add something like an additional three lbs of air to each tire and seeing what happens.
And yes, my display will show say my front left tire being low...........then maybe the right rear and sometimes all four with red wheels in the display. Getting much better in the last week though and migh disappear through magic and fairy dust.
I bought a week long subscription from TOPIx - TOPIx
And am printing out the whole workshop/electrical manuals while watching the tv. Thirty buck subscription for a weeks usage. The Tires and Wheels section of the manual has about ten plus pages of troubleshooting the Tire Pressure Monitoring System that I'll read someday if the problem persists.
I don't quite understand how it works. You have what THEY call sensors in each wheel...............then the outfit in the wheel well they alternatly call a Initiator in the wiring diagrams but call an Antenna in the trouble shooting section........which is hard wired to the Module-Tyre pressure Monitoring System by twisted pairs of wires from each 'antenna". And they show a mux bus leaving the Monitor going to the display???
But there is another item in the system called Reciever-tyre-Pressure monitoring wired to the Monitor who's function in life escapes me right now. Has one power wire going to it, one gnd wire and one wire going to the Monitor. The Monitor in the back seat backrest. The RECIEVER is located just to the right of the drivers seat under the console.
I really should try the Neil Corner method but what with the warning display not coming on nearly as much as before, I just cross my fingers for another week or less.
There was a trouble shooting bulletin in the factory manual I'm downloading that mentioned trying to add something like an additional three lbs of air to each tire and seeing what happens.
And yes, my display will show say my front left tire being low...........then maybe the right rear and sometimes all four with red wheels in the display. Getting much better in the last week though and migh disappear through magic and fairy dust.
Just for fun I attach two jpg. One is a written description of how the system works and the second jpg shows the items involved.
So the module in the rear seat area is hard wired to each of the four Initiators in the fender wells. Those Initiators transmit to the sensors in teh wheels which in turn send a signal to the reciever (unit next to your right leg and under the console). Then the reciever which is hard wired to the Module sends the information to the module which in turn sends a signal via the mux bus to the display.
Does not solve any problems knowing this but it always helps to know how stuff works when your working on it.
Jpgs out of the shop manual. Hope they're readable.
So the module in the rear seat area is hard wired to each of the four Initiators in the fender wells. Those Initiators transmit to the sensors in teh wheels which in turn send a signal to the reciever (unit next to your right leg and under the console). Then the reciever which is hard wired to the Module sends the information to the module which in turn sends a signal via the mux bus to the display.
Does not solve any problems knowing this but it always helps to know how stuff works when your working on it.
Jpgs out of the shop manual. Hope they're readable.
TPMS is a major annoyance and a costly product to service and repair.
Big easy money for service centers and tire shops.
Although I have not spoken to Jag owners that have done this, there are two common fixes discussed on other forums. The first and most popular is to remove the TMPS sensors from the tires, and install all 4 inside your spare. Set the pressure and your done. If the Jag identifies the tire by location, then it could be a bigger pain, as you would need to relocate the antennas (Or buy 4 new at $11 each) to the trunk area. If it is just a singular system (common alert regardless of tire location) it is very simple because the rear antenna picks up all 4.
The second what we called a "pipe bomb" where you take 4 or 6 inch PVC thickwall, put the sensors inside, drill and mount a valvestem, and seal the ends... Same principle... pump it up, tuck it away in your trunk, and yer done.
food for thought...
Vince
Big easy money for service centers and tire shops.
Although I have not spoken to Jag owners that have done this, there are two common fixes discussed on other forums. The first and most popular is to remove the TMPS sensors from the tires, and install all 4 inside your spare. Set the pressure and your done. If the Jag identifies the tire by location, then it could be a bigger pain, as you would need to relocate the antennas (Or buy 4 new at $11 each) to the trunk area. If it is just a singular system (common alert regardless of tire location) it is very simple because the rear antenna picks up all 4.
The second what we called a "pipe bomb" where you take 4 or 6 inch PVC thickwall, put the sensors inside, drill and mount a valvestem, and seal the ends... Same principle... pump it up, tuck it away in your trunk, and yer done.
food for thought...
Vince
Hmmm. Interesting. For now I'll just wait it out for another week to see how much better it might get.
This is a 2007 I bought a couple of weeks ago and the tires look brand new. So I've no idea if they replaced the tire sensors or not when the new tires were put on. They say on the net that the sensors/batteys should be changed out in about five years. So that got me wondering a bit. Let's see.......demount all the tires.........remove the present sensors and replace, at a cost of????? A bit of money.
And GTWBOX..............the section of the manual that deals with the tire pressure sensors also explains that the monitor sends a signal to the sensors even at night when the car has not been running/driven. I'll paste what I saw in the manual later concering that aspect.
This is a 2007 I bought a couple of weeks ago and the tires look brand new. So I've no idea if they replaced the tire sensors or not when the new tires were put on. They say on the net that the sensors/batteys should be changed out in about five years. So that got me wondering a bit. Let's see.......demount all the tires.........remove the present sensors and replace, at a cost of????? A bit of money.
And GTWBOX..............the section of the manual that deals with the tire pressure sensors also explains that the monitor sends a signal to the sensors even at night when the car has not been running/driven. I'll paste what I saw in the manual later concering that aspect.
Last edited by Hailers; Aug 17, 2012 at 02:02 PM.
You can pretty much figure they did not replace the sensors..... Just not a normal process in tire replacements (unless you maybe have aftermarket rims). Also nearly all TPMS batteries are considered to last closer to 10 years, not 5.
Not sure what Jag charges for new sensors but you should be able to get aftermarket for about $40 each.
Lexus/Toyota wanted $110 per sensor, and I bought eight perfectly good aftermarket units for $30ea off ebay about 2 years ago. I suspect with a little research, similar savings can be had for a Jag?
V
Not sure what Jag charges for new sensors but you should be able to get aftermarket for about $40 each.
Lexus/Toyota wanted $110 per sensor, and I bought eight perfectly good aftermarket units for $30ea off ebay about 2 years ago. I suspect with a little research, similar savings can be had for a Jag?
V
Neil Corner, my hero of heros. I tried what you mentioned and it worked. After trying it I drove on the interstate for sixty miles with good results.
I varied the procedure a bit. I idled the car. Depleted each wheel down to 18 psi, one at a time and refilled them to the 30psi and 33psi called for in the door sticker.
The light did come on once for maybe a full minute, but I drove forty miles after that on all sorts of washboard road conditons to smooth as a babys bottom roads and it never came on again. This vs the forty or fifty mile run I made before this procedure and the light staying on as much as being off.
So I'd recommend this procedure to anybody who has the Check Tire Pressure light problem coming and going on your car. Neil Corner's procedure works or worked for me anyway.
And I did run the car up over the century mark to see if that effected the light and it didn't.
Next I'll start a thead dealing with things that should be different on this car. Like no blankety blank gauges of any sort whatsoever. I don't count idiot lights. Real good car overall though. Just some small gripes.
I varied the procedure a bit. I idled the car. Depleted each wheel down to 18 psi, one at a time and refilled them to the 30psi and 33psi called for in the door sticker.
The light did come on once for maybe a full minute, but I drove forty miles after that on all sorts of washboard road conditons to smooth as a babys bottom roads and it never came on again. This vs the forty or fifty mile run I made before this procedure and the light staying on as much as being off.
So I'd recommend this procedure to anybody who has the Check Tire Pressure light problem coming and going on your car. Neil Corner's procedure works or worked for me anyway.
And I did run the car up over the century mark to see if that effected the light and it didn't.
Next I'll start a thead dealing with things that should be different on this car. Like no blankety blank gauges of any sort whatsoever. I don't count idiot lights. Real good car overall though. Just some small gripes.
Last edited by Hailers; Aug 19, 2012 at 05:14 PM.
HAILERS-So glad the procedure worked for you. I tried on Saturday and then drove around Fort Worth. All lights came one after I restarted the car (as they should) and then I filled each tire back up to the required 30/33 from the 20 I had dropped them to. Of note I dropped the pressures while the car was off. Then, after turning car back on, the lights went off one by one as pressures restored. I drove away happy at first but lights recurred later in the day while on Hwy. Hmmmmm How long did you let the car sit with the tires deflated prior to turing on and pressuring back up? When I turned mine back on, it properly detected the low four tires immediately.
NEAL CORNER-I wonder...do you know if the car should just have been in the ACC position and not started all the way? Wonder if that made a difference. Also, HAILERS dropped only a little farther than I did (to 18 instead of my 20psi) but I am certainly willing to try this procedure again if those two points may be relevant.
I guess the bottom line is I really want to avoid TPMS module replacement if it can just be "retrained".
NEAL CORNER-I wonder...do you know if the car should just have been in the ACC position and not started all the way? Wonder if that made a difference. Also, HAILERS dropped only a little farther than I did (to 18 instead of my 20psi) but I am certainly willing to try this procedure again if those two points may be relevant.
I guess the bottom line is I really want to avoid TPMS module replacement if it can just be "retrained".
I did one tire at a time and the car was idling all the time.
I went to the left front and let the air out down to approx 18 psi and then refilled it to 30 psi in the next few minutes then did the rest of the tires in the same manner. Except I think it's 33 psi for the rear tires.
I don't know if car on or car off matters or not. Seems in one of the jpgs I attached it indicates that after you retire for the day the pressure sensors are interrogated every 13 hrs even with the key out/away from the car. The last couple of sentences of one of those jpgs I attached above indicates that.
I never took a look at the display when doing this so I can't relate to that.
I'd guess that the monitor isn't the problem after seeing the results of what I did. There's nothing I did that was related to the monitor (no plugs pulled, wiggled etc is what I mean) and the result was dramatic compared to a drive I did in the same morning prior to the deflating of the tires.
I'm just gusessing it had something to do with the air coming and going in and out of the pressure sensors themselves. What I don't know but that's my guess. Mabe with the key on means that as the pressure was going down they were darn right busy transmitting to the reciever that they were losing pressure and then when I added pressure they were real busy again transmitting to the reciever that the pressure was changing again. There must have been much more transmitting by the pressure sensors compared to "normal" and I suspect that had something to do with it. Mabe. Just a guess.
Just to remind you........the light did come back on after the procedure but went off a minute later and never came back on, quite a improvement imho. I more or less drove in a circle using Loop 820........then taking I30 towards Weatherford......doing a turnaround well before Weatherford and then taking I-20 back toward Ft Worth and then getting on Loop 820 again and did this long circle drive three or four times til I had over 60 miles on the car. Enough to satisfy me that this procedure is worth doing if someone had that darn light coming and going all the time while driving.
Days ago I tried the Service Bulletin that suggested adding three lbs to all the tires and having a go at it again. This didn't do much of anything for me.
I'm happy to know that the pressure sensors are good for more than the five yrs I thought they were good for.
GWTBOX............I'd give it another try. The 18psi low figure is just what I came up with during my first deflation. I was just trying to get some figure under 20 psi without defating too low where I might get into trouble with too flat a tire seperating from the rim blah, blah, blah.
I went to the left front and let the air out down to approx 18 psi and then refilled it to 30 psi in the next few minutes then did the rest of the tires in the same manner. Except I think it's 33 psi for the rear tires.
I don't know if car on or car off matters or not. Seems in one of the jpgs I attached it indicates that after you retire for the day the pressure sensors are interrogated every 13 hrs even with the key out/away from the car. The last couple of sentences of one of those jpgs I attached above indicates that.
I never took a look at the display when doing this so I can't relate to that.
I'd guess that the monitor isn't the problem after seeing the results of what I did. There's nothing I did that was related to the monitor (no plugs pulled, wiggled etc is what I mean) and the result was dramatic compared to a drive I did in the same morning prior to the deflating of the tires.
I'm just gusessing it had something to do with the air coming and going in and out of the pressure sensors themselves. What I don't know but that's my guess. Mabe with the key on means that as the pressure was going down they were darn right busy transmitting to the reciever that they were losing pressure and then when I added pressure they were real busy again transmitting to the reciever that the pressure was changing again. There must have been much more transmitting by the pressure sensors compared to "normal" and I suspect that had something to do with it. Mabe. Just a guess.
Just to remind you........the light did come back on after the procedure but went off a minute later and never came back on, quite a improvement imho. I more or less drove in a circle using Loop 820........then taking I30 towards Weatherford......doing a turnaround well before Weatherford and then taking I-20 back toward Ft Worth and then getting on Loop 820 again and did this long circle drive three or four times til I had over 60 miles on the car. Enough to satisfy me that this procedure is worth doing if someone had that darn light coming and going all the time while driving.
Days ago I tried the Service Bulletin that suggested adding three lbs to all the tires and having a go at it again. This didn't do much of anything for me.
I'm happy to know that the pressure sensors are good for more than the five yrs I thought they were good for.
GWTBOX............I'd give it another try. The 18psi low figure is just what I came up with during my first deflation. I was just trying to get some figure under 20 psi without defating too low where I might get into trouble with too flat a tire seperating from the rim blah, blah, blah.
Last edited by Hailers; Aug 20, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
Ignore me. I went for my first ride today a couple of hrs ago. Tire warning came on within a block. Drove ten miles still bad.
Went home. Deflated each tire one at a time to 16psi with 'key' off. Reinflated front to 30 psi and rear to 33 psi. Went for a ride. Light came on after a block or so. Went home and checked the tire pressures. All good.
Time to go get fast food. The light did not come on at all. Drove up the interstate to the Aledo cut off and returned. No tire waring light.
Did get the airbag caution though. Got rid of that on the way back from Aledo. Pulled to the side of the road and turned car off. Then drove home. No airbag caution light. I'm not worried about this one anymore since I talked to the state inspection man when getting another car inspected today and he said the only light he looks at is the engine check light.
So common sense says............get up each morning. Deflate all tires and reinflate and have a good day driving with no tire warning light. kidding
Went home. Deflated each tire one at a time to 16psi with 'key' off. Reinflated front to 30 psi and rear to 33 psi. Went for a ride. Light came on after a block or so. Went home and checked the tire pressures. All good.
Time to go get fast food. The light did not come on at all. Drove up the interstate to the Aledo cut off and returned. No tire waring light.
Did get the airbag caution though. Got rid of that on the way back from Aledo. Pulled to the side of the road and turned car off. Then drove home. No airbag caution light. I'm not worried about this one anymore since I talked to the state inspection man when getting another car inspected today and he said the only light he looks at is the engine check light.
So common sense says............get up each morning. Deflate all tires and reinflate and have a good day driving with no tire warning light. kidding
This morning the Tire Low Pressure caution has returned to its normal Sorry state. Meaning it comes and goes and the red indicator indicated all four tires at some point in time during the drive. Not happy. Gonna have to rethink this and or buy a Scanner that can read Jaguar codes for the Low Tire Pressure condition.
In the meantime..............a piece of black duct tape approx 2 inches square to cover it up.
There's so many things that could have been done with the dispaly screens. They could have shown oil and water pressure. They could have shown fault conditons when the fault occured and saved it. Coulda, woulda shoulda.
There's no reason to have to connect a scanner to the port when the tech exists to have the data displayed on the screens.
Other than that I do like the car.
The TPSM must be a Joan Claybrook type creation.
In the meantime..............a piece of black duct tape approx 2 inches square to cover it up.
There's so many things that could have been done with the dispaly screens. They could have shown oil and water pressure. They could have shown fault conditons when the fault occured and saved it. Coulda, woulda shoulda.
There's no reason to have to connect a scanner to the port when the tech exists to have the data displayed on the screens.
Other than that I do like the car.
The TPSM must be a Joan Claybrook type creation.







